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Kenmore 80 series washer

The washer stops when it gets to the rinse cycle.

The washer stops when it gets to the rinse cycle. I found the problem. The depresion switch is missing. Can the switch be by-passed?

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  • m101z Mar 23, 2008

    My 2-year old Kenmore 80 series washer has a similar problem which stops at Rinse/Spin cycle. I heard timer's tickling sound, but timer won't move further. I shorted lid switch, but it still won't Rinse/Spin. Do you think timer goes bad or the capacitor (where is it located?) goes bad? Thank you in advance!

  • Anonymous Apr 30, 2008

    what is the very small diameter tube on the lid switch and what does it connect to?

  • Anonymous Jan 28, 2009

    Washing machine keeps stopping and tripping the outlet during the wash cycle, stops a multiple of times. also water is leaking underneath the front of washer. any thoughts?

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The switch you're talking about is called a "lid switch". It can be by-passed, but it is there for a reason. The switch is used to prevent the tub from spinning or agitating with the lid open. This is a safety measure to prevent personal injury. You mentioned that the switch was "missing". It may have simply come loose and fallen inside the washer between the case and tub. More than likely, it is hanging by a ground wire and a plug. If you can retrieve the switch and screw it back in place on the rim of the wash tub opening, you may actually fix your problem. However, if the switch is broken, you need to replace it. Here's how:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.


PS To answer your initial question about by-passing the switch, when you remove the console and disconnect the lid switch, you can take the connector that is MOUNTED ON THE WASHER TOP and remove it by pressing the release tabs and pulling it from under the tub rim. This is the connector plug that runs to the lid switch. Cut the plug from the switch, leaving a couple of inches of wire. Short the two black wires together, insulate the ends and cut the green wire flush. You now have made a by-pass plug. Simply plug it in to the connector that is RUNNING FROM THE TIMER and (voila!), you have a working washer. Keep in mind that now your washer will NOT stop when you open the lid. Use caution if you're going to operate your machine in this manner.

Now...if you're going to go this far, you should replace the switch. A new switch runs about $35 or less. Its an easy repair if you follow the directions. Keep the plug handy in the event that you run into this problem again and need to drain and spin the water out.

Good luck to you and let me know if you need any further assistance.

Posted on Feb 22, 2008

  • Bbkowal Apr 17, 2011

    When bypassing the switch, it would seem a good idea NOT to cut the ground wire flush but instead to leave it as is and reconnect it to the case. This will properly ground the case and prevent dangerous voltages from appearing on same if a short should occur.

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Great Info! I ordered the switch but won't get it for another week. But in the meantime, my tub is full of water with clothing. I just need the quick bypass solution until the remedy arrives in the mail.

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

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Is there a safe solution to the type of connector that should be used in bypassing the lid switch on a kenmore

Posted on Aug 19, 2010

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