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Robert, Need more info. I am unaware of a "light on the motor". There are three motors normally in a refrigeration system. The inside Evaporator fan motor that circulates air across the evaporator coil inside the box, the Condenser fan motor near the compressor that cools the freon after compression, and the compressor itself. Normally none of these have a light. If you are referring to the light inside the box that turns on with opening the door AND the frig is not cooling, we must go to the very start. 1. Verify power at outlet. 2. Do you see (or inside the box- hear) the two fans running. 3. Is the compressor smoothly vibrating?
i hate to tell you this,but you will need the new motherboard to fix this problem,they are notorious for doing this,the board is located in the rear area inside the unit inside a plastic box with a cover and has 2 to 3 harnesses yoy unplug and replug in,some clues to this are:lights that burned out and you replaced and now either dimly strobe or do nothing and the refrigerator compartment does not cool and the digital temp read-out if equipped is dark now also,the board is about $90
check back side of your fridge touch the motor compressor running or not if not running check the electronics board and make voltage check from electronics board to motor compressor. if the compressor running touch the one side of copper tube if have hot one side. if have hot your freon ok check the cooling fan inside the freezer side ok good lock
By motor, I assume you are referring to the compressor underneath the refrigerator. Close by the compressor toward the rear of the refrigerator, there should be a compressor fan. This should be turning. If it's not, the refrigerant coils will not be cooled adequately. This results in inadequate cooling inside the unit. Check also to make sure the coils are not covered with dirt and grime. If they are, clean them.
If the compressor fan is not turning, you will need to replace the fan motor.
This is a Sub Zero and many technicians do not realize that these units most all run on 2 separate systems. 2 cold controls 2 compressors 2 evaporators. They share a condenser and condenser fan motor. What you are describing is most likely a bad cold control. It is pretty common for these to get some age and go bad. If you are very savvy with repairs yourself then if you access the compressor area and feel that the compressor on the right is cool and the compressor on the left is warm then you know that the ref. compressor has not been running. UNPLUG THE UNIT OR CUT THE BREAKER OFF. Remove the shelving from the fresh food section and the cover to the lights and the panel below the lights and lean the back panel forward to access the cold control. You will see 3 wires to the cold control. The green wire is the ground wire of corse. Unplug the other 2 wires remembering their location on the control unit. Take a jumper wire and jump these 2 wires. If when you power the unit up the right side compressor comes on then you know that your fresh food cold control is bad. Replace fresh food cold control.
It's not cool
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”
Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
The overload, relay, or capacitor
The defrost timer
The condenser fan motor
Cooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Evaporator coils Condenser Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The defrost heater
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator
put you own thermometer inside and see if the temperature is the same as the digital thermometer. the light switch shouldn't have anything to do with the temp. another thing to check is see if the condenser fan (condenser is the metal coil on the outside) is running, and that the coil is clean. if the coil is dirty or the fan is not running then either clean the coil or check for voltage at the fan. if you have voltage to the fan and it doesn't run then you need to replace the fan. if you don't have voltage to the fan then you may have a deeper problem. hope this helps
I also have the same refrigerator model 106.56566400 and periodically when the power goes off in the house the refrigerator & freezer will stop cooling. Try pushing the on/off button located inside the refrigerator to the left of the digital temperature controls. Hold the button down, this turns the unit off, then press it again to turn it back on. This basically resets the refrigerator, and most of the time works to get the refrigerator cooling again. Try this first before calling a repair man.