Rayburn nouvelle smoke exhaust from boiler burner front pipe joint-copper small od. metal washer and rope seal!

limited info generic answer ---is the pilot lighting and holding when calling for heat does gas light unit then go out that would be a s--afety shutting it down [[[high limit--fan-dirty filters -improper install -etc ]]]---if your familiar with gas systems proceed and test the circuits if unfamiliar have gas or repair company come and evaluate

From my experience of oil fired heaters,

check the oil level

check the system for air. there is a bleed screw near the boiler

If you can get the impeller out, do so, and clean it. Check the bottom of the unit for condensed water.

Ultimately, you will probably need a service engineer. There is some help here

https://www.google.com/search?q=Rayburn+nouvelle+lockout+light

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try cleaning the burner it could be blocked or it needs a service

I think what you are describing is only the pilot light running. If there are no flames at all from the burner, or it lights, but then fails very quickly, it may be your safety cutout is not operating as it should. When the oven lighting mechanism lights the gas the flames heat a temperature sensor that, once hot, increases the pressure in the sensor's copper pipe and opens a safety valve to allow gas to continue to flow (It's made like this so, if your flame gets blown out, the sensor cools and cuts off the gas supply, making it safe from gas leaks). These sensors occasionally fail, and very sensibly "Fail safe" - No pressore in the sensor pipe, the valve won't open and there is no gas to the burner.
If you take a look inside the oven at the back where the burner is, you will see the sensor, usually the bit that is in the flame is cylindrical, about an inch long made of metal about 3 or 4 mm thick, tapering at the end. It will be held in place by a nut that fits on a thread at the base of the sensor. Running from the sensor is a copper pipe that runs to the cutoff valve. Unbolt the sensor and withdraw it from the hole it is mounted in, trace the copper pipe back to the valve (where it is usually screwed into the valve with a 10mm connector that looks like a car brake pipe connector. Unbolt from the valve. These sensors are widely used on most gas appliances (Boilers, gas fires, cooker hob burners and patio heaters all use the same kind of sensor). You should be able to get a replacement from any gas appliance service agent. If you go into a shop, take it with you. The only thing you need to do is make sure the replacement you get is long enough. If you are offered one that is slightly longer, that's not an issue, you can just coil any extra pipe up somewhere between the burner and the valve.

Hello Change the ignition TRANSFORMER on the burner.

you need to take off the door and bend the hinge pins with a stronge bit of pipe so the door seals. heat has made it warp and do you mean soot box on the rayburn top? if so i have a new one i can send

rayburn nouvelle thermocouple keeps burning out any suggestions

these are now a redundant range parts are no longer available and a good thing too as they cost the earth to run. gas ones cost more to run than oil. try "top of the range ltd" for a solution

I hav'nt done one one that vehicle but there all bolted up pretty much the same.Disconnect the negative cable on your battery, take off the intake piping and airbox, airflow meter etc that comes off the turbo and anything alse on the turbo side that going to get in your way.There should be an oil line bolted to the top core which is oil in (most of these are metal so try not to bend them too much, it should be a bolt going through a round metal washer type pipe called a "banjo"be mindfull of the copper washers either side as they act like the gaskets, dont lose them) an oil drain underneath which will be a larger metal pippe inserted into a rubber one, just loosen the hose clamp on it and try break the seal by twsting the hose around a little(can be abit of a ***** sometimes) and leave it on as it'll come out when you lift the turbo out. Depending if its water cooled aswell it'l have two lines that look the same as the top oil one(same goes for the copper washers) each side,these should be metal lines also.Remove the bolts from the downpipe to the exhaust(you may have to do this from underneath)You should beable to see the 4 main bolts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold(most of which have locking washers underneath) remove the bottom ones first as its easier to hold the weight of the turbo while undoing the top ones. The turbo should now be free of everything bar the oil return underneath, since you loosend the hose clamp and freed the pipe up it should lift out with abit of angle changing(depending on room) leaving the oil return pipe sticking up ( as its eaiser to get it back on the new turbo like this). Install in reverse order and dont forget the copper washers as oil/coolant will pour out if not used. I hope this helps as im not the fastest typer and took me a while lol.
P,S the hardest part of this work is the room you have to work with so watch you knuckles/hands. Good luck.

Hi there, you will need to remove the injector and replace the copper seal on the base of the injector. You do this by de-pressurising the fuels rail, ie, loosen the metal pipe attached to the injector, fuel will spill till all pressure has gone. remove the metal pipe and the multiplug connector too, remove the clamp and bolt holding the injector in place. Gently twist the metal part of the injector body and with an upwards motion remove it from the bore. Clean the bore thoroughly and use a vacuum to remove the carbon as you scrape it away. Once happy everything is clean, replace the copper washer and refit the injector in reverse order as for removal. You will have a sealed injector and no blowing will be heard.

Hope this helps

Cliff