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I have a samsung 2053bw monitor that does not leave stand by mode. The monitors power light only blinks. I plugged in a different dell monitor and it seems to work fine.

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Hello,

You power issue is caused by a failure in the power supply board. We have an article posted on our web site at: http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-syncmaster-2053bw/ the repair requires replacing 8 capacitors that will need to be soldered on the board. If you can solder then you should be able to do the repair yourself. If you don't want to do the repair we do offer a repair service, more information can be found here: http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/service-request-form/

I hope this information is helpful to you, if so please rate our solution.

Buddy
Corporate Computer
www.ccl-la.com

Posted on Mar 22, 2010

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Power supply should be checked out for bad caps with bulging tops/seals first, post back what you see so we can guide you further, see example of failed SAMSUNG monitors due to bad caps: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

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1 Answer

Monitor SyncMaster T200 has no image, but LED is blinking. What to do?


That model uses the same power supply board as the Samsung Syncmaster 2053BW and here is a link to a repair guide for that model that should get you going on the right track.

http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/samsung-syncmaster-2053bw/

I hope this helps, if so please rate my solution.

BuddyMc

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It's possibly the cable/plug points. I leave the vga plug unscrewed so that the computer is easy to move around and I sometimes have problems with the screen not coming on. Try a different cable.

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Oct 23, 2009- This is how it went for me..I have a Samsung SYNCMASTER2.gif 2053BW. I leave my monitor on and let it hybernate when I shut down PC. I'm 3 months outside of my warranty. Two weeks ago something started happening. I boot PC and video doesn't come up for 10 minutes, and when it came up it worked perfect. VC/Monitor/MB?? It became 20 minutes and ...now..I have the analog/digital box in top left screen, power light on monitor flashing, no menu available on monitor and none of the other buttons work for anything. I test the monitor on Laptop..nothing(same as above)..I break out the old(working) monitor from deep within the closet. Plug it in and I'm up and running. So...

HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.56ec44b.jpg
aae8fab.jpg
Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for close to 6 hours with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too. - I must also add that this is one of the best producing monitors I have ever seen...in 60hz. The clarity is top notch. If you purchase one get the extended warranty. FYI...I paid $4.00 for those caps. It sounds like this is very common with SyncMasters.

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Oct 23, 2009- This is how it went for me..I have a Samsung SYNCMASTER2.gif 2053BW. I leave my monitor on and let it hybernate when I shut down PC. I'm 3 months outside of my warranty. Two weeks ago something started happening. I boot PC and video doesn't come up for 10 minutes, and when it came up it worked perfect. VC/Monitor/MB?? It became 20 minutes and ...now..I have the analog/digital box in top left screen, power light on monitor flashing, no menu available on monitor and none of the other buttons work for anything. I test the monitor on Laptop..nothing(same as above)..I break out the old(working) monitor from deep within the closet. Plug it in and I'm up and running. So...

HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.56ec44b.jpg
aae8fab.jpg
Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for close to 6 hours with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too. Oct 23, 2009- I must also add that this is one of the best producing monitors I have ever seen...in 60hz. The clarity is top notch. If you purchase one get the extended warranty. FYI...I paid $4.00 for those caps.

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3 Answers

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Oct 23, 2009 - This is how it went for me..I have a Samsung SYNCMASTER2.gif 2053BW. I leave my monitor on and let it hybernate when I shut down PC. I'm 3 months outside of my warranty. Two weeks ago something started happening. I boot PC and video doesn't come up for 10 minutes, and when it came up it worked perfect. VC/Monitor/MB?? It became 20 minutes and ...now..I have the analog/digital box in top left screen, power light on monitor flashing, no menu available on monitor and none of the other buttons work for anything. I test the monitor on Laptop..nothing(same as above)..I break out the old(working) monitor from deep within the closet. Plug it in and I'm up and running. So...

HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.56ec44b.jpg
aae8fab.jpg
Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for close to 6 hours with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too. - I must also add that this is one of the best producing monitors I have ever seen...in 60hz. The clarity is top notch. If you purchase one get the extended warranty. FYI...I paid $4.00 for those caps.

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1 Answer

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HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER2.gif 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.56ec44b.jpg
aae8fab.jpg
Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for a day with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too. - I must also add that this is one of the best producing monitors I have ever seen...in 60hz. The clarity is top notch. If you purchase one get the extended warranty. FYI...I paid $4.00 for those caps

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1 Answer

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7 Answers

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Oct 23, 2009 - This is how it went for me..I have a Samsung SYNCMASTER2.gif 2053BW. I leave my monitor on and let it hybernate when I shut down PC. I'm 3 months outside of my warranty. Two weeks ago something started happening. I boot PC and video doesn't come up for 10 minutes, and when it came up it worked perfect. VC/Monitor/MB?? It became 20 minutes and ...now..I have the analog/digital box in top left screen, power light on monitor flashing, no menu available on monitor and none of the other buttons work for anything. I test the monitor on Laptop..nothing(same as above)..I break out the old(working) monitor from deep within the closet. Plug it in and I'm up and running. So...

HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.56ec44b.jpg
aae8fab.jpg
Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for close to 6 hours with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too. - I must also add that this is one of the best producing monitors I have ever seen...in 60hz. The clarity is top notch. If you purchase one get the extended warranty. FYI...I paid $4.00 for those caps.

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