Question about Avanti FF501W Top Freezer Refrigerator

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Termination switch who do i get in contact with to get the termination switch that clamps to the evaporator coil?

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Avanti Customer Service 800 323 5029

Posted on Aug 11, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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For ranger new starter wont stop running


Starter Relay The starter motor solenoid relay switch (11450) consists of a pull-in coil, a contact disc, and two terminal contacts. Battery voltage is always present at the relay positive terminal. When the ignition switch (11572) is in the START position, the pull-in coil is activated and pulls the contact disc into contact with both terminal contacts. This allows battery current to pass through the starter motor solenoid relay switch to the starter solenoid (11390). The starter solenoid is deactivated when the ignition switch is in the RUN or OFF position.
Maybe something is hooked up wrong ! Or the starter relay is bad
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Mar 11, 2015 | 1998 Ford Ranger

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Freezer not working, things to check


The unit needs two fans running and good airflow, one fan outside cools the condensor coil and the other inside the unit blowing across the evaporator coil, warming it. The compressor must start up. The defrost timer stops everything and switches on a heating element to defrost the evaporator for several minutes. Please verify these conditions. The condensor coil may get clogged with dirt and lint, the evaporator may get clogged with ice build up, or the fan may quit working due to bad bearings, need for lubrication, or burn out. The defrost timer has an internal motor and contacts which may quit working, some have a way to manualy turn it to switch its mode in case it quits working.

on Feb 11, 2015 | Freezers

1 Answer

Frozen evaporator coil


if the evaporator coil is frozen over,then most likely the defrost terminator is bad its located on the top of the evaporator coil and is about 1" round,to test it it needs to be below 15 degrees as this is a bi-metal switch operated by temperature,it will show close to zero ohms when its cold if its good,otherwise the defrost heating element can be open its located under the evaporator coil,but its a calrod element and they usually dont go bad,you can check this with an ohmmeter also and will have anywhere from 20 to 75 ohms,if these are both ok,then the defrost timer or ADC automatic defrost timer can be bad depending on which system your unit incorporatesl

Aug 25, 2012 | Amana 22.6 cu. ft. Side-By-Side...

2 Answers

Delay on evap. fan sistm.404a


Give the evaporator a chance to get cold, then check you've got power to the fan, via the evaporator thermistor and door switch

May 02, 2012 | True Freezers

2 Answers

My freezer has power, but the fans are not going on when the door shuts and the temperature is rising.


The defrost termination/ fan delay control is a temperature-activated, single pole-double throw switch. ).
The control is wired into the refrigeration circuit. The control is located high on the evaporator where the frost is likely to clear last. The function of this temperature-activated switch is to terminate defrost when the evaporator coil has been defrosted, and to delay the evaporator fans from coming on immediately after defrost.
The coil must reach a temperature of 25* F. for the fan delay to close allowing the fans to operate.bobicehouse_38.jpg

Jul 22, 2011 | True 49 cu. ft. / 1388 liter Commercial...

1 Answer

Gen. will not go back to utility after gen run.


Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

This is usually caused by a problem in the utility service sense coils or wiring. The biggest factor causing sense coil problems is the positioning of the wires to be sensed or.... corrosion on the terminal blocks that mate the sense coil wires to the extended controller wires. You can read out the sense coil(s) by disconnecting ONE wire at the terminal strip and reading resistance. You have to do this with each sense coil. (Disconnect one wire to read resistance.) All sense coils must read within 25 ohms of the rest of the sense coils.

There is a possibility of the contactor relay(s) sticking but these are energized in both directions. Should there be a contactor sticking problem they make a very loud buzz vs cycling normally.

Form what I am reading you get auto switching to stand-by power when utility power is lost but no auto-switching back to utility power when utility power is restored.

Check for corrosion on the terminal boards... and on the main board printed circuit card. IF you have to do any cleaning use a Q-tip and 100% isoprophyl alcohol. DO NOT use contact cleaner as it will destroy the conformal coating on your controller PCB. Wait 30 mins after use of the alcohol for the alcohol and condensation to evaporate before energizing circuits.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Apr 24, 2011 | Generac Guardian Series 5504 17 kW...

2 Answers

Coil in freezer icing up and auto defrost not working.the heat strip at bottom of coil is not going on and ice build up on coil cuts cold air supply to refigerated side of refrigerator.is there a sensor...


Your fridge is probably suffering from a defrost circuit failure. One (or possibly more) of the following components has failed: 1) the defrost terminator or sensor, 2) the defrost heating element or 3) the defrost controller / timer. Items 1 & 2 should be found in the freezer compartment - behind the back wall. The 3rd item can often be found in the toe space at the bottom of the fridge - behind a kick plate or some other relatively accessible location.

The operation is as follows: The defrost timer runs constantly and about every 8 hours or so, it switches the power from the compressor and its associated controls (fresh food compartment t-stat, etc.) to the defrost circuit that consists of a heating element and a device called a defrost terminator. Power is applied for about 15 to 20 minutes during which time the defrost heater is energized IF the defrost terminator detects the evaporator coil compartment temperature is cold. When the defrost terminator detects that the heater has warmed the evaporator coil compartment to a temperature of about 50 degrees OR the timer has powered the defrost circuit for 15 to 20 minutes, the defrost circuit / heater de-enrgizes. Even if the heater is hasn't reached 50 degrees in the 15 -20 minutes, the timer switches from the defrost circuit back to the compressor through its controls once again. You'll need to determine if 1) the timer is timing, 2) the timer switch can actually send power to the defrost circuit, 3) the defrost terminator can close when cold - or if it is stuck open, or 4) the heater works.

If you don't know how to work with electrical meters and tools or are not comfortable working in tight spaces (back wall of the freezer) with live electric parts, you should call a repair person. Also, refrigerants are very dangerous. If allowed to escape from the tubing, coils, etc. there is a very real danger of instant frostbite if it comes in contact with your skin. You can be blinded if it contacts your eyes. These above reasons make me believe that this is a pretty complicated DIY type job and really isn't a good one for a beginner to attempt. On the plus side, parts are relatively inexpensive, and a qualified person should be able to quickly diagnose the problem. Labor rates and standard parts markup can bring this repair up into $200 and up range, however.

If / when you do call for service, having the freezer emptied & defrosted already - will save the cost of defrosting time by the repair person.

I hope this was helpful and good luck. Please rate my reply. Thank you.

Apr 08, 2011 | Amana ARS266ZB Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Fost accumilating inside


There are three components that control the automatic defrost cycle.

#1 is the defrost timer, this is a simple clock and set of contacts that switch from cooling mode to defrost mode every 8 to 10 hours. The timer knob can be turned clockwise slowly until a positive 'click' is felt, this is the defrost mode. Let it sit there for about 10 minutes and you should hear the hiss or sizzle, if not then we go a bit deeper.

#2 defrost heater, this heater is located on the bottom of the cooling coils behind the back panel in the freezer, it will run long enough to remove the frost from the evaporator coils and turn off by the defrost terminator or no longer than 25 minutes maximum

#3 defrost terminator or thermostat or bi metal, 3 names same part. This is clipped on to the evaporator coils near the top and senses the temperature, it is there so the defrost cycle does not run too long.

Apr 24, 2010 | Amana 16.8 cu. ft. / 476 liter Upright...

2 Answers

When it goes into self-defrost mode, the freezer goes up to approx. 40 degrees, frost is on the items, the ice cream gets soft, and items start to get moisture in the wrappers or containers. Is this...


no it is not normal, your defrost termination switch is stuck or contacts are welded together, termination switch is there to protect from overheating of freezer, defrost timer puts system into and out of defrost but termination switch keeps the heaters from over heating the area, chances are you will need a defrost timer as well, manufactures recommend you change both when one or the other goes bad, also clean your condenser coil and make sure good ventilation around fridge bet there are lots of dust bunnies and plastic bags between the counter and fridge

Sep 17, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

G.E. side by side Freezer Coils and back wall full of ice.


If you replaced the "defrost timer", and the circulation fan runs ok before the ice buildup occurs, you will have to melt the ice so the panel will come off. Then, pull the back panel off and inspect to components. First, the defrost element and connections to it. If connections are good, disconnect 1 connector and check the resistance of the element itself with a ohmmeter. It should be 40-150 ohms, depending on the unit. If it is excessive or infinate, replace the element. If it is ok, leave the element disconnected and check the other component (defrost termination switch) which is clamped onto the evaporator coil and has two wires attached to it. It should read 0 to 2 ohms at room temprature, and no more than that as it is a temprature controlled switch. If it has excessive resistance, replace it. These are the only 2 components, aside from the defrost timer, that encompass the entire defrost circuit in most refrigerators.

Jul 30, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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