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With a TON of TV Sets, today... the Power Supply Boards have a tendency to go bad. Most of them use a very cheap and unreliable capacitor brand for the Boards and these capacitors are known to blow. If you have the back off of your TV Set - take a look at the Board where your Power Plug is inserted. Look at the top of the capacitors. If any of them are "Domed" (i.e. not completely flat) on top, the + shows any separation (this is the scoring on top of the capacitor, in the shape of a "+"), you can see where any liquid has come up out of the top, etc... you have a bad capacitor. You can, of course, replace these capacitors, but most people find it easier to just buy a new Power Supply Board... for they are easy to install. Hope this helps. Btw- if you look @ the capacitor and are not sure what to look for - just Google "pictures of bad capacitors" and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about. Good luck!!
the back light went out the pop was either a capacitor aor a fuse blowing seeingas you sill have a shadowy picture it would most likely be the capacitor for the back light supply. Most repair shops should be able to replace the capacitor for you or if you feel like doing it yourself you willneed a soldering iron, solder, de-soldering iron or simialr, the repalcement part. to locate the blown capacitor just look for a burn part on the board.
this is a common problem with the capacitor, try opening your monitor and see if there is a capacitor swalow like gonna blow... the capacitor has a form like a AA battery... if changing the capacitor the problem persist maybe is a problem with the board and you need to search if the board have continous power....
Sometime the fuse will just blow bcause someone slowly opened the door without pressing STOP or PAUSE first. The door interlock switch at that point will blow the fuse.
Usually the reason the fuse blows is that the HV Diode has failed. You check this with a multi meter on resistance by reading across the 2 terminals AFTER making sure the capacitor no longer has a charge on it by grounding across the 2 capacitor terminals at least 3 times. The diode will read continuity in one direction only. (reversing the leads)
Also the HV capacitor can have failed by shorting out.
The HV Cap should show a jump on an analog meter as you reverse the leads then return to infinity.
Lastly the Magnetron can have failed. (Short)
All of the above are checked using an analog multimeter. Nothing fancy... a $5.00 meter will do the trick.
The replacement fuse will either be 15 A or 20 A. Look at the markings on the old fuse and replace it with a like fuse. HOWEVER... if any of the above problems still exist the fuse will just blow again.
Most likely a bad motor or bad capacitor. I would check the capacitor first as this is probably a $20 fix. The fact that it runs in the correct direction but at a reduced speed really leans hard to the capacitor.
Good Luck and hope this resolves things for you. Let me know.
I don't know about the ground sensors, I do know they are a safety feature so it won't come down on something if the eyes are blocked. Try replacing the bad "eye"
For the buzzing noise, check the capacitor to see if it has blown out and requires replacement. To test this, you should be able to disconnect the door, open it manually, reconnect the door to the carriage assembly, and close the door using the GDO. The capacitor is only used to give the machine enough power to initially lift the door. It does not use the capacitor to close. Other signs to a blown capacitor is white secretion physically coming out of the capacitor. Get the MFD (microfarad) number range off the capacitor and the voltage (usually 220 volts, possiblye 330.) and find a replacement capacitor for the brand of your opener.