Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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HE3 front load washer

Washer will not start. Appears to be no power, however checked oultlet and there is power available. Moved washer out to vaccuum behind with no great effort and then replaced only to have this problem occur. Anyhelp is greatly appreciated. CCKnight

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  • kbells Feb 22, 2008

    Hi There:

    We have the EXACT same problem. Our front load washer was working great yesterday, this morning I put in a new load of laudry and it won't even turn on. I tried to unlock it, unplugged it, checked outlet. I can't figure it out. There doesn't seem to be any life to the machine. HELP!

  • CCKnight Feb 25, 2008

    I love the thorough treatment plan and will wait for my husband to get home before I attempt :)

    However, here's and interesting fact: when I reposition my cord the washer will show power to the panel again. If I move the cord, again the power goes out....can this be a more specific problem, such as a short??

    Thanks,CCKnight

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell May 11, 2010

    Are there ANY indicators at all on the front panel? You may have inadvertently locked the control panel when you moved it. Try holding the DRAIN/SPIN button down for 3 seconds.

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I just tried the solution to place washer in diagnostics mode. Still-nothing, not a light in sight. Thanks though.

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

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PS you can also place the washer in diagnostics mode to see if the same "F05" error is displayed. To do so, select DRAIN/SPIN, NO SPIN and press any key under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the SAME key, though). "C:00" will be displayed as the washer runs through a series of tests that check the door latch, flow meter, hot and cold water inlets, dispenser, motor actions, drain pump, AND the heater & NTC. The heater and NTC are checked at segment C:05. The washer should advance through all segments and end after C:08. There is a tech sheet inside your washer along one of the side panels that has all this information available to you.

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Feb 23, 2008

    Please disregard my Solution #1. I posted it to the wrong problem and it doesn't address this problem correctly.

    The following is a list of the recommended procedures from Kenmore to try for diagnosing this particular problem:

    1. Check the line voltage and for blown fuses (I know you've already tried this, just following Kenmore's check list sequence).
    2. Check for voltage going to Central Control Unit (CCU) by listen
    ing for a click in the CCU when unit is plugged in. You will need to unplug the washer and plug back in. Listen for a "clicking" sound. If no click is heard, Kenmore recommends replacing the CCU. This is the main control board inside the washer. You can access it by removing the top panel. The CCU is located at the back of the washer in the center just above the wash tub.
    3. Unplug the washer before continuing.
    4. Check continuity of line cord and line filter. The line filter is located to the immediate RIGHT of the CCU. There are two pink wires, a black wire and white (or yellow) wire. Readings across the filter should read 0 ohms.
    5. Check harness connections to CCU. Remove all connectors on the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reseat them. Sometimes the connections oxidize and reseating them corrects problems.
    6. Check touch-pad/LED assembly. Make sure the ribbon cable is connected to the touch pad board and at the CCU.

    If you identify the culprit, any parts you may need can be found at searspartsdirect.com or repairclinic.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number (located around the door opening) in the search menu. There is a detailed part index available. I hope this helps. If you have any further questions/concerns, please post back with your comments.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Feb 25, 2008

    If you are talking about the A/C power cord, you may have a bad outlet, a loose connection at the terminal inside the washer where the cord plugs into the line filter, or the cord itself could have a loose or broken wire. Intermittent connectivity issues like this can be dangerous as they often arc, causing hot spots. It's better to find it now, before you notice some burned wiring somewhere. I would suggest securing the power to the washer and ensure all the terminal connections are tight. You may have to hire an electrician to check the outlet if that proves to be the problem. Use extreme caution working around any of the terminal connections with the washer plugged in. There's still 120 VAC present at the line filter with the washer turned off.

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