Question about Jandy Laars Lx 400,000 Btu Heater
Check wiring 220 vs 120 volt you might have to change wires if wired 120 volt change wires on ignitor to 120 volt see schematic inside front cover
Posted on May 01, 2016
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Jandy Lite 2 325n, FL4
The ignitor has 2 fuses in the wires leading to the ignitor. I am using the wiring diagram on page 21 of ths manual:
Scroll down to the ________ line aross the page and start reading...
If you look at the ignitor wires, there are shown as white and white connecting to red and red. Follow the 2 red wires back to the control panel. Somewhere in those wires EACH of them has a an in-line fuse. Check both fuses. Your initial ignitor that you replaced may have failed and opened one of the in-line fuses in the process.
Checking the voltage across the 2 red wires on the PCB should show 120VAC. However if you read the ignitor white wires you would have to use a chassis ground to read 120VAC. Reading across the 2 white wires would show no voltage. This would be typical of a fuse failure.
I note you stated no voltage at T1 or T2 on the main board (page 43 of the manual.)
That mean the problem may be in the safety circuit that inclused 2 limit thermostats, a pressure switch and a fuse link. Upper left side of the board. pull off the 6 pin connector and read continuity across the black and red wires. No continuity = a problem with one the following:
a. Presure switch (most common due to the switch sticking from corrosion diebris blocking the tube)
b. Either of the limit switches (Thermostats)
c. Fusable link
You could make a jumper that you could jumper across test points 7 and 8 with the connector installed to see if you get a flame. Make sure you can immediately secure the unit or you can burn it up because your bypassing ALL safety circuits. I.e jumper must be instantly removable. Total test time long enough to hear the burner light and shut the unit down.
I think you have a safety circuit problem but.... that should NOT give you an FL4 reading. A problem in the red wires off of T1 and T 2 would. Since your not getting power at T1 or T2 that leads me to believe there is a problem in the safety circuit mentioned above.
Feel free to ask any questions or make any comments here at any time.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Posted on Aug 17, 2011
SOURCE: Jandy Lite 2 325n, FL4
I had this exact problem. Easy fix. Because the heater is not used often, the relay to the right of the 6 pin harness was sticking. This resulted in no voltage between T1 and T2. A very light tap of the relay with a screwdriver handle loosened it and it cycles with no further issue.
Posted on Jun 03, 2013
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 21, 2014 | Jandy Laars LX Pool Heater / 400,000 BTU /...
Jul 26, 2014 | Pentair Minimax NT Heater
Aug 25, 2013 | Raypak Pool & Spa
Apr 23, 2012 | Jandy Legacy LRZ Natural Gas Heaters 325K...
Aug 27, 2011 | Jandy Lite 2 Natural Gas Pilot Light...
Aug 09, 2011 | Maytag 27" Built-In Double Electric Wall...
May 17, 2011 | Jandy Laars LX Pool Heater / 400,000 BTU /...
103 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: