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Alarm light staying on.

I have an Optimus dish heater model H-4438. The ALARM light is supposed to come on if the heater gets to hot. Even after it's been off for a day, when you turn it on the ALARM light comes on and the heater will not work. Any advice. There are no trouble shooting tips in the manual.
Thanks

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  • 14 more comments 
  • Anonymous Feb 23, 2008

    I am having the same problem! What's the fix?

  • Anonymous Mar 04, 2008

    I have the same problem, it just started today.

  • Jimmy2008 Mar 04, 2008

    I have the same problem. I tried unplugging it for awhile and no luck. I also tried holding down the button on the underside of the unit, just to eliminate a potential area, and still nothing. Sounds like a pattern...

  • dpeel Mar 12, 2008

    I am also having the same problem with my heater. The alarm light stays on and theres no heat. Is this a flaw or coincidence that there are at least 4 others with the same problem?

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2008

    I also have the same problem, the fuse is in good condition, but still not working.

  • omg1 May 09, 2008

    I'm freezing right now!! Ditto to all the other complaints. The Alarm light stays so that means no heat!! Got a solution????

  • Anonymous Nov 02, 2008

    I have the Patton Maxflow PRH11-DIM and out of the blue... the audible alarm will not STOP! I unplugged it and left it off for longer than 24 hours hoping that it would somehow reset itsself. But to no avail no such luck.

  • darrel24 Nov 12, 2008

    optimus h-4438 electric heater alarm light stays on, no heat

  • sagejessee Nov 16, 2008

    I have the same problem. I'm going to open it up today and see if I can fix it. Will report back if I figure anything out.

  • Anonymous Nov 18, 2008

    im cold

  • rdrichar Nov 20, 2008

    alarm light comes on and no heat

  • rideithrlygi Dec 05, 2008

    Optiumus heater, alarm light stays on and does not heat up

  • mawpeg Dec 13, 2008

    The alarm light comes on as soon as you turn the heater on and it will not heat.

  • Anonymous Jan 02, 2009

    Same problem with the alarm light as previously noted. Only the 2nd winter season using this unit. Very disappointing.

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2009

    I have same problem with 2 of the same model heaters I bought from Smas Club. They are nothing but junk. Sams Club is selling junks just for higher profits.

  • canvaslady Mar 12, 2009

    Turn on heater, alarm light goes on and no heat at all.

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I have the same problem. I removed the center panel on the back of the dish and found a fuse inside a white insulating sleeve. The fuse is open, preventing the current from reaching the heating coils. On the fuse it says 121 C. and 15 A.; I assume that it is designed to blow if the temp. of the dish exceeds 121 centigrade or the current exceeds 15 Amps. I don't see any reason to believe that either has happened so I suspect that these fuses just spontaneously fail. Now I just need to find a source for new ones. I wouldn't recommend jumping the fuse as it could lead to a fire.

Posted on Sep 05, 2008

  • 3 more comments 
  • Janice Jun 30, 2011

    Any luck finding a fuse?

  • Fred Pinkul Jul 01, 2011

    I found a fuse that has the right specs. If you Google NTE8125 (the part number of the thermal cutoff) you will get lots of places to buy them. They come with two crimp sleeves for attaching them (soldering might burn it out). I bought 4 of them from Newark and have used 2 so far (I have 3 of the Optimus heaters.

  • Peter Schneidler Nov 03, 2011

    Fred, how do you know if the fuse is open? I am not very handy, but I got the heater all taken apart and found the fuse inside the white insulating sleeve. It is still physically attached on both sides. And for me it is not the "NTE8125" fuse mentioned in the other comment. It is a sf119u fuse that is also wide available for about the same price (less than $2 each). But I don't know that the one on my heater is blown or open. I don't want to go through the time of ordering a new one, installing it, and finding out it wasn't the problem. Any suggestion on how to tell if the fuse is "open" as Fred described above?

  • Fred Pinkul Nov 03, 2011

    Peter,
    If you have a voltmeter with a scale that covers 120 volts AC, then you connect the leads on either side of the thermal cutoff. If the cutoff is conducting(still good) the reading should be approx. 0, if the thermal cutoff is not conducting(failed) the reading should be about 120v. You should do this in a dry location where you are not grounded and don't touch any of the metal parts while the dish is plugged in (this test must be done while plugged in and turned on. If you not sure of your ability to do this safely you can test it while unplugged by disconnecting one end of the thermal cutoff and then measuring its resistance with your meter - it should be somewhere near 0 ohms if it's still good.
    The SF119U is essentially the same as the NTE8125.

  • Tod Karlson
    Tod Karlson Dec 11, 2012

    Use an aligator clip (actually a lead with an aligator clip on each end) to "jump" the fuse. If the fuse is blow, the heater will work when you plug it in. If there's a bad short, the lead will get real hot real fast.

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I have an OPTIMUS dish heater model H-4436. The heater was jolted and the alarm went off.

Now when I turn on the heater the Alarm light comes on emmediatly and there's no heat.

I've tried this many many times with no results. What can I do to get the heater operating again?

Thanks,

Judith

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

I'm also having the same problem.

Posted on Apr 14, 2008

  • Peter Schneidler Nov 03, 2011

    I'm also having the same problem. Obviously a flawed heater. I paid I think $40 to $60 for it, at Sam's Club or Costco as I recall. : - (

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Me too

Posted on Mar 15, 2008

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