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Washing machine I need to replace the seal and bearings in my top load washing machine would appreciate any help thanks

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  • sandshoe Feb 23, 2008

    simpson aquarius 824 washing machine trying to find repair manual to fix seal and bearings

  • Ron Coons
    Ron Coons May 11, 2010

    manufacture and model helpful, they"re all diff



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Sorry not familliar with this make at all, good luck

Posted on Feb 23, 2008


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Fisher and Paykel GW712AU.I replaced the main shaft seal and bearings.Now the shaft with the wash bowl attached slides down through the seal,top bearing, spacer and lower bearing causing the motor to

Hi I just read your post.
It sounds like you have got the shaft upside down.
Large nut for the shaft goes on at bottom bearing & put your seal in last.Make sure you put enough grease on the lip of the seal.

Feb 07, 2013 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

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Leaving black residue (spots) on clothing

Black spots usually come from the agitator shaft bearing seal which will, when worn, allow oil from the transmission to seep into the wash. Replace the seal, and maybe the upper bearing if the shaft itself will move visibly from side to side in various directions. If the machine is still under warranty, take advantage. Hope this helps!

Apr 12, 2010 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

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I need to change the door seal, any advice??

This video will show you how to change the door seal gasket on your washing machine
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a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Oct 11, 2009 | Siemens WM5487A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Loud noise from Kenmore front loading washer

Here is a compilation of my advice on repairing these units
This is a cronic problem of front loader machines. The two bearings that hold the wash drum are dried out and then they over heat. The heat builds up and weakens the seal that keeps water in and grease out starts to leak and the problem just becomes worse with every load. A service repair man will charge you the cost of a new machine to fix the unit. You can replace the bearings and seal with parts from a bearing supply store and if you do, only use bearings from Japan or Germany. Your machine came with ones from China and that is why these machines are failing after so many years.

The bearings on the back of the outer shell, the ones that spin the drum, are finished. There is also a seal on the inside of the shell that keeps water from leaking and it is leaking also. As a result the brown grease from the bearings is seeping past the seal and contaminating your wash. You need to replace the bearings and seal to fix the problem. You can go to your local appliance store and order the rear half of the outer shell for about $230.00 and have the same problem in 4 years. Or you can buy the bearings and seal at a bearing supply store for about $100.00.
The part numbers needed are:
Seal #408010 DAE (vulcanised double lip seal)
Rear bearing 6308 (sealed bearing)
Front bearing 6307 (sealed bearing)

The bearings to buy are made in Japan. If you buy cheep China bearings then you are asking for trouble because that is what was in your machine to start with. Timkin and *** are 2 of the best made bearings.
To remove the bearings you can use a hammer and a metal punch. To install them use a hammer and a 2X4 on end and be careful not to damage the bearing. This is easy to do.
An appliance repair shop will charge you the price of a new washer to do this repair. The choice is yours.

The hardest part is the door bellows. Not too hard, just need a couple of tools and an hour or so. First, open the door. Next you need a thin bladed Richard brand knife model #S-12 or a razor blade and a flat thin screw driver. The seal has been glued on and you need to find a place that you can slip the screw driver between the door and the seal. Jently pull as much of the seal away from the machine as you can. Once you find a glued piece slip the knife bewteen the seal and the machine to cut the glue. It is good glue so it will take some time to do this all of the way around the door opening. Once all of the glue has been cut, undo the plastic water spout clamp, reach inside of the machine and grab the seal by the top of the wash tub. Pull down and out at the same time and the seal will come out with a little effort but watch out for the tension spring. The spring has some tension and could come out rather quick so do not have your head by the door when doing this step. This concludes the removal and since you bought a new seal, all that is neccessary is to clean off all of the glue residue on the machine and the years of grime on the tub where the seal goes. Clean these areas very well and it will pay dividends later.

To install the new seal look on the wash tub at the top and bottom and there should be an arrow cast into the plastic in one of the locations. Line up the arrow on the rubber seal (search for it) with the one on the wash tub. Carefully instal the seal by having a finger in the seal groove and hooking the seal over and under the wash tub lip. Do not let the arrow slip to a new location as you are doing this. Once the seal is in place double check to make sure that the seal is properly installed. Now gently push the seal into the wash tub so that you have access to the outer lip of the wash tub where the tension spring goes. 2 people are required for the next step. One person will place and hold the spring in the groove and another person will stretch and feed the spring in both directions around the spring groove. Take your time and do not loose your cool with this step. If you need to use non pionted or sharp tools to assist, what ever works is fine. Once the spring is in place you need to reglue the door seal to the machine. I use black RTV silicone from your local auto parts store. Place some glue into the channel and pull the gasket out from inside the machine. Slip the seal over the lip all of the way around the door opening and remove any excess silicone. Let this cure over night before using the machine. That is the end and the door seal is replaced.

Jun 14, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washer leaves spots on dark clothes, I do not use bleach. The spots look like the interior washing tub. What can I do to stop this problem?

replace the felt seal or the bearing is failed.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for helping with your FREE question

Mar 17, 2009 | Kenmore 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Very loud when spinning out.


Feb 15, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Bearing or gearbox noise on spin

It is a pleasure for me to offer some assistance to users all over the world. The problem you are describing to me is a very common for any amana, speed queen washers. The tub seal leaks and washes the lubricant from the upper bearing making the roaring noise in spin. The bearing needs replacement now, also the tub seal comes as a kit to rebuild all the sealing surfaces. It also does require a complete dissasembly to install the new kit plus the bearing. I would charge 3 hours labor @ 75/hr and the parts would be around $100 for the hub-n-seal kit and the bearing. However you may want to consider a new machine with a better warranty (extended warranties are a MUST these days......BUY ONE with any new appliance. Hope this helps let me know if you have any questions. Unfortunatly these Speed queen design washer have a myriad of design problems and this is only one of them.

Jan 01, 2008 | Speed Queen AWS52NW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Amana Top Load Washer model# LW3502W Washer leaks water somewhere between wash & rinse cycle best I can tell...drain hose checks out fine. At beginning of wash cycle the first minute or two of agitation...

Sounds like the water seal is damaged and the leaking water has damaged the top bearing which is just below the water seal. You will need to have the hub & seal kit replaced.

Oct 30, 2007 | Amana ALW480DA Top Load Washer

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