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I HAVE A DOUBLE RANGE OVEN,ALL POLIT LIGHTS WORK AND BURNES. BUT THE OVENS WILL NOT IGNITE WHEN TURNED ON. i was told it maybe the themostat

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Check the ignitor

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

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Oven will not light


If your husband is handy and it is Igniter.. this is a job he can do. remove the burner cover and them the burner baffle and unscrew the igniter cover and pull the igniter out remove the wire nuts and replace with igniter part number WB02X9154 let me know how it works out for you.

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Most ovens have BAKE, BROIL and yours might have CONVECTION. Turn each on independently. If all don't work its one problem if only one doesn't its another
Also is it the gas doesn't ignite or it ignites then no temp change (or electric gets to xx degrees but doesn't get hotter?

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I have a two ear old Kitchenaid gas range (KGRS807). It all at once stopped lighting the oven. The top burners still work fine. When you do anything in the oven (Bake , Broil, Convection) the electric...


You will need a new igniter module. The igniter module is told to spark by the control panel. There is also a flame detection for electronic start and that could be bad too.

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Hotpoint lp gas range Mod# rgb532bea5wh. Oven will not light. Igniter does work but no gas is passing thru the oven control valve. I replaced the oven control valve but oven still does not work. what else...


When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve
-- defective pressure regulator(likely issue if the igniter is ok)

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Smeg fautly themostat - too hot, burns everything


Sounds like thermostat faulty, make sure sensor is not detached or broken in oven, if still under 1 year old, then I suggest you contact service agent.
Pleas rate my solution.
Thanks.

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The fan and oven light in bottom oven works but not heat.


The heating element is the likely culprit as they burn out and go open
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Oven won't light.


Localwonder gave a more comprehensive answer, but I wanted to share my recent related experience too:
Same model: MGR5750BDW
Oven was not heating up, or would sometimes and not others. Broiler worked fine. The nice thing is that the broiler igniter and the oven igniter are the same part. So I swapped them until I could get a replacement part.
Before I did anything, I turned off the gas!
To take out the broiler igniter: there's one screw right near the front of the oven that holds the burner assembly in place. Remove that, gently pull the assembly off the gas nozzle off to the left. Then where the wires from the igniter go into the back wall, remove the screw that holds the little door, remove that little door, and then gently pull the wires through until the connector comes through the opening. I also found you can go behind the stove, remove the back panel (which is easy) and see the igniter's connector.
The oven one: remove the floor of the oven by lifting it at the back, and then lift it out towards the back of the oven. Then you can see the igniter at the back of the floor of the oven. remove the two mounting screws, and then gently pull the wires until the connector comes through the insulation.
The bad igniter looked like it had burned down to bare metal in a big patch...not sure if that's the actual problem, but in any event, I installed the good igniter in the bottom (gently pushing the reconnected connector through the insulation, and feeding as much of the wires down in there as well), and the bad igniter in the broiler position (since that was the easiest one to access and replace, it'll be easy enough to replace when I get the parts). Tested, and everything worked great. And I could watch the bad igniter light up, and never light, confirming that it was the igniter itself that was the problem.
The best part, for this stove anyway, -- the ONLY tool needed was a #2 phillips screwdriver. Really. All told, maybe an hour of work, nothing intense. And free -- so if they both worked, it would have spared me ordering a part that didn't need to be replaced!

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