Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

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A Kenmore series 90 cloths washer that does not fully drain water

I have a Kenmore series 90 cloths washer that does not fully drain.

During all cycles when it is done agitating it stops for a short moment and then begins to spin and the water begins to comes out. However by the time it finished the spin cycle, all the water is not out of the tub and the cloths are still wet.

Since it begins to spin it is not the lid switch.

I checked all the hoses for restrictions and replaced the pump. Replacing the pump seemed to fix the problem for the first 5 or 6 loads, now back to not completely pumping the water out.

Question, should the pump, pump out water for a little while before starting to spin?

I'm thinking it is not the switch because it happens the same way on all cycles.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Posted by on

  • 3 more comments 
  • butch1619 Feb 08, 2010

    Did you completely read my post?



  • butch1619 Feb 08, 2010








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    Hello Rylee





    You wrote;

    Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer
    pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:






    As I stated in my original question- During all cycles when it is done agitating
    it stops for a short moment and then begins to spin and the water begins to
    comes out.






    It is not the Lid switch



    The motor coupler may be broken. During
    all cycles when it is done agitating it stops for a short moment and then
    begins to spin and the water begins to comes out.






    The coupling is fine. Also visual inspection before asking
    for help.





    The clutch may be
    worn. It may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch
    wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch
    is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a
    qualified appliance repair technician.






    It may be the clutch. How do you test it. It appears to spin very well. When the tub is full of water it is a very
    slow spin. As it empties it spins faster and faster and some point in the cycle
    it stops and appears to switch gears
    cause then it really spins fast.



    The drive motor may be defective


    The motor appears fine.





    The transmission may
    not be shifting properly.



    It appears to shift fine. How do you test?






    The spin bearing or basket drive may be
    worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the
    outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the
    spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician
    .



    The spin cycle does not appear to make any noise that is not normal. The inner
    tub appears to spin freely






    In my observation of the washing machine in action, it appears to me that it is
    skipping over the 120 second cycle to “DRAIN HI”. It fills, agitates then it stops, pauses for
    a a second and you hear a few clicks from down by the motor and then another
    click and the inter tub begins to spin. It spins slowly at first but it spins and
    spin with it full of water!


    I was under the impression that it is suppose to pump most
    of the water out before it begins the spin cycle. According to the machine function chart on the
    washing machine it is suppose to Drain HI for two minutes before it goes to
    spin. Am I missing something?



































  • butch1619 Feb 08, 2010

    The model number is 110.28912790

    Is there a lint filter with this washing machine?


  • butch1619 Feb 08, 2010







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    Hello Rylee


    Thank you for your quick reply and information.





    yes it has a
    lint-filter that goes under spin basket. The filter is located under the spin
    basket.






    I’t seems that all the water is not coming out fast
    enough. Could it be the lint filter? According
    to the parts catalog you linked me to there no longer needs to be a lint
    filter, but these little plugs. What is the best way to check and see if this
    is clogged? We have had lots of lint
    lately for some reason. Do I have to take out the inner tub?








    the spin A broken lid
    switch plunger will allow the washer to fill and agitate bit can prevent and
    draining from occurring, check the lid switch as a good place to start.






    The lid switch works fine.
    I even know how to short it out so that I can watch the washing machine
    run with the cabinet cover off.





    Then check the motor couplers as that might have gone bad, the coupling
    kit is used between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with
    no belt. Also, this machine is a forward/reversing style of washer. The motor
    drives one direction to wash, stops, reverses and goes the other direction to
    spin and pump
    .





    As my original posting and my last posting the coupler is
    fine.





    The timer is responsible for cycling the motor
    back and forth. As the "direct drive" name indicates, there is no
    belt on this machine, but it has a coupler
    between the motor and the gear box. Most (not all) direct drive washers are a
    neutral drain washer, means the timer allows the washer to pump out the water
    and then the timer pauses (stops) the washer so the neutral drive in the
    gearbox can reset for spinning, and when the timer allows the washer to start
    back up again the pumping will continue and spinning will occur. You should be
    able to see the pauses on the washer wiring diagram flow chart.






    Yep, I do see the pause in the wiring diagram flow chart..
    It is suppose to pause for 120 seconds and it pauses for less than 1. Do I need a new timer? Would the timer be bad on all washing
    functions, Ultra clean, permanent press, gentle ect?





    What is the best way to test the timer? Can we test if it is going into neutral?








    Paul




  • butch1619 Feb 10, 2010

    I figured it out. I was about ready to tear into it to look at the clutch, brake and gear box.

    It in fact was a restriction in the output hose where it does a 90 as it exits the washer. A long skinny lego block was stuck and covered with lint blocking 90 percent of flow. I should have done a better job looking for restrictions.

    I should have figured out that something had gone through the pump and messed it up. How it got through, I don't know.

    Thank you for your help
    Paul


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  • Master
  • 8,619 Answers

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it. A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) The clutch may be worn. It may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Feb 08, 2010

    Did you completely read my answer?

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Feb 08, 2010

    If that sound rude to you then I am sorry, I was just trying to make sure that you did read everything out. If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out and you are sure that the motor is running, then please revert back with the complete model no# for your Kenmore# 90 series for further assistance.




    Thanks
    Rylee

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Feb 08, 2010

    Thanks for info,
    yes it has a lint-filter that goes under spin
    basket. The filter is located under the spin basket. A broken lid switch
    plunger will allow the washer to fill and agitate bit can prevent the spin and
    draining from occurring, check the lid switch as a good place to start. Then
    check the motor couplers as that might have gone bad, the coupling kit is
    used between the motor and the transmission on direct drive washers with no
    belt. Also, this machine is a
    forward/reversing style of washer. The motor drives one direction to wash,
    stops, reverses and goes the other direction to spin and pump. The timer is
    responsible for cycling the motor back and forth.
    As the
    "direct drive" name indicates, there is no belt on this machine, but
    it has a
    coupler between the
    motor and the gear box. Most (not all) direct drive washers are a neutral drain
    washer, means the timer allows the washer to pump out the water and then the
    timer pauses (stops) the washer so the neutral drive in the gearbox can reset
    for spinning, and when the timer allows the washer to start back up again the
    pumping will continue and spinning will occur. You should be able to see the
    pauses on the washer wiring diagram flow chart.
    You can buy the parts from this link.
    Please do accept the solution if
    the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.









    Thanks


    Rylee

  • Rylee Smith
    Rylee Smith Feb 08, 2010


    Paul,




    Please do not include what I have written as it really makes difficult to read, yes you are right it could be the lint filter or the timer as you have already checked everything else out. To check the timer remove power,
    access the timer and remove metal or plastic cover. Look for blackened or burnt
    contacts. If the
    timer
    contacts
    are pitted
    black or burnt, replace the timer. If you have to "wiggle" the timer
    knob to make the washer work, this is another timer problem, new timer time.
    New picture of a timer with a burnt contact is
    here. If your timer
    is moving part way through the cycle and then is stopping in certain parts,
    this link
    here
    may help you out.








    Please do
    accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further
    assistance.









    Thanks


    Rylee



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