Question about JBL PB12 Subwoofer

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HOW TO REPAIR A DAMAGED JBL PB12 it just stopped working, somebody told me it was unfixable due the part are very hard to get I guess the internal amplifier got broken

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  • David Dunn
    David Dunn May 11, 2010

    Depends what the damage is. Can you describe it and maybe what preceded or caused it? Diagnosis first, fix second.

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As with the two posters above, you need to check inside and get back with notes. If there is an amp module (S64AMI or S53AMI) then consider the amp non repairable, unless you want to use a replacement plate amp. Otherwise, it is a do it yourself project with a soldering iron, schematics, dvm ...

Posted on Mar 02, 2010

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  • JBL Master
  • 5,190 Answers

There is a quick way to find out if the parts are hard to get. Look inside a make a note of the IC and Transistor numbers. Don't bother with the resistors and caps. Put the numbers into Google and see what comes up.

Posted on Feb 10, 2010

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Sorry to hear that. The JBL PB12 are notorious for their amplifier module giving out. This item is not repairable nor is there a replacement (The module is potted into an aluminum heat sink). Actually, I need to clarify, as the late models used discrete components. If this is the case, either Repair it yourself (Google search PB12 Repairs) or take it to the local repair shop. (Or to a technical college with an electronics program, they may work on it!)

The best method is looking for a plate amp to replace the PB12 Amplifier - try the bash 300W. Several people have done this conversion. Be warned, you will need to do woodworking if you want to mount the plate amp on the box!

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Before you spend a lot of money, try checking for these:

- poorly soldered or partially desoldered wires, connectors (power, signal input) or ANY other components (especially the ones that tend to heat up, like power transistors or voltage regulators - a component which has been heating up will cause the curcuit board around it to become somewhat darker)

- dirty or oxydized contacts on ANY of the connectors or switches

- partially or fully blown electrolytic capacitors (see if any are damaged, bulged or blown at the top, these surely need to be replaced)

- internally damaged tantalum electrolytic capacitors (probably there will be no apparent damage to these, but they may cause intermittent disturbances if they are bad).

It may as well be something else, but if your equipment was being used extensively during these 6-8 years, it is likely that some capacitors may have dried up or otherwise failed.

It is also likely that the sound vibrations caused loose connections or bad solder contacts on the circuit board since it is a powered sub with an integrated amp (many audio devices get to suffer from bad solder contacts just by heating up with years of use and even without being exposed to powerful sound vibrations).

I hope you can get it to work well again.

regards

3rq8 (Triarcuate)

Sep 07, 2009 | Audio Players & Recorders

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