I asked recently about the tripping circuit breaker and my Maytag MGR6775ADS stove. It appears that one of the spark switches has been shorting (evidenced by small smoke signals when the breaker is reset). After deciding to order the parts, I figured if I disconnected the spark switch circuit, my wife could use the oven, which needs the computer to run.
Long story short (no pun intended) - when I reset the CB, my wife yelled "It's on FIRE! TURN IT OFF!" (50-50 chance of disconnecting the one wire that was hot to the short...)
Anyway, the top part of the burner is held to the jet orifice section through the stove top assembly by two screws each. If the burner tops can be removed, the whole stove top can be lifted out to access the valve and switch area without risk to the gas pipes. These screws have endured several years of cooking heat and look pretty corroded and scorched. They are very tight. I don't want to break them off if I can help it
The question is: Is there a professional's trick to getting these screws loosened?
I've been advised to use penetrating oil (trying liquid wrench on two of them, being careful that it's fully evaporated before cooking on the other two - repeated applications projected over 2-3 days).
Or is the professional's way to replace the anything that gets bunged up in the process as a part of the necessary procedure?
Or is it to only bend things just enough to get the switch harness assembly out and replaced?
No disrespect intended. I just know pro's have learned good methods that aren't in the manuals.
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Your machine has an "upper broil hi-limit thermostat" that has likely tripped and is not allowing L2 to your element... Range Stove Oven High Limit Thermostat WP71001844 If you get no heat anywhere, reset your circuit breaker! It can trip halfway and you can't tell by looking at it...
Things to check : Thermostat, heating element and the circuit breaker for the stove at the power panel. If the stove has lights and the clock works, there is a 100 % chance the circuit breaker is at fault. There are 2 breakers with joined trip handles. One of those breakers has tripped without tripping the other which stops 20 volts but not 120 volts that the clock and light run off of. You can use a multimeter to check the element for continuity. If there is continuity then check for the presence of voltage at the element terminals. None indicates a bad thermostat.
First check that your circuit breaker is not tripped. There are two breakers ganged together, one feeds the 240V to the elements, the other powers the control board. So it's possible that one side can be tripped and cause your symptom.
Also, you may have elements that have failed, but usually not both at same time!
Next most likely cause is a thermal fuse. These are safety devices, most ovens have a least one mounted on the chassis that, if tripped, interrupts the power to the elements but not the control board. They are not resettable but have to be replaced if tripped.
You may have a problem with the control in which case you could have us rebuild it:
The stove top is internally wired separately from the oven. Check that you don't have a faulty circuit breaker in your breaker panel. The oven is 240V which has two breakers ganged together. If only one side trips you can loose power to the heating elements but still have power to the control board (to light up ON).
2 common, possible problems. 1 - there is a "short" in the plug - easy fix - replace either the cord or plug - not expensive. 2 - bad control board - not so easy, not so cheap. Is it brand new, used? Also, it could be a bad "internal breaker" - not easy!
It sounds to me like there is a short circuit either in the plug or the connections at the stove. It could also be within the stove although that seems very unlikely. If this happens when your using the stove, the breaker and circuit could be undersized (required breaker size-50AMPS) Check all wires and the breaker.
I will try to assist you but will be making some assumptions based on your problem description. First off, when you say it takes a few tries torest the fuses.. are you referring to circuit breakers? or changing out fuses a few time until it begins to work ok? In either case, the fact that it is drawing more current than the service ( fused or circuit breaker protected implies that you have one of two problems, 1. undersized service ( meaning the fuse of circuit breaker which protect the circuit is under-sized) or 2. a short internal to the stove or receptacle that supplies power to that stove.
I would approach a solution in this manner. Remove or disable power to the stove then open the wall receptacle and ( with power verified and off) tighten all wire junctions.. I have seen cases where a loose wire termination becomes resistive and then in order to meet power demand at the burner, more current is drawn which in turn causes the breaker or fuse to trip..) I would also check the terminations at the point of entry for the power cord at the stove. Make sure all the wire terminations are tight. Once you've done that, try turning on one burner at a time and see if the service remains on or trips the protector ( fuse/breaker) I wouldn't use the oven until I verified that each burner works OK.. then try the oven by itself.. and add a burner .. then two.. ( the point being is to try to determine if you have one of the heating elements shorting. 12:00 flashing is the default time setting after power is lost and restarted. I am almost 'questioning your electricians findings" since circuits do not trip unless there is a fault ( too much current being drawn or the service is under-sized for that oven) or... the circuit protection in and of itself is failing due to marginal components. The fact that it is getting worse suggests that whatever was shorting is shorting more frequently.. perhaps a heating element is shorting after it gets hot.. they are typically resistive elements and it is possible for a short to develop between the core material and the protective jacket.. I hope that helps you... or at least provides a few ideas on where to look...
your stove doesnt have any internal fuses. if you are not getting "any" of the units to get fully hot, then you might have a house fuse that has blown or a breaker that has tripped. it is also possible that the cord has a burnt connection at the rear of the unit where it connects to the units block. if you only have no heat in the oven, then you may have just a burnt out bake element.