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Call for heat. nothing come on. got 24v at secondary transformer but not to the gas valve nor 2 wires black spark ignition. What should I check for this matter please help me out. thank you very much

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Sounds as though the protection mechanism has been activated. Check the sensors out.

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

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Payne 383KAV heater. Gas valve won't open to fire heater.


Being as how you changed the gas valve, make sure the arrow on the bottom of the gas valve is pointed towards the burner. Check for 24 volts at the common and main valve terminals on the gas valve when the thermostat is calling for heat...terminals MV and C. You will only have 24v there if the flame sensor senses flame... either pilot flame or main gas. You coud have 24v there without gas flowing or flame if is is a thermocouple standing pilot system and the gas valve is not in the 'on' position. But standing pilot systems usually do not have flame sensors.

With a flame sensor in the system, you have to have either spark ignition or glow coil ignition. If its spark ignition check for 24 volts at the pilot valve and common terminals on the gas valve WHILE the ignitor is sparking. That would be PV and C. The ignitor should spark and 24v should be on PV and C for 30 seconds to a full minute without ignition if it is a spark-to-pilot system.

If you have a glow coil, it will energize and burn bright orange for a minimum of 30 seconds BEFORE the main valve is energized. Then MV and C is only receiving 24v for approximately 5 to 6 seconds. This gives the flame sensor the time to prove the flame....if it does not prove flame, the system shuts down.

Dec 29, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

The water heater red light keeps flashing rapidly on my Powervent 2 model 41VRP40N. It is not producing hot water and when I read the manual it says it needs more heat. What does this mean. How do I fix...


There are many things to check. The single most important test is for 24V at the gas valve after the ignitor is supposed tp be on. 19 V or less and there is either a bad ground or the ingition control board has failed. (Wire ground problems are a high probablilty)

Here is what the book says:

PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED

(Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped).

Possible causes

A. No main power

B. Faulty transformer

C. Faulty thermostat

D. Faulty limit switch

E. Faulty blower interlock switch

F. Faulty hot surface ignitor

G. Faulty ignition control

Solution

Step #1

Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit

switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component.

Step #2

With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage

between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present

check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer

checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat,

limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut"

(L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and

"IGN" terminals on the HS780 ignition module. If 120 volts is present,
replace ignitor. If no, replace the 780 series module

PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER

WOULDN'T LIGHT

Possible causes

A. Improper ignitor alignment

B. Faulty ignition control

C. Faulty gas valve

D. High inlet gas pressure

E. Polarity reversed

F. No earth ground

Solution

Step #1

Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve

upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also

make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too

high will lock-up the valve.

Step #2

Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing

the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the

problem, replace wires as they were.

Step #3

Check for proper ignitor position.

Step #4

Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1

and furnace chassis. Should read 120 volts, if no, check and/or repair ignition
ground wire or ignition control mounting screws.
CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED

Step #5

Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series,

"M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes,

check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
ignition module.

That is pretty much all of the troubleshooting required.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Feb 14, 2011 | Rheem 40 Gallon FVR NATGAS Low WATER...

1 Answer

Vulcan convection oven model SG4d-1 will not ignite burners


Gas does not ignite. No spark. No Ignition light is not ON.
1. Shorted electrode on igniter/flame sense.
2. Igniter cable (high voltage) OPEN.
3. Heat relay malfunction.
4. Centrifugal switch in blower motor inoperative.
5. Transformer inoperative.
6. High limit thermostat open.
7. Interconnecting wiring malfunction.
8. Ignition module malfunction.

Sparks but gas does not ignite.

1. Gas solenoid valve off or inoperative.
2. Manual gas valve closed.
3. Gas supply OFF or insufficient gas pressure.
4. Inerconnecting wiring malfunction.
5. Igniton module malfunction.

Feb 23, 2010 | Vulcan Convection Oven - VC44EC-208-1

1 Answer

My drying is blow cold air intead of hot to dry the clothes . what can the problem be


Components:

Igniter: Line voltage brings the igniter temp to about 2200 degrees F in 30 seconds.
Radiant Sensor: Works like a thermostat, normally closed, opens when sensing the heat from the igniter or burner flame.
When cold the radiant sensor contacts are closed and circuit is completed to the igniter. When the igniter heats up, the radiant sensor senses the heat and the contacts open, breaking the circuit to the igniter.
Gas Valve: The gas valve is 2 valve gas valves in series. This is for added safety in case one of the valves fails to seat properly.
Valve 1 (the closest to the supply pipe) has a split coil solenoid (2 coils, 1 solenoid and armature). The upper is the holding coil and the lower is the booster coil. The power of both coils is required to lift the armature. Once the armature is up only the holding coil is required to keep it up.
The second valve has only one coil and is called the secondary coil.

Operation:

At the beginning of a cycle, the sensor contacts are closed, the igniter is cold and the both gas valves are closed.
(NOTE) The sensor contacts are wired in parallel with the secondary coil so current bypasses the secondary coil. As long as the sensor contacts are closed the valve can not be open unless the valve itself is at fault. However when gas pressure is first applied by turning on the gas ****, a small amount of gas may pass though the vent until the pressure regulator is balanced.
The booster coil and igniter are wired in parallel with each other and wired in series with the sensor and secondary combined. When the sensor contacts are closed full line voltage is available to both the igniter and the booster coil. When the sensor contacts are open current must flow though the secondary to get to the igniter and booster coil and a large voltage drop results across the secondary coil. Even though the parallel booster coil and igniter are still in the circuit they are ineffective due to the reduced voltage available to them.

Call for heat: Power is applied to the circuit.

Step 1: Radiant sensor contacts are closed, the holding coil, booster coil and igniter get full line voltage. The holding coil and booster have enough power to open valve 1 (first click)and the igniter begins to get hot and glow. At this time sine the sensor contacts are closed the secondary coil is bypassed so valve 2 remains closed to prevent gas from leaving the burner.
Step 2: The igniter is getting red hot and gas valve 1 is open. As the igniter gets hot its resistance decreases. At the same time the heat from the igniter causes the radiant sensor contacts to open.
Step 3: Valve 1 is now held open by the holding coil. The sensor contacts are open due to the heat from the igniter. The current paths in the circuit change.
With the sensor contacts open the secondary coil is no longer bypassed and is now in series with the parallel combination of the booster coil and igniter. Because of the low resistance of the hot igniter, most of the line voltage is dropped across the secondary coil. Only a small percentage is dropped across the booster coil and igniter. (Sometimes a small click as the booster drops out).
So the secondary coil now opens valve 2 (click 2) releasing gas across the still red hot igniter and the gas is ignited on contact. While the igniter will cool the tip is still in the flame which is enough to keep the resistance low. At the same time the heat from the burner will keep the radiant sensor contacts open.
It the flame goes out the sensor will cool and the contacts will open bypassing the secondary coil and valve 2 will close. When power is removed from the circuit both valves will close due to gas pressure and spring pressure of the armatures.

Feb 20, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dayton Heater M/N 3E227E


Hard to believe they sell a retrofit kit for a Gas furnace to a Customer....This is ahrd to advise you on with out seeing the schematic and if it is indeed intended for that furnace....the Spark mounting location is CRITICAL for safety so make sure that is correct above all.....OK The wire coming off the transformer and tied to the red wire going to the heat excghanger would most likely be a High Limit switch...cuts the gas off if the blower doesnt work etc or you would have a fire...so this switch must be in series with the transformer to cut power when the switch opens....the wire MV/PV coming from the "Electronic control box" needs to go to the New Gas Valve you should have which will have a termional marked MV/PV (Main valve/Pilot/valve) as your old one was for a standing pilot application and when you have electronic ignition you req a Gas valve for Intermittent pilot .....you should also have 2 more terminals on the valve MV and PV which will have seperate lines from the ignition control as well....basicvally there will be another wire coming from MV/PV going back to the transformer...make sure all wiring is correct and I would strongly advise you have a technician check your work before you attempt to use it....if wired incorrectly you could have a serious delayed ignition as its possible to power the main burner instead of the pilot if you wire it up wrong below is a typical spark wiring diagram....may not apply totally to your system but it will give you the general idea79f9627.gif

Oct 31, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Blower runs, Ignitor glows, no 24V at gas valve, no click....


Check the two wires coming directly off the transformer. They will be connected to the board the line voltage will be black and white and the 24voltage will be something like blue and red undo from board and check to see if you have 24 volts there. If not your transformer is bad 10 dollar part. Take it to Heating and Air parts house to replace. Let me know ken

Dec 13, 2008 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...

1 Answer

Furnance will not heat


Check your voltage going into the gas valve. It should be 24-27 volts. If it is to low the gas valve will chatter. If the voltage is strong enough you have a bad gas valve.

Dec 09, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

It wont turn on


If nothing will come on check the breaker to the indoor section, check that the service switch by the in door section is on and the blower door cover is tightly closed. If all these junctions are transmitting power then it may be a burned out transformer. If you can check for 120v on the primary coil of the transformer and 24v on the secondary that would tell you where the problem is. If theres no voltage on either side then backtrack from the transformer on the 120v side till you find 120v. If theres 120v but no 24v your transformer secondary is burned out. If theres both then the problem is downstream from the transformer: circuit board 3amp fuse, loose wiring.

Jul 17, 2008 | Ruud Matching Split Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Goodman ac/gas furnace unit mdl. # gmp075-4


i HAD THE SAME PROBLEM, TURNS OUT IT WAS THE FLAME SENSOR, CLEANED IT, AND ALL WAS GOOD

Nov 27, 2007 | Cozy (W352E) Heater

1 Answer

Ruud furnace won't light


first lets try the transformer. With your meter check for 24v on the output side. You cant check to ground on this, you have to check your meter with both wires to the transformer. If this is too complicated just try turning on the A/C, if it comes on, the transformer is good. The problem may be with the time delay relay. try by-passing it and then see what happens. since its an '87 when you say circuit board I assume its a board with all the low voltage wires attached to it right? Or does it have resistors, diodes, and relays molded into it?

Nov 04, 2007 | Heating & Cooling

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