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Furnace quit. Doesn't even run the air intake

Furnace quit. Doesn't even run the air intake cycle. There is power to the unit, checked with voltage detector. Don't see pilot lit. Have reset power twice.

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Are you sure you have a standing Pilot? You would know if you had to light it. Perhaps you have a hot
surface ignition system, on a call for heat the induced
draft blower will run, then the hot surfave ignitor located on the far right side of burner should glow red
and the burners should light.

Check to make sure the flame rollout switch on the
left side of the burners is not tripped.

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

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Outside unit starts but stops running in a few minutes. The rest of the a/c seems to be fine but doesn't cool


there could be quite a few problems with it. either it has something to do with the high or low safety pressure switches. Or you have a low voltage issue-not getting enough low voltage power to the coil of the contactor. how long do you wait after you turn the unit on? there is a 5 to 10 minute delay in the control board to keep the compressor from short cycling. meaning to keep the compressor from turning off then on again right away. short cycling a compressor too much will ruin it. There also could be an issue with the delay board it self. Or its a heat pump it could be an issue with the defrost board or the defrost sensor. I have even seen it to have a short in the wires of the coil of the contactor. But when that happens it will burn out the transformer or the low voltage fuse of the transformer or on the control board.

have you got it figured out already? If not can you give me more info on what it does? Or if it ever comes on after you wait at least ten minutes. Can you hear the hum the coil of the contactor makes when it is calling for the cooling. you might even have a problem with the contacts of the contactor not getting the proper power thru it to turn or keep the unit on.


Like I said there could be quite a few different possible issues with it to not stay on.

Apr 13, 2013 | American Standard WCZ036F Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I have an oil fired aga the oil will not come throw to the burner


see the following steps:
f the burner doesn't run, set the thermostat a few degrees higher than normal to see if it comes on. If it still doesn't come on, check switches, and breakers and fuses (see the Electrical Service Panel Fix-It Guide). If the unit has a reset button, press it. Also oil the motor at any oil ports (see below). If the unit doesn't want to start and run, first check the c to make sure that the ignition is getting power. If there is power, check the built-in safety controls (see below) that may turn the system off if they perceive problems.
If the burner cycles too often, replace the filter (see below). Also, oil and adjust the blower (see the Forced-Air Distribution Fix-It Guide).
If the burner runs but won't fire, make sure the oil valves are open and that there's oil in the tank. Check the tank level with a clean stick.
If the burner smokes or squeals, shut off the unit, let it cool, and fill the oil cups. Recheck them after the motor has run for an hour.
If the chimney smokes even after the flue has warmed up, the unit is wasting fuel; call for professional repair.
Safety Controls
Oil furnaces and other heat systems include safety devices that monitor operation and turn off the unit if something goes wrong. In some cases, the safety device can be the problem.
If you encounter an operating problem with an oil furnace, first reset the safety and try again.
If the burner kicks off again, shut off all power at the electrical service panel ; the burner motor and ignition may be protected by separate fuses or breakers.
If the sensor has a photocell, wipe it with a clean rag or tissue and see if the furnace starts.
If the safety is a stack switch mounted on the flue, remove the screw holding the unit to the stack, slide it out, and wipe off the sensor.
If the furnace won't start after three tries, seek professional assistance. Unburned oil can accumulate in the combustion chamber and "flash back."


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Jul 31, 2012 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a Haier air conditioner model HWR10XC6. It's been in storage since last fall, and I put it in our window this morning. I plugged it in, and the light on the panel came on for a split second,...


First check if the fan is running. If the fan is notrunning is the compressor not running also, if neither is running the possiblereasons are 1, no power to outside unit, 2.bad contactor on outside unit, isthis buzzing if it is this indicates no power, 3 bad capacitor, do bothcompressor and fan humm then quit humming and hum some more, 4 high pressure switchhas shut unit down because fan wasn't running if compressor was running but notfan, if your unit has this there will be a manual reset button where the lines come out ofunit. If compressor was running and fan was not, 1 bad fan or 2 bad capacitor. Please check these followings: 1. Thermostat checks i) Is thesystem selector switch in the "Cool" position?
ii) Is the temperature set at least 3 degrees below current room temperature?
iii) If your thermostat is electronic, are the batteries charged?
iv) Some forced-air furnaces have a switch on the thermostat that allows you toturn the fan on independently of the furnace or air conditioner. This switchwill be marked "ON" and "AUTO". Does your thermostat havesuch a switch?
v) If the answer to the above is Yes, listen for the furnace fan coming on. Ifyou cannot hear the fan, go to one of the supply registers and see if you canfeel any air coming up. Is the furnace fan operating?

If everything seemsfine with the thermostat, the next step is to make sure there is power going tothe furnace.

2. Electrical checks

(A) Items to check at the furnace
i) Your systemmay be equipped with an emergency shut-off switch for the furnace. If so, makesure it is turned ON. In most homes, the emergency shut-off switch looks justlike a regular light switch and will be located close to the furnace. (Tracethe wire from the switch to the furnace to make sure you have the right switch.)It is quite common for this switch to be turned off accidentally. If the switchis ON, but the fan still doesn't operate, proceed to the Items to check at theelectrical panel.
ii) Some heating systems also have emergency cut-out switches that are activatedwhen a door or service panel is removed. Often the furnace door is not replacedproperly after a filter cleaning and the cut-out switch will prevent thefurnace from coming on. Check to make sure all access doors are properlysecured and fitted. (B) Items tocheck at the electrical panel i) Thebreakers for the air conditioner and the furnace should be in the"ON" position. If a breaker has been tripped, it will be in aposition between ON and OFF. To reset, turn the breaker all the way off and thenback on. If you have fuses instead, make sure the fuse hasn't blown. If it has,replace it with the same-d fuse. If you havedetermined that there is power to the furnace but you are still not getting anyheat, select your heating fuel type from the list below and continue with thechecks. If you have discovered that the furnace is not getting any power, callyour service contractor. (C) Items tocheck at the air conditioner i) Somecentral air conditioners are installed with a switch, or electrical disconnect,mounted outside to turn off the main power to the unit. Whether or not you havesuch a switch will depend on the electrical code in your area. If you have adisconnect switch, check to make sure it is in the ON position.
ii) Is the fan running on the unit outside? (If the fan is running, you havepower to the unit.)
iii) Some air conditioners will make a little buzzing sound, even when they arenot running. Have you ever noticed this before? Can you hear it now? Summary: Ifyou have determined that there is power to both the furnace and air conditionerbut you are still not getting any cool air, continue with the checks in thisguide. If either the furnace or air conditioner does not have power, call yourservice contractor. (D) Icechecks i) Is thereice building up on the pipes connecting the furnace to the air conditioningunit outside?
ii)Touch the plenum (this is the sheet metal box that comes off of the furnace;the evaporator coil is inside). Does it feel very cold? If it does, theevaporator coil may be frozen and you'll need to call for service Hope this will help you. Good Luck.

Jul 15, 2011 | Haier hwr10xc6 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

How can i wire in an auxilary fan to run with the furnace blower


Hi, if the fan doesn't draw too much power, there is no problem wiring it in parallel. I'm assuming it runs on the same voltage as the blower. If not, or if the fan requires a lot of power, you can wire in a relay to run the fan. If you provide details on the furnace and the fan I can be more specific.

Jul 03, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Duo Therm Mod# 90120.001 runs but won't light


There are only three things that stop a burner from lighting (or engine from running): 1. No fuel 2. bad air/fuel mixture 3. no source of ignition.

Guess what? It's one of these three.

For starters, I actually have this furnace. First things first, make sure you have sufficient voltage to the unit. It runs on the 12 volt system, so make sure the battery is fully charged and/or you are plugged in to "shore" power and your inverter is working. If the voltage is low, the fan will run, the relays will click, but the gas valve may not open and the igniter may not have the juice to run.

At startup, you should hear relays clicking. Three times, on/off, 10 seconds apart, before the board gives up trying. If you don't hear this, probably bad board or bad hearing, but possibly bad sail switch (switch tripped by main blower air flow), relays, or gas valve actuators.

The blower will run even with the control board disconnected.

Next, check for obstructions in the inlet/exhaust, like wasp nests. Wasps LOVE hydrocarbons for some reason. Truthfully though, this shouldn't be a problem unless the nest completely obstructs the tube. This furnace has a choke which restricts the airflow to an area about the diameter of a large middle finger or a small thumb anyway. That's what the "burner air adjustment" adjusts.

If everything is clicking but it still doesn't light, you should be able to smell gas at the exhaust. If not, guess what? Probably no gas. Points to bad board, sail switch, low voltage at valve, or bad valve (unlikely).

Assuming you have gas smell, check the connection to the igniter. Heat/cool-down cycles will tend to loosen the nut. It's a .25 inch socket by the way. To get at it you need to remove the furnace from the RV.

After removal, to get the furnace out of its shroud, you only need to remove the hex screw at the center-front by the gas valve and the wiring pull-thru on the right side. Then the unit will slide out.

While you're at it, check the gas orifice for obstructions. I did this by removing the air inlet shroud, but there may be an easier way. I think you can remove the whole gas assembly instead, but removing the shroud lets you clean everything up a bit. I had mud wasps obstructing the inlet tube. The tube has a choke inside like a flattened golf ball. If you remove the tube it will fall out. It's a little tricky to get back in, but not impossible. Just line it up with a nail.

The gas jet is quite large as gas jets go. Remove the jet and clean it with brake cleaner and/or compressed air.

Check all connections, tighten as necessary. Clean and tighten ground connections, blow or vacuum away dust. Vacuum through the exhaust while you are at it.

Reassemble and spark her up on the bench.

You can McGyver a battery connection to the unit to test operation. Red to red, negative to yellow. The blue wires are for thermostat. Short them together to test operation.

This won't help much without gas, but you can at least see that the sail switch operates properly.

The sail switch controls gas flow.

You can't really test the igniter easily. It's high voltage and a pig to remove and replace. If you don't have a spare gasket, don't.

You can check voltage to gas valve. If none, it is either sail switch or board. Jump sail switch to test which.

Now the iffy bit. If the voltage is lower than 9.5 volts, the valve probably won't open. The question becomes "why." Bad ground? Bad connection somewhere? Bad input voltage? Bad board?

Check, clean and tighten connections. Clean edge connector on board - gently with cloth or pencil eraser. Try again.

This is the situation I have; there is a voltage drop at the valve (between connector and ground) of 3 volts. The furnace runs on shore power, but not on a fully-charged battery. I've ordered a new board.

If you don't understand me, or it still doesn't work, you need a licensed tech with access to parts. He should be able to bench-test unit, so just slide it out and take it to him.

Good luck!

PS: New board from http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/ did the trick.

May 25, 2011 | Dometic Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

I have a DuoTherm BriskAIr 13.5K BTU. The Dometic thermostat also controls my HydroFlame 8531-IV furnace. This morning, the furnace would not come on. I checked the wiring and there is no voltage at the...


If you look at control box at roof unit, they usually use a separate set of wires for furnace. See what colors they are attached to at harness to thermostat. Some just follow other harness, and come out at thermostat. (bypass control box) Once you've determined which 2 they are, join them together & see if furnace starts, as it should. If it does, thermostat is faulty. If not, pull outside cover off & check voltages at furnace. I'm guessing by furnace model that your unit is approx 30 ft , but if it's a park model, you may have 24 volt system on furnace or 12 volt. Another way of confirming is to go to back of furnace where air intake grille is inside your unit, and locate 2 blue wires going to furnace & remove whatever wires are attached to them & connect them together. Furnace should start up.

Jul 08, 2009 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Air conditioner/furnace squirrel cage fan remains running when th


Ensure you don't have a short in your therm wires. Disconnect them, if the furnace continues to run, you have a lockout problem at your furnace. When the motor on the fan fails, it wont run. Check for led codes on the control board. If you don't have led codes, turn off the power to the furnace at the breaker, and watch the unit. If nothing happens, connect the thermostat. If nothing happens still call for heat. Let the therm run through it's cycle, and if the bower runs continuous again, let me know we can walk through that situation.

Dec 05, 2008 | Ruud Central System Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Intertherm furnace explosive burner ignition


Cheman, yes this is a real problem. Not only will it get worse, it could kill you and your family. If there is a blockage inside the heat exchanger where your technician could not reach, you would not do much better and may cause more problems if you do. If you continue to run this furnace, you will create Carbon Monoxide and it will kill you over a very short time.

Stick with yor technicians recommendation and get a replacement unit. Go with a direct vent unit and a higher efficiency than this old clunker.

Nov 19, 2007 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Furnace problem


The problem is most likely in the control module of the roof air unit. Dometic uses the thermostat to activate and deactivate a relay in the control board of the roof ac unit whiich is just visible when you remove your air intake screen. The two blue with white stripe wires are the furnace control wires.

The furnace turns on and off by the opening and closing of relay. Most likely, the furnace control relay is stuck in the on position. On the thermostate, remove the fur wire and see if the furnace quits afrer it cycles down...it does not quit right away. With the termostat out of the loop, if the furnace does not shut down, the problem is in the control box. They are not hard to replace but you must be careful with the live wiire from the 110 ciucuit breaker. If you are not comfortable with the repair, take it to a dealer. The part number is on the assembly box. They need to know if you have the heat srip option or whatever othert options our Roof AC has. If the furnace still runs with the blue/white wires disconnected, the furnace wires are shorted somewhere between the furnace and the AC control unit.

Aug 21, 2007 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

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