Question about Gateway FPD 1730 17" Flat Panel LCD Monitor

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Inverter Board location---

The first device the 120 Volt power cord connects or terminates, is this the Inverter Board?

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  • tobacmon Feb 23, 2008

    I was thinking if I follow my 120 volt plug into the back of my LCD—I thought this is or would be where the inverter would be. I know what a connector is I am talking of the actual entire board. Please explain and thanks for the help.

    Just a note I have 3 sections of boards in the back of my LCD—1-- Where my 120volt power feed, 2-middle of screen, and then 1 more. Which are you speaking of the middle board—any scene shot?

  • tobacmon Feb 23, 2008

    Yes it has helped-- I appreciate this--Do you know where I might fine one for the best price?



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No, that is just the connector. The inverter board is inside the LCD on an elongated printed circuit board. Its input would be pure DC as opposed to AC from the 120 mains. Its function is to produce high frequency/high voltage to supply the Cold Cathode Florescent Lamp(s) which provide the backlight illumination of the LCD panel.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Feb 23, 2008

    Hi again,

    My compliments that you have gone as far as checking the inside of the monitor.

    Chances are the board where the 120 leads to would be the power supply board.

    Most inverters are elongated printed circuit boards with small transformers for the high freq/high voltage. Below are images of inverters.

    To my understanding, a most Gateway models uses either an LG708G or an LG708K. The inverter itself was manufactured by Ambit with part# 6633TZA013A.

    Hope this be of additional help.

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Feb 23, 2008

    Many components or LCD monitors are available on line. The easiest would be to do a Google for "LCD parts"

    Incidentally, the previously posted images were adapted from



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Power connector pinout for CT-13R50 television

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DC Models ONLY
"This TV model operates on both standard household current (120 volt, 60 Hz AC) and car battery (12 volt negative ground DC) through the cigarette lighter. An AC power cord and a car cigarette lighter adapter cord are supplied.
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1 Answer

T101r just installed by licensed electrician. On off switch does not operate. Power is continuously supplied to timer. On Off pins do not operate. I must control power from gfi attached to house or breaker...

I have this timer. The clock should run continuously in order to keep time.
The ON/OFF switch should turn the load (lights, pump, etc.) on and off.
If it doesn't, either the device is defective or it is incorrectly wired.
The wiring should be:
The 120 volt supply white wire connects to the A terminal.
The 120 volt supply black wire connects to the LINE terminal.
The load white connects to the A terminal.
The load black connects to the LOAD terminal.
The clock wires area already connected to the A and LINE terminals.
Let me know what you find.

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I have a roper dryer 4 cycle model # rex4625ew1..I recently moved into a mobile home and I changed my plug from a 3 prong plug to a 4 prong plug..I did what the instructions said on the back of the dryer.I...

First, I'm confused about your dryer cord change. The green ground wire should NOT be connected to the neutral terminal block - but rather stay connected to the dryer cabinet. Here's a detailed link the describes (with photos) how to change a dryer's 3 wire cord to a 4 wire cord. This work should be double-checked to make sure you've done it correctly and have a safe installation.

Since you're not getting the dryer to run (you didn't say if it spins but has no heat or if nothing works at all) and you've checked the components of the dryer; the only thing left is to make sure there is 240 volts at the dryer outlet.

Make sure the power is ON. You should have either a 2 pole 30 amp circuit breaker or two 30 amp fuses that provide power to this outlet. Make sure the fuses are good / circuit breaker is ON (not tripped).

Do not touch a metal probe at any time that one is connected to the outlet in the steps below.

With a meter set to 250 volts or higher range - or a wiggy tester, slip each of the probes into one of the two straight blade openings in the outlet (use of a test lamp is discouraged as there is not voltage reading provided - it should only be used to indicate the presence of power). You should have a 240 volt indication (an indication of anywhere between 220 and 250 volts is acceptable).

Remove one of the probes and press it into the ""L" shaped opening; leaving the other probe in the straight blade opening. A 120 volt indication should be present (an indication of anywhere between 110 and 125 volts is acceptable for this and the following 120 volt measurements).

Remove the probe from the "L" shaped opening and press into the "O" shaped opening. Again, 120 volts should be indicated.

With the probe kept in the "O" shaped opening, remove the other probe from the straight blade opening and insert into the other straight blade opening. A 120 volt indication should be present.

Remove the probe from the "O" shaped opening and press into the "L" shaped opening. Again, a 120 volt indication should be present.

Remove the probe from the straight blade opening and press into the "O" opening. There should be a zero volt indication. A value of one or two volts is acceptable - but zero is expected.

If you get results that deviate in any way from those listed above, there is a problem with the circuit. An electrician should be called if the circuit breaker can't be reset or if fuses blow. If the voltages are indicating correctly but dryer still won't operate, there may be an issue with cord wiring or internal controls or safety devices inside the dryer.

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1 Answer

T103 clock not working

Please read all of this post. You may burn up the 120 volt T103 timer motor is you are not careful.

The statement: "I have 120v board with 120 constant and 240 timed" is not very clear to me as to what you mean.

In US residential wiring, the white wire is not always the "neutral;" The white wire is sometimes used for 240 volt circuits.

We cannot tell you how to wire your timer unless we know _exactly_ what you have.

If your incoming supply cable (from the breaker box) has 3 wires (black, white, and bare), there are two scenarios:

1...If the voltage from black (hot) to white (ALSO hot in this case) is 240 volts, and you have only 3 wires (black, white, and bare), then the T103 is the _wrong_ timer if you are trying to control a 240 volt load. You should use a T104 timer.

The T104 uses a 240 volt timer motor and the T103 uses a 120 volt timer motor.

2...If the voltage between black and white is 120 volts, then you will only be able to control 120 volt loads; then the incoming black supply wire is connected to terminal 3 and the white (neutral) wire is connected to the "A" terminal. The bare equipment grounding wire is then connected to the "GR" terminal.

To show the difference, if you are trying to control a 240 volt load, to use a T103 and wire it _correctly_, you would need to have a incoming supply cable with a total of 4 wires (black, red, white (neutral), and bare) Black to red would be 240 volts. Black to white would be 120 volts. Red to white would be 120 volts.
The connections would be as follows:
White (neutral in this case) to the "A" terminal
Black to terminal 1
Red to terminal 3
The 240 volt load would then connect to terminals 2 and 4
Both the bare equipment grounding wires are connected to the "GR" terminal.

Since you did not mention a red wire, I can only ASSUME that this is not the case.

Sorry, we can't tell you how to wire this timer based upon assumptions.

So, what do you have?

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1 Answer

Hi, I live in Argentina and I have a kenmore 96093800 Dryer. This Machine has 120/240v and his plug has 4 pins. Two pins are flat, one pin is cilindric, and the fourth pin is en angule. How can I connect...

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The wiring diagram for that timer is somewhat misleading. The 120 volt clock timer motor is connected internally to the "A" (neutral) terminal and the #3 terminal. The "A" (neutral) terminal is to the immediate left of the #1 terminal.
Here's how to do the wiring for your use, (assuming a 120 volt supply circuit and a 120 volt lighting or other load):
Connect the incoming power (line) black wire to terminal # 3. Connect the incoming (neutral) white wire to terminal "A".
Connect the outgoing (load) black wire to terminal # 4.
Connect the outgoing (neutral) white wire to terminal "A".

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The wiring is incorrect. The wiring diagram for that timer is misleading. The 120 volt clock timer motor is connected internally to the "A" (neutral) terminal and the #3 terminal. The "A" (neutral) terminal is to the immediate left of the #1 terminal.
Here's how to do the wiring for your use, (assuming a 120 volt supply circuit and a 120 volt light circuit):
Connect the incoming power (line) black wire to terminal # 3. Connect the incoming (neutral) white wire to terminal "A".
Connect the outgoing (load) black wire to terminal # 4.
Connect the outgoing (neutral) white wire to terminal "A".

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