Question about RCA HD61LPW42 61" Rear Projection HDTV

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Unit in completly dead. found blown 5amp fuse on chassis. shorted it accross, unit still dead,110v present. can u tell me where 2 get a repair manual 4 this unit. PDF or otherwise????

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  • gerawson Feb 07, 2010

    Wrong unit mine is P46733AT



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Do you have an RCA HD61LPW42? Kindly check the link below and see if you could get any information:

Good luck and have a great day!

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

  • Melvin Ramos
    Melvin Ramos Feb 07, 2010

    Thank you for providing the correct model number. For P46733AT, I think that the problem is the power supply unit itself. I tried searching for the repair manual but I couldn't find anything for free. But, please check the link below:

    Copy the whole link. This link contains a repair manual for P46733AT and the price is $7.5.

    Thank you!



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Why do you want to replace fuse? Is your projector dead? In many cases just a fuse replacement will not solve the problem. if fuse is blown, good chance, that power supply has shorted components. still, you may try to replace the fuse with lower grade, first, and observe the behavior. If unit turns on and starts operate normally, then fuse blows, you may install the stock fuse. Means: it's just a fuse's issue. If it blows right away, don't even try to put regular fuse, instead. unit must be repaired, first. Power supply or ballast might be shorted. To locate a fuse, you must look around the unit and find a little door, says: fuse. it might have a screw or two holding it, might not. Look at the fuse, first: if it looks pulverized, don't even dare to replace it! it will blow again and make more damage to the unit. If thin wire inside is just torn, then follow the procedure, described above. If the fuse is ceramic, you won't be able to determine, how it blew. Look at the fuse's rating: it might be written on a fuse door, or on the fuse, itself. could be from 5amp to 10amp, depend on power consumption. Remember: first, install the fuse with 1/2 of value: i.e: 6amp-put 3amp first, etc. Good luck with your project.

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My Panasonic S35 DVD player was plugged in to 220 volts instead of 110 volts. The problem is just after replacing two (2) capacitors, diode, and fuse. the unit was accidentally plugged in again to 220...

If the unit is designed to operate at 110V AC, then plugging it into 220V or more without the appropriate multi-current (240-110V) transformer and relative voltage switching circuitry to the PSU (to accommodate the higher current load) is very dangerous. Because of the excess voltage applied, the DVD player's power supply cannot handle this, is basically destroyed, and therefore it would be uneconomical/expensive to repair; although due to the possible extent of the over-voltage damage, I doubt it would be repairable.

To put it bluntly, the whole unit would be a write-off, as the damage to the power supply may have also compromised many of the components on the motherboard. It wouldn't be cost-effective to replace every single part in the circuit. You most likely will need to buy a new player (or find a similar used working one which is not damaged for a cheaper price if that's what you want) and if you do, check to make sure it is a mulit-system/multi-voltage model (can operate between 110V and 240V AC, and is capable of doing so SAFELY) to prevent a disaster like this from happening in the future.

The risks of electrical incidents like this are far too great to even contemplate. One can be lucky sometimes.

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I think i fried the power supply shorting against the chassis.. is it worth trying to fix it? touched bare speaker wire to chassis while it was on...

What leads you to think you fried the power supply in your unit? While touching the speaker wire to the chassis is never a good thing it should not have fried the power supply. Might have opened a fuse in the speaker circuit. Have you checked all the fuses yet? Try that first and get back to me and make sure the unit is unplugged before you open it up!!!


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When there is no sound from an car audio in-dash receiver, FIRST be sure that all connections are GOOD!!!. Incorrect DC conditions affect many units by muting the audio output., so check ... a mistake (often a short circuit or short to chassis in the speaker wiring in a power up condition) has often been made at the deinstall or install under way stage, in that a in a bad condition may result a “no go” situation, that can blow the units audio output IC(s).
Most high power BTL output stages present in a particular way. This can help us to identify a problem with the operation of the device. Whilst the unit is still in the car, measure the voltage on each of the speaker outputs with a multimeter. If they do not appear to be at approx 6-8 volts range, then the output chip(the chip with a heat sink tab secured by 2 screws about *----------* far apart), may have blown. Open the unit up and you can often see this "blown" chip often as
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  2. burning or "melt" stains on the PCB about the pins of the output chip.
  3. pins from the chip completely missing or "fused"
  4. main power supply fuse blowing
  5. burnt copper tracks to the printed circuit board about the audio output chip
  6. SMOKE coming out of unit is often a giveaway.
If the chip "looks" blown... then it will be. Replace it with a new one and see how you go. Always check for shorts and short to earth in the speaker wiring before reinstalling unit as reinstall of a unit that has been fixed can be completely undone by the same short circuit still being there.
NOTE-----NOTE-----NOTE-----This is an expert type repair to remove an output chip form a modern in-dash unit. A lot of energy(power) is focused in this area, and mistakes made.... usually result in more "blown" replacement parts. If you have NOT done this type of repair work before, GET A CAR AUDIO DOOOD to give you a quote for the repair. It is better for him to do the job for you, then you get a warranty also. Just remember that some output chips can be as much as $80 to replace, so experts attention is needed to find and restore a faulty part replacement at this level. Be sure to use the EXACT replacement part from the OEM(original equipment manufacturer) right down to the brand of chip WHERE YOU CAN to avoid any extra complications from the part being incorrectly spec'd for the job and still not working when you install it.

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