Question about Maytag Washing Machines

2 Answers

Trying to remove drain assembly. down to plastic hub have removed five screws but can't remove plastic hub over drain. have dropped a socket fitting underneath and need to remove help! old unit, model #DWU8860BAB

Posted by on

  • mertputerbau Feb 08, 2010

    I believe I'm at the level of part 14 . it seems to be connected to the pump shaft. a plastic disc covers base obscuring the drain therefore I can't retrieve the socket fitting. would the pump spiit out the fitting though the drain tube without damaging the pump?

×

Ad

2 Answers

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 401 Answers

First you have to remove the wash arm with a plastic nut in the center,seems to me there is more than five screws holding the cover on its like seven torks then you can remove the cover, under you will see a round filter, pull it off then there is i think six 5 /16th screws holding the impeller cover on,if this is the part that is stuck, i have seen the bottom of that cover seperate and fuse with the impeller. it should lift straight off if not you need to carefully pry it off with a flat head,work around untill it loosens up. you may need to replace the impeller cap if the round disc seperated from the cap. good luck!
ERIC

Posted on Feb 09, 2010

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Maytag Master
  • 19,396 Answers

DWU8860BAB is a dishwasher, therefore it will sue same impeller pump for drain and recirculate.

If the problem is removing the pump.

After removing the plastic lock, the spindle arm and the screws, all you need to do is lifting gently the pump assembly.

Please refer to diagram below to tell us what part of the assembly you have done already:

trying to remove drain assembly. down to plastic - c06ab61.gif


Check also this link :

Do-It-Yourselfer' stories about installing this part

Please identify the part

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Belt continues to slip off


Replacement Parts for Fitness Exercise Equipment at SPORTSMITH

This video covers the installation and adjustment of the Eccentric Hub Assembly for the Stairmaster 4400PT/CL and 4600PT/CL Steppers.
The video begins with the Eccentric Hub Assembly removed from the unit. If you need help removing the Eccentric Hub Assembly from your stepper, please see our video about the Eccentric Hub Assembly Removal.
Tools Needed: Socket Wrench, 7/16" Socket, Adjustable Wrench or 7/16" Wrench
  • Begin by placing your HTD toothed belt around its pulleys. This allows you to set the proper belt tension before mounting the Eccentric Hub Assembly to the frame. The "egg" shape of the Eccentric Hub allows for adjustment of the belt tension. Rotate the hub counter clockwise to tension the belt. Proper belt tension allows about ¼" of play.
  • Line up the 4 bolts through the Eccentric Hub Assembly and the frame. Be sure to place the bolts facing the same direction as noted from removal of the old Eccentric Hub Assembly.
  • Once all the bolts are aligned, retighten them to the frame using the socket wrench with socket on one side and the other wrench on the opposite side.
  • Reinstall the poly-v alternator belt.
  • The Eccentric Hub Assembly installation and adjustment is now complete.

Stairmaster 4400 4600 Eccentric Hub Installation Adjustment

Sep 30, 2013 | Stairmaster 4400 PT Stair Stepper

1 Answer

Instructions and diagram,to remove and replace rear drum brakes


1984 Ford Tempo - Rear Drum brake drum/shoes
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures below instructions

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.

2. Remove the wheel, tire, hub and finally, the drum assembly.

3. Using a spring removal tool, remove the horizontal securing spring at the top first of the assembly.

4. Pull the adjuster locking plate away from the shoes.

5. Remove the lower horizontal securing spring.

6. Unfasten one of the 2 shoe hold-down springs and remove the pin.

7. Remove the brake adjuster.

8. Remove the remaining hold down spring and clip.

9. Lift the brake shoes assembly off the backing plate and wheel cylinder assembly. Be careful not to bend adjusting lever during the removal process.

10. Remove the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever.

11. Remove the horseshoe retaining clip and spring washer and slide the lever off the parking brake lever pin on the trailing shoe.



To install:

12. Apply a light coating of high temperature grease at the points where the brake shoes contact the backing plate.

13. Apply a light coating of lubricant to the adjuster screw threads and the socket end of the adjusting screw. Turn the adjusting screw into the adjusting pivot nut to the limit of the threads and then back-off 1 / 2 turn.

14. Assemble the parking brake lever to the trailing shoe by installing the spring washer and a new horseshoe retaining clip. Crimp the clip until it retains the lever to the shoe securely.

15. Attach the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever.

16. Attach the lower retracting spring to the leading and trailing shoe assemblies and install to backing plate. It will be necessary to stretch the retracting spring as the shoes are installed downward over the anchor plate to inside of shoe retaining plate.

17. Install the adjuster screw assembly between the leading shoe slot and the slot in the trailing shoe and parking brake lever. The adjuster socket end slot must fit into the trailing shoe and parking brake lever.



The adjuster socket blade is marked R or L for the right or left brake assemblies. The R or L adjuster blade must be installed with the letter R or L in the upright position, facing the wheel cylinder, on the correct side to ensure that the deeper of the 2 slots in the adjuster sockets fits into the parking brake lever.

18. Assemble the adjuster lever in the groove located in the parking brake lever pin and into the slot of the adjuster socket that fits into the trailing shoe web.

19. Attach the upper retracting spring to the leading shoe slot. Using a suitable spring tool, stretch the other end of the spring into the notch on the adjuster lever. If the adjuster lever does not contact the star wheel after installing the spring, it is possible that the adjuster socket is installed incorrectly.

20. Inspect your work to make sure it is correct.

21. Install the hub/drum and wheel/tire assemblies and adjust the wheel bearings.

22. Lower the vehicle and check brake operation.


archaeology_43.jpg

Fig.1 Exploded View of Rear Brakes - 1984 Ford Tempo

archaeology_44.jpg

Fig 2. Remove the brake shoe upper retaining spring with a suitable removal tool.


archaeology_45.jpg
Fig.3 Removed retaining spring - note spring direction.

archaeology_46.jpg

Fig.4 Remove the adjuster lock plate. Note the direction of the tab.

archaeology_47.jpg

Fig.5 Remove the lower retaining spring.

archaeology_48.jpg

Fig.6 Remove the Hold Down Spring - note brake spring tool used.

archaeology_49.jpg

Fig.7 remove the shoe adjuster. Note direction of the adjuster spline.

archaeology_50.jpg

Fig.8 Remove the hand brake cable.

archaeology_51.jpg

Fig.9 Remove the final brake shoe.

archaeology_52.jpg

Fig.10 All removed parts in order and properly oriented for re-assembly.

Apr 17, 2011 | 1984 Ford Tempo

1 Answer

How to change a front turn light in a 1996 taurus.


Lamps, Parking Front Lamp-Lamp Assembly, Taurus
Removal and Installation
  1. Remove Headlamp (13008) as outlined.
Headlamp Assembly
Removal and Installation
  1. ani_caut.gif WARNING: THE REPLACEABLE HALOGEN HEADLAMP BULB CONTAINS GAS UNDER PRESSURE. THE HALOGEN HEADLAMP BULB MAY SHATTER IF THE GLASS ENVELOPE IS SCRATCHED OR THE HALOGEN HEADLAMP BULB IS DROPPED. HANDLE HALOGEN HEADLAMP BULB CAREFULLY. GRASP HALOGEN HEADLAMP BULB ONLY BY ITS PLASTIC BASE. AVOID TOUCHING GLASS ENVELOPE. KEEP HALOGEN HEADLAMP BULB OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
    Position headlamp switch (11654) and headlamp time delay switch (13736) in the OFF position.
  1. Remove two bolts retaining headlamp (13008) to upper support assembly and loosen pinch bolt. Remove headlamp assembly from vehicle.
  1. Remove park lamp bulb and socket (Sable only) and headlamp bulb and socket from Headlamp Assembly as outlined.


    Headlamp Assembly (Taurus Shown, Sable Similar)


    k24744a.gif
  1. Turn lamp socket and wiring (13410) assembly 1/2 turn counterclockwise and remove from parking lamp (13200) housing.
  1. Remove screw from park/turn signal housing.
  1. Using 1/4 inch drive socket extension and swivel, insert tool through two access holes in upper radiator support. Remove screws from park/turn signal housing.
  1. Remove parking lamp from vehicle.
  1. To install, reverse Removal procedure.


    Front Lamp-Lamp Assembly, Taurus


    k23818a.gif

Nov 19, 2010 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Change radiator


I pulled my radiator and condensor on my 2002 Impala with 3.8L.
I did a full write-up at:
http://www.naioa.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=31404
www.naioa.com in the Knowlege Database of the Forum.
You may have to register for free to get access?

Here's the text without the pictures:

2002 Impala LS w/ 3800 V6

Disclaimers:
References to bolt sizes are for the hex head or socket size and not the thread size.
I apologize for any errors or omissions.

Remove the cross braces.
Using a 13mm socket, remove the three bolts from each brace. The braces are located behind each headlight and attached to the fenders.

Remove the radiator over-flow clamp and hose

Remove battery.
It's always a good practice to remove the negative cable. I had to remove the battery later because the radiator wouldn't quite clear. So, while you have the 8mm socket out, take off the positive cable. Grab the 13mm again and remove the battery hold-down, and out with the battery.
Air Deflector
The lower air deflector is held on with five 10mm screws. I took mine off because I was working on the floor and it gave me quite a bit more clearance.

Remove air filter/box
Unplug the sensor in the rubber inlet tube.
Pull the inlet tube off the throttle body.
Unsnap the two clips for the air filter. Remove the filter cover and inlet tube.
Remove the air filter (Does it look OK? Well, at least shake it out a little.)
Remove the two 8mm bolts from the top of the box, and remove the top half of the box and exposing the control module.
Slide the control module out. (I choose to unscrew the two 7mm bolts and remove the ECM, but I don't think you need to.)
Grab the remaining half of the air box and pull it straight up. (There are two plastic pins under the box that are plugged into some rubber grommets in the body.)

Drain the radiator
Remove the radiator cap.
Open the drain plug located on the driver's side of the radiator; facing rewards.
(I chose to pull the lower radiator hose off to drain the radiator.)

Engine Cover
I removed the engine cover in order to have better access to the motor mount bolts..
Unscrew the oil filler cap AND tube from the valve cover.
Pull the engine cover up and forward.
Replace the oil filler tube and cap (to plug the hole).

Motor Mounts
I placed a jack and a piece of wood under the engine oil pan to support the engine before removing the upper motor mounts. (Many people think this is not such a good idea, and recommend using a strap across the top of the engine.)
For maximum clearance, you should remove the entire engine mount.
Using a 13mm socket remove the 4 bolts from each mount at the radiator support.
Use a 15mm(?) socket and wrench to remove the two cross bolts nearest the engine.
Fan Assembly
Remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator.
Remove the spring clip directly above the passenger fan
Remove the two top rubber mounts using a 10mm socket. There is one bolt for each mount.
Using the same 10mm socket, remove the two bolts on the sides, about halfway down the radiator.
Unplug both fans.
Unclip the wire harness for the fans in 3 places. (I hate those things, but try not to break them)
Unclip both transmission lines are from the bottom of the fan assembly.
The hardness part - remove the plastic trim retainer at the bottom of the fan assembly (to radiator), It is straight below the driver's side fan. This retainer can be accessed thru the oval hole of the lower radiator support (uncovered by removing the air deflector).
Two hooks on each side of the radiator are supporting the fan assembly. Lift the assembly up off the hooks and remove.

Radiator
If you have not done so already, you need to drain the radiator.
Unplug the coolant level sensor on the passenger side.
Remove the spring clamps and the upper and lower hoses with pliers or channel locks.
Remove the transmission lines. Twist and slide the plastic covers back from the line fittings. Remove the trans lines. (Watch for the washer-like seals that will fall out). Trans oil will come out. Try not to mix with your coolant.
Remove the radiator.

Installing the Radiator
Important! Remember the rubber upper mounts for the fan assembly? The 10mm bolts were screwed into a couple fold-over nuts that were clipped to the upper rad support. You need to find those nuts now! Mine were loose and one fell inside the rad support and then I managed to drop it between the radiator and the condenser.

Set the radiator in place. The two pins on the bottom of the radiator will fit into the rubber grommets in the lower rad support.
Make sure that the radiator isn't touching the condenser. There should be rubber at all four corners (from the condenser mounts). Use a flashlight and look between the radiator and condensor. I had an issue with the lower driver's side.
Attach the lower radiator hose.
Attach both transmission lines (w/ round seals)
Save the upper radiator hose and coolant overflow for later

Install the other parts in the reverse order of disassembly
Fan assembly
Motor mounts
Engine cover
Air filter box
Air deflector
Battery
Cross braces

Finally...
Attach the upper radiator hose.
Did you plug in the coolant sensor?
Did you attach the coolant overflow hose?
Radiator cap.
Check the transmission fluid level.
And don't forget the coolant...

Good luck!

Sep 15, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Impala

2 Answers

I need to replace the front turn signal light socket on a 2000 Chevy Venture, but i don't know how to get it out and i can't find a replacement. How do i get it out?


There are detailed instructions in the the manual. If you do not have a manual, here is how to do it (directions assume removing drivers-side headlight assembly and viewing the area from the front of the van): Remove the thumb screw on the left side of the headlight assembly as well as the thumb screw on the top of the head light assembly. The third thumb screw simply anchors the turn-signal assembly to the head light assembly. Initially, just loosen that screw. The whole assembly is now loose but still held in by two plastic posts on the bottom of the headlight assembly and two plastic posts on the end of the turn-signal assembly closest to the fender/wheel area. Pull the whole assembly kind of up, out, and down. It takes a bit of juggling but it will come out. Once the whole assembly is out you can separate the turn-signal assembly from the head light assembly and put the headlight assembly back in place. To separate the assemblies remove the third thumb screw (if its too tight to remove by hand you will need a Torx screw driver of size T-30; if you don't have a Torx a small flathead screw can work); also, you will notice the hidden clip that is the final anchor holding the turn-signal assembly to the head light assembly. Use a flat-head screw driver to release it. Now the units should be separated. To remove the turn signal bulb socket from the turn-signal assembly, simply turn it counter-clockwise while pressing down on the safety clip and pull it out of the back of the turn-signal assembly. The owners manual lists the type of bulb. It should be an amber 3157. The bulb pulls straight out of the socket.

Replace the bulb. Place the socket back into the turn-signal assembly (turn it clockwise until the safety clip snaps). Replace the Headlight assembly (two thumb screws and the two plastic alignment posts anchor it), but do not tighten the screws until the turn-signal assembly is in place. Replace the turn-signal assembly by first aligning the plastic posts and then anchoring it to the head light assembly with the third thumb screw. Make sure everything is aligned properly and tight all the thumb screws. An experienced person can probably make this change, start to finish, in 15 minutes. First timers will probably take 30 minutes as it takes some time to understand how the designers anchored everything.

Good luck and thank you for using Fixya

Mar 07, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Venture

4 Answers

How do I change the brake light bulb in my 2004 Honda odyssey


One comment - having just replaced a bulb. After you remove the two screws - the assemby will be loose, but doesn't just slide back. There is a plastic pressure fitting that will hold the assembly in place. Applying force to pull the assembly out caused me to crack the plastic panel where the two screws go. So don't do that! I found that applying a bit of pressure - via a flat tip screwdriver - between the assembly and the car body "popped" the plastic pressure fitting and allowed me to change the bulb. I was applying pressure to drive the assembly toward the rear of the car(and slightly up). Reassembly was just a matter of 1) gluing the cracked plastic back in place 2) aligning the white plastic pressure fitting into its receiver and 3) replacing the screws and covers. Hope this was helpful

Dec 13, 2009 | 2004 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

Lower dash removal of 93 vw cabriolet to change ignition switch


You'll need to remove the steering wheel, 15/16th inch socket, the column top and bottom cover, remove the 3 screws holding on the turn signal and wiper stocks. Unplug and remove the stocks. Remove the black plastic sleeve on the hub. Remove the 1 allen bolt holding the lock cylinder/switch assembly. Remove assembly, there is a phillips screw holding the ignition switch in the assembly, remove that screw and pull out the ignition switch.

Nov 27, 2009 | 1993 Volkswagen Cabriolet

1 Answer

Hi I have a ford transit 04 2.4 chassis cab TDIC HOW TO FIT DICS


hi you need a very large socket i think its 65 12 corner, and yes u have to take disc of hub etc.

Apr 12, 2009 | 2004 Ford F350

2 Answers

Removing rear light assembly on honda odyssey 2006


Yes, there is a "spear point" plastic clip that is still engaged into a socket type holder in the front outboard portion of the tail lamp assembly. Pry gently with a tape wrapped screwdriver at the front outboard corner of the assembly and the clip will release. You will then be able to see how the clip works and will be able to align and engage it first when replacing the tail lamp assembly.

-T

Jan 24, 2009 | 2007 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

1996 ford bronco


Good lighting will help. Also, use a brake cleaner spray or penetrant to clean things off so you can see .I have a 1996 F150 with push button 4WD with manual locking hubs. Dana 44 axle. Yours may be similar. For front wheel, remove locking ring just inside the inner edge of the hub housing (once you remove the manual hub locking switch, 6 screws on mine, could be 3 on others). Not conspicuous, took me awhile to find. Your hub locking assembly will appear to be recessed just behind its edge goes around outer circumferance. Next, Remove the locking spring (looks like a washer) around the very end of the spline shaft. This is towards the center around the shaft. There is a silver looking retainer ring you have too pull it over, use very small standard screwdriver. Locking mechanism should pull right out after that, giving you access to the outer bearing adjustment nut. Use 4 prong wheel bearing nut socket readily available at auto parts stores. Remove adjustment nut. Next, remove spacer that fits into keyway on shaft. There is nothing holding it on, just pull it off. Beneath that there is another bearing nut, remove this also with 4 prong socket. Just pull hub off after removed. Sometimes rust will keep you from removing at this point. Just get a good penetrant lubricant, spray on and let soak, repaeat if necessary . You can also get a plastic 4lb+ dead blow hammer to assist. Bang on rotor from inside to out. Be prepared to service wheel bearings, they fit into the inside of the rotor/hub assembly and will be dislodged when you remove it. This is as far as I have gotten myself. Good Luck.

Oct 21, 2008 | 1996 Ford Bronco

Not finding what you are looking for?
Washing Machines Logo

Related Topics:

21 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Maytag Washing Machines Experts

Bill Long

Level 3 Expert

587 Answers

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4654 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Are you a Maytag Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...