Question about GE Profile JKP56 Electric Double Oven

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Jkp56 I just installed a used GE JKP56 double oven with the smartset controls etc... and the lower oven comes on when power is applied to the unit without any control indication or selection on the control panel. Any suggestions?

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  • longwings Feb 22, 2008

    fixed!

  • longwings Feb 22, 2008

    was a grounded wire in the back going to the element.

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1 Suggested Answer

Powerman
  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: jkp56T

The relays are soldered to the printed circuit. You would need to find a relay and then unsolder the old one and resolder the new one. This requires special skill. I would not recommend it unless you are comfortable with printed circuits.

An alternative would be to contact CG Industries at www.cgiltd.com.

They repair applicance electronic components.
Good Luck,
Powerman

Posted on Mar 08, 2008

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Panel on jkp56 is dimming


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Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Leave the power off remove the screws from under the panel and lift up to open the control panel. There are reset-able fuses in there check them by pressing the center red button if they are ok check the screen in front of the fan make sure its not blocked up it will cause this problem too.If all that is ok then the relay on the control fused closed and you would have to replace the control board with the relays on it.
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The top oven stopped working 1 year ago, electricity was there, oven lamp goes on, but won't get warm, so used lower over and now it quit and for the same reason


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Jkp56T


The relays are soldered to the printed circuit. You would need to find a relay and then unsolder the old one and resolder the new one. This requires special skill. I would not recommend it unless you are comfortable with printed circuits.

An alternative would be to contact CG Industries at www.cgiltd.com.

They repair applicance electronic components.
Good Luck,
Powerman

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1 Answer

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The convection fan comes on intermittently, starts smoking then goes off. Temperature on the display doesn't move from 100F (then it did). My wife left the door closed while it was on broil last night (not sure how long), and this morning I woke up to the smell of burnt electrical and something (one of the fans...? not sure as it was far earlier than I usually get up) running that stopped when I opened the oven door and restarted when I closed it (I'm thinking it was probably running all night). While at work, I turned the breaker off, then pulled the oven out this evening. After taking some of the metal plates off, I put the power back on and turned the oven on for a 450F bake. I don't know if the little cooling fan at the top of the unit is supposed to go on when I have the top exposed and getting plenty of air; it wasn't and it also had a faint burnt electrical smell. After disconnecting then plugging the fan power connector to the circuit board the fan ran for 10-15 seconds before it started smoking and quit. I checked voltage across the fan leads and there wasn't any. I shut the oven off, tripped the breaker, and let it cool. I then tried testing the fan motor directly i.e. bypassing the oven and using a regular outlet since the motor is rated for 120V. It ran for ~1 minute, then smoked and quit. The smoke is definitely coming from the fan rather than any adjoining wires. Is this a case of the fan AND the control board going south or one contributing to the other's demise? I should add that the clock display has been dimming for a couple of years. UPDATE (2/20): I tried just baking (as opposed to convection baking) and the bottom element did come on (I'd reported earlier that it hadn't... that was because I was using convection baking and that does only heat around the fan... just my ignorance on that one). However, the temperature readout on the display did not move from 100F though it was clearly hotter than that in the oven. I then stopped the baking mode and started convection baking. This time the temperature gauge immediately went to 141F and kept climbing. Resistance at the (room temp) temperature sensor (and at the end of the wiring harness plugged into the control board was ~1100 ohms at room temp (as its supposed to be).

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