Question about Maytag Washing Machines

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Trying to remove drain assembly. down to plastic hub have removed five screws but can't remove plastic hub over drain. have dropped a socket fitting underneath and need to remove help! old unit, model #DWU8860BAB

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  • mertputerbau Feb 08, 2010

    I believe I'm at the level of part 14 . it seems to be connected to the pump shaft. a plastic disc covers base obscuring the drain therefore I can't retrieve the socket fitting. would the pump spiit out the fitting though the drain tube without damaging the pump?



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First you have to remove the wash arm with a plastic nut in the center,seems to me there is more than five screws holding the cover on its like seven torks then you can remove the cover, under you will see a round filter, pull it off then there is i think six 5 /16th screws holding the impeller cover on,if this is the part that is stuck, i have seen the bottom of that cover seperate and fuse with the impeller. it should lift straight off if not you need to carefully pry it off with a flat head,work around untill it loosens up. you may need to replace the impeller cap if the round disc seperated from the cap. good luck!

Posted on Feb 09, 2010

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DWU8860BAB is a dishwasher, therefore it will sue same impeller pump for drain and recirculate.

If the problem is removing the pump.

After removing the plastic lock, the spindle arm and the screws, all you need to do is lifting gently the pump assembly.

Please refer to diagram below to tell us what part of the assembly you have done already:

trying to remove drain assembly. down to plastic - c06ab61.gif

Check also this link :

Do-It-Yourselfer' stories about installing this part

Please identify the part

Posted on Feb 08, 2010


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This video covers the installation and adjustment of the Eccentric Hub Assembly for the Stairmaster 4400PT/CL and 4600PT/CL Steppers.
The video begins with the Eccentric Hub Assembly removed from the unit. If you need help removing the Eccentric Hub Assembly from your stepper, please see our video about the Eccentric Hub Assembly Removal.
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Instructions and diagram,to remove and replace rear drum brakes

1984 Ford Tempo - Rear Drum brake drum/shoes

See Figures below instructions

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.

2. Remove the wheel, tire, hub and finally, the drum assembly.

3. Using a spring removal tool, remove the horizontal securing spring at the top first of the assembly.

4. Pull the adjuster locking plate away from the shoes.

5. Remove the lower horizontal securing spring.

6. Unfasten one of the 2 shoe hold-down springs and remove the pin.

7. Remove the brake adjuster.

8. Remove the remaining hold down spring and clip.

9. Lift the brake shoes assembly off the backing plate and wheel cylinder assembly. Be careful not to bend adjusting lever during the removal process.

10. Remove the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever.

11. Remove the horseshoe retaining clip and spring washer and slide the lever off the parking brake lever pin on the trailing shoe.

To install:

12. Apply a light coating of high temperature grease at the points where the brake shoes contact the backing plate.

13. Apply a light coating of lubricant to the adjuster screw threads and the socket end of the adjusting screw. Turn the adjusting screw into the adjusting pivot nut to the limit of the threads and then back-off 1 / 2 turn.

14. Assemble the parking brake lever to the trailing shoe by installing the spring washer and a new horseshoe retaining clip. Crimp the clip until it retains the lever to the shoe securely.

15. Attach the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever.

16. Attach the lower retracting spring to the leading and trailing shoe assemblies and install to backing plate. It will be necessary to stretch the retracting spring as the shoes are installed downward over the anchor plate to inside of shoe retaining plate.

17. Install the adjuster screw assembly between the leading shoe slot and the slot in the trailing shoe and parking brake lever. The adjuster socket end slot must fit into the trailing shoe and parking brake lever.

The adjuster socket blade is marked R or L for the right or left brake assemblies. The R or L adjuster blade must be installed with the letter R or L in the upright position, facing the wheel cylinder, on the correct side to ensure that the deeper of the 2 slots in the adjuster sockets fits into the parking brake lever.

18. Assemble the adjuster lever in the groove located in the parking brake lever pin and into the slot of the adjuster socket that fits into the trailing shoe web.

19. Attach the upper retracting spring to the leading shoe slot. Using a suitable spring tool, stretch the other end of the spring into the notch on the adjuster lever. If the adjuster lever does not contact the star wheel after installing the spring, it is possible that the adjuster socket is installed incorrectly.

20. Inspect your work to make sure it is correct.

21. Install the hub/drum and wheel/tire assemblies and adjust the wheel bearings.

22. Lower the vehicle and check brake operation.


Fig.1 Exploded View of Rear Brakes - 1984 Ford Tempo


Fig 2. Remove the brake shoe upper retaining spring with a suitable removal tool.

Fig.3 Removed retaining spring - note spring direction.


Fig.4 Remove the adjuster lock plate. Note the direction of the tab.


Fig.5 Remove the lower retaining spring.


Fig.6 Remove the Hold Down Spring - note brake spring tool used.


Fig.7 remove the shoe adjuster. Note direction of the adjuster spline.


Fig.8 Remove the hand brake cable.


Fig.9 Remove the final brake shoe.


Fig.10 All removed parts in order and properly oriented for re-assembly.

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How to change a front turn light in a 1996 taurus.

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Change radiator

I pulled my radiator and condensor on my 2002 Impala with 3.8L.
I did a full write-up at: in the Knowlege Database of the Forum.
You may have to register for free to get access?

Here's the text without the pictures:

2002 Impala LS w/ 3800 V6

References to bolt sizes are for the hex head or socket size and not the thread size.
I apologize for any errors or omissions.

Remove the cross braces.
Using a 13mm socket, remove the three bolts from each brace. The braces are located behind each headlight and attached to the fenders.

Remove the radiator over-flow clamp and hose

Remove battery.
It's always a good practice to remove the negative cable. I had to remove the battery later because the radiator wouldn't quite clear. So, while you have the 8mm socket out, take off the positive cable. Grab the 13mm again and remove the battery hold-down, and out with the battery.
Air Deflector
The lower air deflector is held on with five 10mm screws. I took mine off because I was working on the floor and it gave me quite a bit more clearance.

Remove air filter/box
Unplug the sensor in the rubber inlet tube.
Pull the inlet tube off the throttle body.
Unsnap the two clips for the air filter. Remove the filter cover and inlet tube.
Remove the air filter (Does it look OK? Well, at least shake it out a little.)
Remove the two 8mm bolts from the top of the box, and remove the top half of the box and exposing the control module.
Slide the control module out. (I choose to unscrew the two 7mm bolts and remove the ECM, but I don't think you need to.)
Grab the remaining half of the air box and pull it straight up. (There are two plastic pins under the box that are plugged into some rubber grommets in the body.)

Drain the radiator
Remove the radiator cap.
Open the drain plug located on the driver's side of the radiator; facing rewards.
(I chose to pull the lower radiator hose off to drain the radiator.)

Engine Cover
I removed the engine cover in order to have better access to the motor mount bolts..
Unscrew the oil filler cap AND tube from the valve cover.
Pull the engine cover up and forward.
Replace the oil filler tube and cap (to plug the hole).

Motor Mounts
I placed a jack and a piece of wood under the engine oil pan to support the engine before removing the upper motor mounts. (Many people think this is not such a good idea, and recommend using a strap across the top of the engine.)
For maximum clearance, you should remove the entire engine mount.
Using a 13mm socket remove the 4 bolts from each mount at the radiator support.
Use a 15mm(?) socket and wrench to remove the two cross bolts nearest the engine.
Fan Assembly
Remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator.
Remove the spring clip directly above the passenger fan
Remove the two top rubber mounts using a 10mm socket. There is one bolt for each mount.
Using the same 10mm socket, remove the two bolts on the sides, about halfway down the radiator.
Unplug both fans.
Unclip the wire harness for the fans in 3 places. (I hate those things, but try not to break them)
Unclip both transmission lines are from the bottom of the fan assembly.
The hardness part - remove the plastic trim retainer at the bottom of the fan assembly (to radiator), It is straight below the driver's side fan. This retainer can be accessed thru the oval hole of the lower radiator support (uncovered by removing the air deflector).
Two hooks on each side of the radiator are supporting the fan assembly. Lift the assembly up off the hooks and remove.

If you have not done so already, you need to drain the radiator.
Unplug the coolant level sensor on the passenger side.
Remove the spring clamps and the upper and lower hoses with pliers or channel locks.
Remove the transmission lines. Twist and slide the plastic covers back from the line fittings. Remove the trans lines. (Watch for the washer-like seals that will fall out). Trans oil will come out. Try not to mix with your coolant.
Remove the radiator.

Installing the Radiator
Important! Remember the rubber upper mounts for the fan assembly? The 10mm bolts were screwed into a couple fold-over nuts that were clipped to the upper rad support. You need to find those nuts now! Mine were loose and one fell inside the rad support and then I managed to drop it between the radiator and the condenser.

Set the radiator in place. The two pins on the bottom of the radiator will fit into the rubber grommets in the lower rad support.
Make sure that the radiator isn't touching the condenser. There should be rubber at all four corners (from the condenser mounts). Use a flashlight and look between the radiator and condensor. I had an issue with the lower driver's side.
Attach the lower radiator hose.
Attach both transmission lines (w/ round seals)
Save the upper radiator hose and coolant overflow for later

Install the other parts in the reverse order of disassembly
Fan assembly
Motor mounts
Engine cover
Air filter box
Air deflector
Cross braces

Attach the upper radiator hose.
Did you plug in the coolant sensor?
Did you attach the coolant overflow hose?
Radiator cap.
Check the transmission fluid level.
And don't forget the coolant...

Good luck!

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There are detailed instructions in the the manual. If you do not have a manual, here is how to do it (directions assume removing drivers-side headlight assembly and viewing the area from the front of the van): Remove the thumb screw on the left side of the headlight assembly as well as the thumb screw on the top of the head light assembly. The third thumb screw simply anchors the turn-signal assembly to the head light assembly. Initially, just loosen that screw. The whole assembly is now loose but still held in by two plastic posts on the bottom of the headlight assembly and two plastic posts on the end of the turn-signal assembly closest to the fender/wheel area. Pull the whole assembly kind of up, out, and down. It takes a bit of juggling but it will come out. Once the whole assembly is out you can separate the turn-signal assembly from the head light assembly and put the headlight assembly back in place. To separate the assemblies remove the third thumb screw (if its too tight to remove by hand you will need a Torx screw driver of size T-30; if you don't have a Torx a small flathead screw can work); also, you will notice the hidden clip that is the final anchor holding the turn-signal assembly to the head light assembly. Use a flat-head screw driver to release it. Now the units should be separated. To remove the turn signal bulb socket from the turn-signal assembly, simply turn it counter-clockwise while pressing down on the safety clip and pull it out of the back of the turn-signal assembly. The owners manual lists the type of bulb. It should be an amber 3157. The bulb pulls straight out of the socket.

Replace the bulb. Place the socket back into the turn-signal assembly (turn it clockwise until the safety clip snaps). Replace the Headlight assembly (two thumb screws and the two plastic alignment posts anchor it), but do not tighten the screws until the turn-signal assembly is in place. Replace the turn-signal assembly by first aligning the plastic posts and then anchoring it to the head light assembly with the third thumb screw. Make sure everything is aligned properly and tight all the thumb screws. An experienced person can probably make this change, start to finish, in 15 minutes. First timers will probably take 30 minutes as it takes some time to understand how the designers anchored everything.

Good luck and thank you for using Fixya

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