I asked recently about the tripping circuit
breaker and my Maytag MGR6775ADS stove. It appears that one of the
spark switches has been shorting (evidenced by small smoke signals when
the breaker is reset). After deciding to order the parts, I figured if
I disconnected the spark switch circuit, my wife could use the oven,
which needs the computer to run.
Long story short (no pun
intended) - when I reset the CB, my wife yelled "It's on FIRE! TURN IT
OFF!" (50-50 chance of disconnecting the one wire that was hot to the
Anyway, the top part of the burner is held to the
jet orifice section through the stove top assembly by two screws each.
If the burner tops can be removed, the whole stove top can be lifted
out to access the valve and switch area without risk to the gas pipes.
These screws have endured several years of cooking heat and look pretty
corroded and scorched. They are very tight. I don't want to break
them off if I can help it
The question is: Is there a professional's trick to getting these screws loosened?
been advised to use penetrating oil (trying liquid wrench on two of
them, being careful that it's fully evaporated before cooking on the
other two - repeated applications projected over 2-3 days).
Or is the professional's way to replace the anything that gets bunged up in the process as a part of the necessary procedure?
Or is it to only bend things just enough to get the switch harness assembly out and replaced?
No disrespect intended. I just know pro's have learned good methods that aren't in the manuals.
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Re: Those darn screws!
Gook, another suggestion would be to shock them.Insert the screwdriver into the screw and hit the end of the screwdriver with a hammer.Do it lightly so you dont ding the oven up.Another way is to use a mapp torch and heat them up.
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From having a Hotpoint myself, I can think of 2 possibilities.
Obvious answer would be electrical problem. If it trips the breaker you probably have a loose wire or a bad plugin socket. Did you buy a new "pigtail" plugin socket or did you use an old one when you got the stove? They say to buy a new one each time. If this is your first problem with this then your circuit can probably handle the load but see if the circuit that tripped says 30 or 40 amps. Also check to see if anything else is on that circuit besides your stove. There shouldn't be anything else on circuit. You may even have a bad circuit breaker but that seems less likely.
Second possibility is a bad baking element at the bottom of stove or bad heating element on top. When mine went bad, it made loud popping noises and sparks were flying. After that, the rest of the stove worked but not the baking element. I had to replace it for about $50.
My bet is on a loose wire. Be careful and unplug everything before you check! See if it's not fully plugged into the socket and see if the 3 or 4 wires coming from the thick plug wire are all tightly connected to your stove.
Check the thermal coupler a copper thermometer for your stove after checking all the fuses in stove and circuit breaker box of house to see if any have tripped. Circuit Breakers should have the switches all in a line. Any not in the lie will be tripped. Fuses in your stove are usually in the top part of the stove where the instruments are and fuses screw out and visually are easy to detect if they are blown or not. Remember all ways Unplug what you are working on to prevent shock
The stove top is internally wired separately from the oven. Check that you don't have a faulty circuit breaker in your breaker panel. The oven is 240V which has two breakers ganged together. If only one side trips you can loose power to the heating elements but still have power to the control board (to light up ON).
My arc fault breaker trips in my bedroom when ever a load is put on line. The trunk line comes into a three gang switch box and feeds the entire room. At times I can turn my ceiling fan and light on for 10 to 20 minutes before the breaker trips. Other times the breaker will trip when either switch is first turned on. I plugged a 4 watt night light in a wall receptical, without the ceiling light or fan on, it also trips the breaker. I have had other plug in lamps, 60 watt, work in other recepticals for a while. The problem seems to appear in all recepticals and lighting in the room.
Check for a tripped circuit breaker (a ganged double breaker), sometimes only one breaker trips without tripping the other. Switch breakers off and then back on. If you have access to a voltmeter, check for 220 volts AC at the the two slanted slots in the dryer socket. Occasionally, one breaker of the pair will fail internally--replace the pair. If 220 volts is present, then problem is internal to the dryer. Usually, it is a short circuit in the heating element which causes the circuit breaker trip.
2 common, possible problems. 1 - there is a "short" in the plug - easy fix - replace either the cord or plug - not expensive. 2 - bad control board - not so easy, not so cheap. Is it brand new, used? Also, it could be a bad "internal breaker" - not easy!
It sounds to me like there is a short circuit either in the plug or the connections at the stove. It could also be within the stove although that seems very unlikely. If this happens when your using the stove, the breaker and circuit could be undersized (required breaker size-50AMPS) Check all wires and the breaker.
first thing is to check you r circuit breaker,is it an electric range ??? or a gas stove with electronic iginiton???, if its a full electric range then youll have a double breaker powering your unit, and its possible that one of the breakers tripped, allowing only half power to the unit.if its a gas with electronic igniton then slightly different matter and then i would ask of the top elemnts will light with match and perhaps theres an issue with the electronic spark switch