Question about Asko D1796FI Built-in Dishwasher

6 Answers

Our Asko D1796 dishwasher has all lights flashing and is displaying a F2 message, which according to the good book means there is too much water in the machine. I have followed the instructions for a normal inlet time but the indicators will not change. Is it trying to tell me the Drain Pump is dead? A new drain pump was fitted three years ago. There is no eidence of water in the machine. Can anyone help? Thanks. Alan

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  • 16 more comments 
  • aridge212 Feb 07, 2010

    I removed the front panel and all wires and connections are in good order.

    There is no wiring diagram inside the door and i do not know how to test the resistence of the pump.

    I removed the service panel earlier today and all seems in order. How do I ascertain if the pump is working?

    There are no leaks in the base and I am unable to run a cycle because while the F2 error remains, nothing else can be programmed in.

    The machine has not been working for a couple of weeks but I discovered this morning it appaered to have stopped in the middle of a cycle. After holding "stop" fpr a few seconds .and then selecting a new program the machine sprayed and pumped in a normal fashion but towards the end of the cycle the F2 error message appeared.



  • aridge212 Feb 08, 2010

    I am aware that the F2error message indicates a problem with the drainage system.

    I have cleaned all the filter system, checked the drain hose and taken the pump apart to ensure there were no blockages around the impellor.

    I have set the machine up in my workshop independent of the kitchen plumbing with the drain hose lying at ground level. I still get the flooding and F2 error message.

    Any suggestions please,

    Thanks, Alan

  • aridge212 Feb 08, 2010

    Can you tell me where to find the water inlet valve please and can it be tested. Asko tell me this could be the problem

    Alan

  • aridge212 Feb 08, 2010

    Thanks, I am now proceeding to the Asko Service Department......probably where I should have gone in the first place.



    Alan

  • aridge212 Feb 08, 2010

    Okay, I have a digital ohmmeter / volt meter which s a total mystery to me.

    The pump and motor appear ok.

    As soon as the machine begins to operate water drips(runs) from a small square hole at the top of the plastic housing. It appears to be an overflow hole rather than a simple leak.

    It is only when the water level gets to about the bottom of the pump housing that the machine stops, this suggests to me that the water level sensor is working correctly



    The water control valve has two wires leading into it. How do I test it?

    I can set the multi meter up for either an ohm or voltage test but from there I need assistance with what to touch with the red and black probes and what should I be getting as a reading?

    Does the machine have to be working?, in fact does it even have to be plugged in?

    Sorry to sound so dumb but an electrician, I am not

  • aridge212 Feb 08, 2010

    Thanks fisherman, I will not be able to try it until later tomorrow, but I will let you know how I make out.

    Alan

  • aridge212 Feb 09, 2010

    G'day Fisherman,

    When trying to get a voltage reading while the machine was running I heard a fairly loud "crack" followed by a smell.

    Now there is no water getting through to the macine and I can only assume I have burnt out the water inlet valve, so I guess that was not the problem.

    Incidently, both leads were brown.

    Alan.

  • aridge212 Feb 09, 2010

    Not sure if you received my message sent PM today.

    Any comment please.

    Alan

  • aridge212 Feb 11, 2010

    G'day Fisherman,

    No I did not get a new water valve, I will have to order and await its arrival.

    Did I place the wires in the correct order? As I have already explained, both wires are brown, how in the hell do I establish which is which?

    How do I find out If I have ruined the valve or shorted out the relay? Which one?

    I have now had a message from Charleymonty telling me it is a fault in the drain pump and that the machine is not detecting the darin pump.

    Okay over to you.

    Alan

  • aridge212 Feb 11, 2010

    Yes I can see us getting deeper and deeper..........

    You said I have probably shorted out the relay, can I get a reading without the machine being on?

    Can I do any damage with the probes?

    What is a good strong reading?

    Please remember that the water inlet function is not operating now..... can it still be tested?

    The two wires in question are brown......... there are no thin stripes on either of them.

    I did not chech the drain pump because it was pumping out water when it was on a regular cycle. Would that not mean the pump was working?

    The machine stopped when the water level in the flood tray reached a cetain height.

    I think you should recognise that I am a handyman..........not an electrician.

  • aridge212 Feb 12, 2010

    G'ay Kelly,

    Not sure where I go from here, it appears that I have been dumped by Fisherman and obviously I have caused more damage to my machine by using a multi-meter without knowledge of how it works.

    I have tried to explain everything as it has happened but I am no closer to solving the problem.

    I have looked for a float switch or sensor in the bottom of the machine but can find neither.

    There is a small yellow "adapting piece" in the bottom of the drain, which when removed allows finger access to the pump impellor but it does not appear to be related to a switch of any kind.

    Thanks,

    Alan

  • aridge212 Feb 16, 2010

    Hi Shastalaker and thank you for your detailed comment on 12th.February.

    Sorry for the delay in replying, I have been away.

    Please note our machine is a model D1796 and it was purchased in about 2003.

    You suggested the water pump may be faulty. I think not. I filled the machine with water manually and connected it to the power and it immediately pumped the water out.( seems to default to the progran it was on when it broke down and I guess it had reached a pump cycle)

    Hopefully this will rule out the pump.



    When it was able to take on water in working condition, water leaked or overflowed from a small rectanglar hole in the top of the "plastic wel" under the machine. The unit kept operating until the water level in the flood tray under the machine reached about one eighth of an inch in depth and the machine then stopped and displayed the F2 signal.

    As a point of interest it does not leak from this point if the water is added manually.



    I have searched for a float or sensor in the bottom of the machine but I can find no evidence of either.

    The only place I have not looked is in the fitting to which the lower spray arm is fixed. Seems an unlikely place!

    Can you give me any clues as to what I should be looking for.



    I have now taken the water inlet hose off what I believe is the water inlet valve. It is a nylon fitting with what must be a Relay plugged in to the top of it. This is the part I think I have fused when trying to do a voltage test. Two terminals attach to it , one is a single brown wire and the other is a double brown wire.

    The relay? does not seem to want to come way from the valve .....does it just pull out?

    It seems to me I can not progress any furter without replacing one or both of these parts. Can I have your opinion please.



    Please let me know if I have not explained anything clearly enough.

    Thanks,

    Alan



  • aridge212 Feb 17, 2010

    Hi Shastalaker7,

    I would like to switch to your advice please, mnfisherman put a lot of time into my problem but I thought it became too technical for me.

    I have followed the water inlet pipe up to a clear plastic"tank" on the side of the machine which connects to the inside with a plastic "grill" about three inches in diameter, inside the grill I can see a "gooseneck" about one inch high, could this be the float? It does not move if I poke it with a small screwdriver. I am reluctant to try and shift the grill because I am unable to see how it is attached to the outside tank.

    Of course it could well be that by replacing the relay and valve assembly, I could rectify the problem. Is that a fair assumption?

    The part is not available where I live and it will take me a few days to get it.

    Thanks,

    Alan

  • aridge212 Feb 18, 2010

    I sincerely hope all the "experts" at FixYA take the trouble to read this.

    About ten days ago, I posed what I thought was a fairly simple problem with our Asko dishwasher.

    I am a good general handyman and I have saved myself heaps of dollars by tackling all sorts of problems and breakages around the house. The dishwasher was new to me and so I sought your assistance.

    I have now had six solutions posted by various "experts" and I have come to the conclusion that there are times when too much information is dangerous.

    I attempted to use a multimeter without any knowledge of how it operated and resultingly fused a fitting which has cost me $53 to replace.

    At one stage I said I had had enough and was taking the machine to a repair agency but I was encouraged to keep trying.

    You see each of you seem to profess to know what is wrong and it is human nature to "give it another go".

    After talking to the person posting solution number four, I felt confident of fixing the problem but along came solution number six and the person posting was so sure he knew what was wrong that I decided I had nothing to lose by just checking his theory.

    The result was that I snapped off a small plastic fitting which is attached to the "sump' of the machine, by trying to remove the "pressure switch hose", a simple enough operation if everything is exposed but difficult when working from feel only.

    The broken part would probably be on the most expensive part of the unit and it is obviously going to be cheaper to buy a new machine than stuff around fixing what has been something of a dud.

    Your website is great but why the bloody hell do you allow all and sundry to start giving advice before the client (me) indicates he is not happy with his expert.

    Okay, I did the damage and the buck stops with me. As it happens, the hose was perfectly soft and clean. It was however, an expensive exercise to find this out.





  • aridge212 Feb 19, 2010

    Hi Mac,

    Thank you for the courtesy of your reply, it was appreciated and was the only one received.

    I was not blaming anyone but myself. The purpose of my post was express the view that I probably would have been better served dealing with one person at a time.

    The present sitution is that I hate starting a job and not finishing it, So I have been up to Perth and purchased a new sump assembly complete with pressure switch, and a new water inlet valve for $160. Now I have to make it work.

    I will ignore any other posts if you would give me a bit of guidance please.

    I have put all the components back together and switched it on only to find I have a pretty serious leak where the pump connects to the sump body. The pump does work by the way.

    I am pretty sureI have connected the pump correctly ( it only appears to go one way) but it is possible I have fitted the O Ring in the wrong groove. Come to think about it, I thought at the time it was fairly loose, should I have stretched it to fit?

    It is possible that by the time I get your reply I will have the answer because I am now about to dis-assemble the works again.

    Thanks,

    Alan

  • aridge212 Feb 19, 2010

    G'day again Mac,

    the problem referred to in my earlier post is because I have "crossed" the components when screwing on the pump.

    I have now removed the impellor and can see I do not have a clean joint. Or in other words, one of the lugs has not entered its groove and the pump housing is skew-wiff.

    Problem is it does not want to come apart and I am trying to coax it very gently to make sure I do not break either of the housings..

    I can only get about an eighth of an inch movement in the pump housing before the Lug makes contact with the sump.

    Any ideas please.

    Thanks,

    Alan

  • aridge212 Feb 22, 2010

    Hi Shastalaker,

    Could you help me please.

    I have replaced the plastc sump body which came with a new Pressure switch and hose (4 connectors) and I have replaced the water inlet valve and relay.

    When I turn the machine on, it seems to default to the middle of a program and it is necessary to manually fill the unit with water which pumps out as soon as the power is switched on. I wait for a short while and it commences its next operation but does not pump out sufficient water to move the spray arms. I have taken the arms off and turnrd the machine back on and while water bubbles out , it does not seem to be a very strong flow and is certainly not sufficient to get up to the top spray arm..

    There are no signs of leaks under the machine, the motor is working well and the heat elements are doing their job.

    I know this sounds to have been a disaster but at least I appear to have eliminated whatever was causing the unit to display the F2 signal and am not prepared to give up now.

    Thanks,

    Alan

  • aridge212 Feb 23, 2010

    H Mac,

    Are you able to help me please. I am not getting any resposes to my messages. Have I outworn my welcome at FixYa.

    I have replaced the plastic sump body which came with a new pressure switch and hose. I have also replaced the water inlet valve and relay.

    When I turn the machine on, it seems to default to the middle of a program and it is necessary to manually fill the unit with water which pumps out as soon as the power is turned on.

    After a short while it commences it's next operation but does not pump out sufficient water to move the spray arms, I have taken the arms off and turned the machine back on and whilewaer bubbles out there does not seem to be a very strong flow and certainly not enough to reach the top arm.

    The motor is working well, the drain pump operates, the heating elements are doing their job and there are no signs of any leaks or error messages.

    I have ensured that all hoses are clear.

    No water seems to be getting to the thin plastic tank on the side of the unit. It is connected to the NEW water inlet valve by a black hose.

    I am not sure why I am not getting any responses and I hope I can be advised if I have offendeed anyone. My email address is aridge@e-wire.net.au

    Thanks,

    Alan

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6 Answers

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  • Asko Master
  • 2,605 Answers

Hi Alan, The F2 on Asko means it's sensed an overfill, that in itself though can be provoked by a couple of thing's. First, check for blockage at the end of the drain hose where it connect's to your household plumbing, be it under the counter by the sink or wherever. Undo the hose and see if it drains freely into a bucket, if so the drain to that point is clear. Insure it is clear beyond and move forward. Next, If you turn the power off and then remove the kick plate/toe panel ( that in itself is tricky if you've never done it, I can try to explain if need be...let me know ) then with aid of a flashlight or equivalent, check the overfill basin for water. If water is present, this will initiate the over fill float switch directly behind the main line junction block, hence the F2. ( of course a basin full of water can be from a faulty pump too, but you'll know this if the unit wouldn't drain into a bucket ) Then you must find the cause or leak, check the rubber hose at the top of the motor to the tub and the hose from the sump to the motor...it's tricky unless you've looked many times like I have and know what to look for. I wish I could guide you better from afar. Also look for sign's of leaking to the fill valve assembly. Another possible reason to overfill, a clogged pressure switch hose. Right beside the float and overfill switch assembly ( in fact it is wired right to it ) you'll see to the right on the sump assembly will be a pressure switch and hose. The switch will be about 1.5" in diameter with a brown color body and 4 brown wires going to it. At the bottom of the pressure switch will be a skinny black hose, remove the hose and clean it out via blowing through it or other means, it often will get plugged with undesolved detergent, food or other debris. It just comes off with carefully directly pulling force. This is what tell's the unit when to fill and when not to fill, hence if it is clogged it will not fill. Once the leak is found or the problem found, use a large sponge to soak up the water from the basin and the dishwasher should be ready to go. Those are several thing's to look for before changing part's to try and solve your problem. Let me know if I can assist you further. Thank you for visiting "fixya" today. P.S. Having said all this, if you feel at all uncomfortable performing anything I've laid out, please call a qualified "Asko" authorized pro to come to your home for service. They usually aren't serviced by many appliance repair places, at least not proficiently in my providing factory warranty experience. Thank's again and good luck. macmarkus :)

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Feb 17, 2010

    Hi Alan,

    I didn't see any of the previous dialogue you had up to this point, my apoligize. I think I know what the problem is though after reading all of the history and trouble-shooting performed. Go to my previous post and look for the pressure hose and pressure switch. I bet dollar's to donut's it is related to the pressure switch or hose clogged.

    Let me know. I have a lot of experience with Asko and I'd love to help.
    Right now though I have to call it a night, it's 12:30am here.

    I'll check back in the morning.

    macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Feb 18, 2010

    Alan,

    I sincerely hope you are able to receive this as it is intended, with empathy. I would like to address your last post and inform you I did take time to read it and it was no "trouble" at all, I hope everyone else does as well. As an actual appliance technician by trade ( as well as being a factory trained & authorized Asko technician of nearly 15yrs. my suspicion was/is one of the most common reason, aside from an actual leak or faulty pressure switch itself for an F2 error code ) I regret not having been able to assist you. Typically when I see a post I try and provide a solution, it's virtually second nature. However, if I had noticed you had so much "expert" advice thrown your way before I posted I would have backed away because I would side with you on the idea too much info is counter-productive in many cases.

    I am sorry for your unsatisfactory experience and even more so for having played any part in that experience. I will not try to , nor should I speak on behalf of the other member's here, just from me to you. I wish we had spoken from a clean slate in the beginning as I believe a lot of this would have been avoided.

    Good luck moving forward, I hope you will accept my sincere apologize.

    Regards,

    macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Feb 24, 2010

    Hello again Alan,

    I hadn't had much time to spend on here lately. My day job has been requiring most of my attention lately and I'm also in the midst of relocating my family. I will try to set aside some time this evening because I've read your progress post's and I want to be sure we communucate accurately to be clear of what's been said & done and not just try and rush through this for the sake of saving face for anyone or whatever. I don't particularily like trying to do this while on my iphone as I am presently either. Also, speaking on my behalf only of course, I was not offended by you in anyway, I understand how frustrating one can get when up to your elbow's in a problem...believe me lol ! I wish I had some help in certain area's of life (relocating to another country can be such a pile of...well I'll leave it at that ). I'll be back around 4 - 6 pm mountain time ( north america ). I'll check in once in a while to see if anyone else has assisted you before then.

    Regards,

    macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Feb 25, 2010

    Hello again Alan,



    I`ve got some time here for a bit, let`s try and get to the bottom of the dishwasher trouble.



    I want to start by clarifying some terminology uses as well as what`s been done thus far. You stated the sump with pressure switch has been replaced as well as the fill valve ( water fill valve ) and relay...this sound`s like the terminology issue I referred to. The only relay`s which exist on this dishwasher are integrated into the electronic control board, so I assume you are referring to the solenoid/coil on the fill valve assembly (black component`s the wires connect to on top of the valve body ).



    Now some question from me to clarify the symptom`s...



    1) Does the unit fill with water on it`s own, and if so how much ?

    2) When you mention "pumps out as soon as the power is turned on and "does not pump out sufficient water" does this mean it isn`t circulating/washing ? or draining out/pumping out ?

    3) Do you mean the tub isn`t filling on it`s own when beginning a wash cycle when you say "No water seems to be getting to the thin plastic tank on the side of the unit."



    If this is the case, I want to back up to a section I read in one of your posts regarding the fill valve when you where testing the original. You said then "When trying to get a voltage reading while the machine was running I heard a fairly loud "crack" followed by a smell". This raises a red flag to me. Have you visually inspected the control board ? If not, you should.



    Here`s how...



    Disconnect the power first obviously, remove the screws along the side of the inner door panel which fasten`s the outer panel to the inner. Now the panel should come off with some careful placement of your hand`s as the edges are quite sharp.



    Now remove the screws along the top of the control panel and the control panel should come off with electronic timer still intact. Observe the back side of the control, it will have a thin clear plastic protective cover, don`t touch the control if possible or make sure you don`t have any static charge built up in you as not to do any damage via "ESD" ( electro-static discharge ) look at the printed circuit`s particularly. You will be looking for any sign`s of shorted circuit paths.



    Try this before we move forward, obviously if the control was damaged from the shorted valve test, anything else would be futile.



    Let me know Alan and we can go from there. good luck.



    macmarkus :)

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  • Master
  • 2,468 Answers

Check the water inlet valve,if its defective this will trigger an F2 code also

Posted on Feb 16, 2010

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  • Master
  • 1,515 Answers

Hi Alan, Its good you took the steps from the manual to try and solve this problem. I am assuming this machine does not run at all at this point? Anyway, it sounds to me that it is possible that the water pump could be bad or maybe just stuck. Sometimes debris can get around the impeller causing this problem, even though it was replaced 3 years ago. You would think it would last much longer, I would say.With the F2 message being displayed saying the tub has to much water we know is a false reading. Do you have excess to the float on this unit to see if it is possible it may be stuck in the full position? If this were happening it would give this code. I assume this is a 1996 model and I am not sure how the float and switch are set-up on this unit, but try and check to see if you can manually raise and lower it, you should be able to here a click as the set of contacts open and close when the unit is filling with water on its fill cycle. This may change the code of saying it is to full. I would also go to the breaker and turn it off for at least 5 minutes minimum, to see if it will reset this unit. I know there is power to the unit as the displays are on. If you try starting the unit, it will not start filling with water? If not, you can manually add water to the unit if you can see the float switch and, after the breaker trial is done first and doesn't take care of resetting of you're machine, you can try this and stop adding water when you hear the float switch contact click. I would then turn the unit to the pump out cycle to see if the pump is energized to pump out the water.This will tell you if the pump is good or bad. I believe that the pump is good and you are getting false signals for one reason or another. Anyway Alan, try and check the things I have asked of you and get back to me on this. I would like to continue to help you solve this problem, but I will be gone from 7:15 am and return home at around 12:30 pm this morning. I am a contractor and have a service call scheduled for this time:( It is now 7:00 am here in Ca. I will return and check to see if you have gotten back to me on this.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Posted on Feb 12, 2010

  • 1 more comment 
  • Robert Horton
    Robert Horton Feb 16, 2010

    Hi Alan, and thanks for getting back to me. This is currently locked out to another expert, but I can say that yes the relay and valve assembly is the water fill assembly that you have fused , 2 brown wires on one side and 1 one the other connector. If I remember correctly, you will have to remove the fill valve and relay as one unit.If you can follow the inlet hose past this valve, it will take you to the float assembly. I have seen them on the side if the unit on some models. Please let me know when the other tech is done.
    Shastalaker7


  • Robert Horton
    Robert Horton Feb 20, 2010

    Hi Alan, I do want to say that I think that you did everything possible to follow so much advice which in turn ended up costing you. A lot of solutions were given to you, and it is very hard at times for us techs to always get it right. Its best to be on site to deal with these problems, but we give it all we have to come up with a solution for the people we are trying to help. I hope you get through this with out spending the $$$$ for a new one.
    Best of Luck,
    Shastalaker7
    PS As far as shorting out the relay with the voltmeter,would be very hard to do? I can see you shorting out the meter if it were set on ohms and you tested a live 120 volt circuit? Normally, the meters have a fuse to protect them against this. You would have to wire the relay wrong to blow it?


  • Robert Horton
    Robert Horton Feb 23, 2010

    Hi Alan. No , you haven't offended me at all. Things just seem to have got out of hand and a little crazy at times. I assure you we are here to help as much as possible and sometimes it is difficult to help if your not on site to see the unit your self. It sounds as though that you have most of everything working except the water into the unit. I have seen this plastic fitting on the side of the unit on some models that the rubber hose connects to and when the water solenoid is energized it sends water to this and out a hole to the inside tub to fill with water. I have seen the air vent get plugged before and in turn cause this plastic fitting to leak water out everywhere.I would think that my next step would to be to go back through the fill cycle and try and find why there is not enough water going to the machine to fill it properly. You may have a bad spot on the timer control itself if it stops at a certain place.You might get the timer information and try and make some calls to see what the manufacturer says about this. I think you have done a excellent job so far as you jumped right in there with about 8 techs helping you with different problems. You got it back together. No its just a matter of it quitting in the middle of the cycle and not getting enough water to it. I wish that I could be of more help to you, but I would check on that timer and see what you can come up with on the water shortage. I give you the best of luck on this Alan, and wish I could be there to help you out. Let me know whats going on.
    SincerelyShastalaker7

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  • Asko Master
  • 3,740 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

Inside your machine there is either a water level float or a sensor.

This is the FLOAT for yor machine located in bottom of the tub. Usually when you get an F2 error this float is stuck in the up position or there is debris preventing it from lowering.

Once you clear everything as you gently lift it up and down you should hear a CLICK.

If you hear the click(s)..... and it still shows F2 then the Float switch underneath the tub has failed.


If you need anything more just repsond here.

Thanks again.

Kelly

Posted on Feb 11, 2010

  • Kelly
    Kelly Feb 11, 2010

    Hi Alan,



    Looks like your already working with another expert. I will politely bow out of this one until and let you work with him. Your comment that the water had shut off once it reached a certain level already put my float switch thought up in "smoke".



    Best of luck with the fix but will be watching and reading your progress. PLEASE don't rate my responses as I was unaware you were working with another expert. Thanks and again Good Luck.



    Kelly

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  • Master
  • 3,741 Answers

Yes its the fault in the drain pump. either the drain pump is got worn out or its getting blocked .the drain pump needs replacement .the machine is not detecting the drain pump.its either got loose. many times removing the pump and cleaning it then again refitting solves the problem bit if that does not helps then the drain pump needs replacement. You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Posted on Feb 09, 2010

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Take the outer door panel off and check for broken wires in the loom, running down from the control circuit at the top of the door. There should be a wiring diagram inside the door, this will tell you where to check on the programmer to test the resistance of the circ pump.
Either that, or check the pump by removing the toe panel at the bottom of the unit, The circ pump is the big one at the back.
Check for leaks in the base. remove plug from wall and remove both the kick and service panels, get a torch and switch 'er back on. Run it through a cycle.

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

  • 10 more comments 
  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 07, 2010

    To test continuity, you would use an ohmmeter in the ohm position, placing one probe on each side. You can also do this for the door latch which someimes goes faulty. An F2 error means a plugged drain or faulty drain pump, somehow the drain cycle is not draining.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 08, 2010

    the pump is loose, broken propellers, or not spinning. Or there is an air leak somewhere.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 08, 2010


    The water inlet valve is on the inside of the machine right exactly where the external hoses attach to. If they are not shutting off completely, they could bring in too much water but you would have a different error code.


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 08, 2010

    It's definately worth a look!

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 08, 2010

    If the machine is not draining all the way or does not quit filling, then you intlet valves either have to signal from the control panel which is also set by the water level sensor. The water inlet valve could be faulty itself if there is power to it and it doesn't quite filling. You best bet is to test it with an ohmmeter/voltmeter before disassembling and concluing that this is the problem.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 08, 2010

    Yes the water level would indicate that the sensor is working. The valve should have 2 wires. One for positive and one for negative. What colors are they? With the voltmeter on and the machine on, put the red probe (positive) on the brightest colored wire which is most likely a positive wire and the black (negative) probe on the darker colored wire. You should have anywere from 9-13.5 volts.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 08, 2010

    To see if a water valve is stuck open which would result in flooding of the machine, disconnecting power from it should immediately stop any water flow through the valve. If it doesn't then the water inlet valve is faulty.
    From further studying your model there should be 120 volts to the valve. When power is applied, then valve should open and allow water flow. When power is cut off, valve should close.


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 08, 2010

    here is an illustation:



  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 08, 2010

    Ok, I will look forward to hearing from you tomorrow.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 09, 2010

    Did you get a new water valve? Did you place the wires on in the correct order. Red for positive and black for negative? If done correct, you should get a reading, if put on backwards you can ruin the valve.
    Or just short out the relay which is likely what has happened


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 11, 2010

    I had mentioned early to check drain pump and circuit with a meter to see if it is working properly.
    To check a relay, use an OHMMETER in ohm positon, placing one probe on each side to see if you get a good strong reading.
    If both wires are brown, one should have a thin black stripe on it for the negative side.
    You can use an OHMMETER on the valve wiring connections in OHM setting to see if you get a reading on the valve itself.


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 12, 2010

    there may be a water level sensor. I don't know for sure with your model. It would sense water level and shut of inlet valves when it gets to a certain level. If there isn't a sensor, then there could be a float.
    The relay can be tested without the machine being on. Remember that you can use an ohmmeter safely with the machine on or off. Unlike a voltmeter which is more tricky


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My Asko Dishwasher D1976 on the main panel all of the top lights are on and in the display window it flashes F2. The motor is on but nothing else is happening can you help. I have checked that drains are...


Hi


Error F2 in asko dishwashers indicate high water level. This may happen due to plugged drain pump or due to faulty water inlet valve. To resolve the issue remove the back plate and check the drain pump. Disconnect the hoses from the drain pump and clear the lint from the hose and the pump area. Lot of water would be ther when you'll remove the hose from the pump, be ready to collect it. Let it dry and now the dishwasher will work perfectly now.

Hope it helps...

Daniel

Apr 22, 2011 | Asko D1976CSTM Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Our dishwasheris a D1796. Does not have FI written on it. Appears take three hours to wash the dishers this morn. We have been away for the weekend and left it going whilst away.


Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description...and provided the dishwasher is indeed 1. an Asko D1796 ( the FI just means it's the same as yours except it's "fully integrated" )and 2. is filling with water, washing, heating and draining without any error codes...an extremely long cycle an manifest from poor draining or poor heating etc.



My first suggestion would be the need to perform a diagnostic/fault trace program by following the steps below to see what errors are present, if any.

You'll need to be familiar with the control layout for the test to begin. This is how the buttons/display is identified in the diagnostic...

macmarkus_287.jpg


Now you can enter the fault trace by way of the following sequence....

macmarkus_288.jpg


I'd pay particular attention to the heating and making sure your inlet water is hot.


Let me know what you find and I'll try and help you move forward from there...you may opt to call in a pro but that's up to you.

I'll watch for your reply.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Jan 31, 2011 | Asko D1796FI Built-in Dishwasher

2 Answers

F2 error message after dishwasher backed up when draining. Asko brand.


Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Error F2 in your Asko Dishwasher means high water level. This error occurs due to plugged/bad water pump and/or a bad inlet valve. If the water pump and/or water inlet valve are bad it should be replaced to resolve this issue. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Jun 26, 2010 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Asko 3350 F2 fault meassage keeps flashing


you have a blockage try the drain spigot under the sink or the pump may be blocked.

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1 Answer

Asko 1895


water in base remove dishwasher and tilt to side and it will restart,but you may have a leak,also check the inlet valve may not be closing fully.hope this helps.

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2 Answers

Asko D1796F1 builtin...lights are on but no one is home


Our Asko D1796 dishwasher has the lights on the panel working as usual but you can't select a cycle and it won't turn on. We unplugged the pipe. If we turn it off and wait for 12+ hours we have gotten it to work twice.

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12 Answers

Asko Dishwasher F2 Error Flashing


F2 flashes, and wll not stop runing. No water in pan. help

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2 Answers

Asko 1796 F2 problem


It sound like you have a blocked or a malfunction pump. Remove the pump from the machine and check whether you have a clogged inside the pump or in one of the pipes connected to it. In case all is clean, you should replace the pump.. Good luck !

Aug 27, 2007 | Asko 24 in. D3250 Built-in Dishwasher

3 Answers

F2 Error Message on my Asko D1776


F2 error message means that you have a high water level problem that could be caused: - A plugged or bed water pump - A defective water inlet valve (stay open) Good luck !

May 21, 2007 | Asko D1776 Stainless Steel Built-in...

2 Answers

F2 error message flashes, cannot reset.


Try to find out from where water leaking from (pump or inlet valve). The leaking one, should be replaced. Good luck !

Apr 22, 2007 | Asko D1976 Built-in Dishwasher

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