Question about Avanti FF501W Top Freezer Refrigerator

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Termination switch who do i get in contact with to get the termination switch that clamps to the evaporator coil?

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Avanti Customer Service 800 323 5029

Posted on Aug 11, 2008

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Frozen evaporator coil


if the evaporator coil is frozen over,then most likely the defrost terminator is bad its located on the top of the evaporator coil and is about 1" round,to test it it needs to be below 15 degrees as this is a bi-metal switch operated by temperature,it will show close to zero ohms when its cold if its good,otherwise the defrost heating element can be open its located under the evaporator coil,but its a calrod element and they usually dont go bad,you can check this with an ohmmeter also and will have anywhere from 20 to 75 ohms,if these are both ok,then the defrost timer or ADC automatic defrost timer can be bad depending on which system your unit incorporatesl

Aug 25, 2012 | Amana 22.6 cu. ft. Side-By-Side...

4 Answers

Ice develops at back of fridge


hi chris
dave here hope i can help

I would test the defrost timer, defrost heater or defrost limit switch

TESTING AND REPLACING THE DEFROST TIMER
This timer activates the heater that melts frost in the evaporator for 10 to 20 minutes every 10 to 12 hours. In the process, it turns the compressor off and on. If it fails, the compressor may not run. Or the heater may not go on, eventually causing a hidden ice buildup that blocks the cold-air flow and disables the evaporator fan. An access hole lets you test the timer. If the timer isn't in the control panel, look behind the front grille or behind the rear access panel. If the compressor fails to run turn the timer until it clicks. If compressor goes on, timer is faulty. If unit isn't defrosting automatically and turning timer stops compressor or fan, timer is faulty.
Before replacing timer, spray it with electrical contact cleaner through access hole and turn it a few times. Stop just before a click and wait to see if timer advances on its own.
To replace timer, unplug the refrigerator and open control panel. Remove screws holding timer to panel and pull of leads. If wires aren't in a plug, move then one at a time to new timer.

EVAPORATOR AND DEFROST HEATER
In a frost-free unit, the evaporator coils, their fan, and the deforst heater are located behind the freezer's back wall or under its floor. The fan, which circulates cold air between the coils and the two food compartments, is controlled by the door switch, the thermostat, or both. To check the fan, open both doors, wait for the compressor to go on, and hold in the door switch. If you can't hear the fan running, test the fan(below).
The defrost heater, which melts frost on the coils, is cycled on by the defrost timer(above). If the frost melts before the end of the defrost cycle, the defrost limit switch turns the heater off. The heater may be a metal rod, a wire wrapped in foil, or a coil inside a glass tube. All are tested the same way. Test terminals for the heater are often located in the control panel or under a doorjamb; check the wiring diagram. Or test the heater leads inside the evaporator compartment.

TESTING THE EVAPORATOR FAN
To remove the evaporator fan, unplug unit; open back panel(or floor) of freezer. Then unscrew housing holding fan, and take off leads going to fan motor. With VOM(Volt-Ohm Meter) on RX1, probe motor terminals(except green ground wire terminal). Look for moderate resistance(50 to 200 ohms). Replace fan if much lower or infinity.

TESTING THE DEFROST HEATER
Open control panel. With VOM on RX1, probe test terminals. Look for 15-to 100-ohm reading. If infinity, turn defrost timer(as above); retest.

TESTING DEFROST LIMIT SWITCH
Trace and disconnect leads. With VOM on RX1, probe leads. Look for infinity reading when switch is warm, zero after 20 minutes in working freezer.

Hope this sources your problem
Thank you for using Fixya.com

Jul 20, 2008 | AEG Santo U 86000i Compact Refrigerator

2 Answers

Coil in freezer icing up and auto defrost not working.the heat strip at bottom of coil is not going on and ice build up on coil cuts cold air supply to refigerated side of refrigerator.is there a sensor...


Your fridge is probably suffering from a defrost circuit failure. One (or possibly more) of the following components has failed: 1) the defrost terminator or sensor, 2) the defrost heating element or 3) the defrost controller / timer. Items 1 & 2 should be found in the freezer compartment - behind the back wall. The 3rd item can often be found in the toe space at the bottom of the fridge - behind a kick plate or some other relatively accessible location.

The operation is as follows: The defrost timer runs constantly and about every 8 hours or so, it switches the power from the compressor and its associated controls (fresh food compartment t-stat, etc.) to the defrost circuit that consists of a heating element and a device called a defrost terminator. Power is applied for about 15 to 20 minutes during which time the defrost heater is energized IF the defrost terminator detects the evaporator coil compartment temperature is cold. When the defrost terminator detects that the heater has warmed the evaporator coil compartment to a temperature of about 50 degrees OR the timer has powered the defrost circuit for 15 to 20 minutes, the defrost circuit / heater de-enrgizes. Even if the heater is hasn't reached 50 degrees in the 15 -20 minutes, the timer switches from the defrost circuit back to the compressor through its controls once again. You'll need to determine if 1) the timer is timing, 2) the timer switch can actually send power to the defrost circuit, 3) the defrost terminator can close when cold - or if it is stuck open, or 4) the heater works.

If you don't know how to work with electrical meters and tools or are not comfortable working in tight spaces (back wall of the freezer) with live electric parts, you should call a repair person. Also, refrigerants are very dangerous. If allowed to escape from the tubing, coils, etc. there is a very real danger of instant frostbite if it comes in contact with your skin. You can be blinded if it contacts your eyes. These above reasons make me believe that this is a pretty complicated DIY type job and really isn't a good one for a beginner to attempt. On the plus side, parts are relatively inexpensive, and a qualified person should be able to quickly diagnose the problem. Labor rates and standard parts markup can bring this repair up into $200 and up range, however.

If / when you do call for service, having the freezer emptied & defrosted already - will save the cost of defrosting time by the repair person.

I hope this was helpful and good luck. Please rate my reply. Thank you.

Apr 08, 2011 | Amana ARS266ZB Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Stopped cooling


Since you didn't provide a make / model for the fridge, a generic checklist is provided below. The cause may be no power at outlet, thermostat position, and then deeper - components within the fridge. You'll likely need a vacuum cleaner, hand tools, a schematic and some test equipment to check these devices, due to their location behind panels in the freezer or in the toe space area.

1) Check circuit breaker o fuse in electric panel.
2) Check for power at outlet.
3) Vacuum condenser coil behind / under fridge.
4) Check that thermostat was not turned up or set to "off".
5) Check for frost build up on evaporator coil and that fan is operating (if not repair / replace) in / behind freezer compartment - if clogged with ice, check:
6) Check for operational defrost timer & contacts.
7) Check for functional defrost terminator on evaporator coil.
8) Check defrost coil continuity - replace if open.

Oct 26, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Re GE TFX26ZP sid by side fridge Evaporator coil keep ice on it


the defrost thermostat should be clamped onto the evap coils..defrost timer should be under fridge. If this is a newer model, it might have an ecm ( comp control) on top of the compressor..

Sep 21, 2009 | GE GSL22JFR Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

When it goes into self-defrost mode, the freezer goes up to approx. 40 degrees, frost is on the items, the ice cream gets soft, and items start to get moisture in the wrappers or containers. Is this...


no it is not normal, your defrost termination switch is stuck or contacts are welded together, termination switch is there to protect from overheating of freezer, defrost timer puts system into and out of defrost but termination switch keeps the heaters from over heating the area, chances are you will need a defrost timer as well, manufactures recommend you change both when one or the other goes bad, also clean your condenser coil and make sure good ventilation around fridge bet there are lots of dust bunnies and plastic bags between the counter and fridge

Sep 17, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

G.E. side by side Freezer Coils and back wall full of ice.


If you replaced the "defrost timer", and the circulation fan runs ok before the ice buildup occurs, you will have to melt the ice so the panel will come off. Then, pull the back panel off and inspect to components. First, the defrost element and connections to it. If connections are good, disconnect 1 connector and check the resistance of the element itself with a ohmmeter. It should be 40-150 ohms, depending on the unit. If it is excessive or infinate, replace the element. If it is ok, leave the element disconnected and check the other component (defrost termination switch) which is clamped onto the evaporator coil and has two wires attached to it. It should read 0 to 2 ohms at room temprature, and no more than that as it is a temprature controlled switch. If it has excessive resistance, replace it. These are the only 2 components, aside from the defrost timer, that encompass the entire defrost circuit in most refrigerators.

Jul 30, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

The freezer automatic defroster element is not coming on enough to prevent ice build up on frezzer coils. Is there a way to trick system to make the hot coil work more. Often?


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes.
If yours is not staying on long enough the defrost thermostat may be defective and cutting it off too soon. It's clamped to the evaporator coil.
You have an adaptive defrost control which determines when and how long to defrost. I could be malfunctioning.

Jul 03, 2009 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Coils keep icing


If the evaporator coils are frosting up completely, you have a problem in your defrost system (heater, terminator or control).
If your product was built before May 2003 (last two letters of serial number CJ or before) you jump L-1 terminal (red wire) and test terminal (no wire in connector) with the blade of a screwdriver, using caution to avoid contact with the screwdriver blade.

If your unit was built after June 2003 (CL or later), turn the cold control all the way off, then all the way on 3 times in 6 seconds leaving it in the on position.

Those are the methods for forcing the adaptive control board into the defrost cycle. If the unit goes into defrost and stays in defrost, replace the control. If it comes right out of defrost, you have a bad heater or terminator. On your model both the heater and terminator come as a complete assembly.

The only other option would be a loose wire in the circuit.

May 02, 2009 | Maytag MSD2756GES Side by Side...

2 Answers

GE side by side problem


Before you waste any money my advice would be to defrost the the whole lot for 24 hours and then put it on... most times this works..

Dec 04, 2007 | Refrigerators

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