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Kenmore dryer Model 110.86982 Year 1989 does not heat

I think it is the High Temp Stat in the heating chamber. It tests open. Does it actually cycle during the run? The thermal fuse is closed. I have read that they need to be replaced together. Why. I know it would not be recommended, but can I jump this switch to get the wet clothes dry for tonight before replacing?

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If you bypass the hi limit thermostat you will blow your thermal fuse within minutes. The hi limit thermostat is a bi-metal thermostat which warps when heated to kill power to the element. If its bypassed then the element will not turn off.....which will in turn blow your thermal fuse which is rated at a higher temp than the hi limit. So unfortunately it will not work.

Hope this helps _MJ_

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Whirlpool Dryer IED4400SQ0 wont heat


Check your thermal fuse and the thermal cut-out fuse, two different fuses that can cause a dryer to run and not heat when open, or some dryers will not start when one of these has gotten too hot and opened....Usually caused by venting restriction of too much lint, common problem...........

A open operating thermostat or the high limit being open are also possible........;.

The other checks are live voltage checks, timer contacts, wiring, temp and internal motor switch......schematic is probably in back of control panel........
Takes some reading of a wiring diagram, understanding how to split the circuit ............Not for beginners.............Hope this helps...........do not forget to unplug dryer when doing anything on unit besides live voltage checks on circuits,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Mar 12, 2014 | Whirlpool Inglis IP8200 Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool dishwasher stuck in cycle


I found this:There are are 2 stats, hi limit and operating. You should find them attached to the pump housing. It gets a little tricky but the problem will boil down to one of the stats is bad or the heating element itself is bad [or something like a wire burned off at the element which will be obvious]. It can get a little tricky. I would start by checking to see if the element gets hot during operation. If no, ohm test the element itself. If ok, ohm test the high limit stat, it should be closed at room temp. If ok, try bypassing the operating stat and see if the element now gets hot during operation.

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/kitchen-laundry-large-electric-appliances/386770-whirlpool-dishwasher-gets-stuck-cycle.html#ixzz1kDTDjTm7

Jan 22, 2012 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Propain gass dyer. runs but very little heat. replaced gas valve coils and no change. Now I believe I have to check limit switches, but not sure how to test..What about the RADIANT SENSOR? NEED...


Hi.

More than limit switches if burner is turning on but heating is poor you should check cycling themostat and then blower motor, lint filter and parts comprised in blower assembly.

When the problem is the high limit, there is no heat at all.
When the problem is radiant sensor, there is no heat at all.

Poor heating means either: defective cycling thermostat; clogged air ducts; defective blower system, problem with timer or temperature selector.

If the heating turns off in the middle of the cycle check also door switch.

Here Cycling thermostat:


10_22_2011_10_57_23_am.gif

The cycling thermostat is located in the blower assembly. Here removal instructions. Disconnect power first:

10_22_2011_11_00_07_am.gif

The thermostat can be tested using a multimeter. Set the multimeter on impedance (Ohms). Good thermostat will read about Ohms at room and will read open (infinity) at 150F.

Once in there also check the thermal fuse and check blower assembly. Remove lint and make sure blower is working. Thermal fuse is tested reading impedance across its two contacts. Remove fuse from circuit and touch with multimeter probes fuse's contacts (same for thermostat). If fuse is good it will read zero Ohms or very little impedance. a bad fuse reads infinity.

Check also the exhaust. Make sure there is no blockage.

Operations are illustrated from page 72 of service manual: Here the service manual.


10_22_2011_11_09_36_am.gif

About the flame sensor, that is a part that rarely fails. If the dryer ignites the radiant sensor is not responsible for the fault.
The radiant sensor is mounted in parallel with the coil.



When temperature is reached the sensor opens up allowing power to burner valve (valve 2). Testing the flame sensor like a thermostat is difficult because it opens up at high temp. I read volts while operating. I suggest users carrying only maintenance that can be performed with power off.

10_22_2011_11_18_01_am.gif

If the burner shuts down at random more than the sensor check the door switch. Run a cycle with door switch contacts jumped.

Start checking cycling thermostat and air ducts, those are problems that usually cause low heating.

Regards.

Ginko

Oct 21, 2011 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs, no heat, element OK 10.5ohm, Hi limit thermostat .8 ohm, next one is thermal cutoff or operating thermostat, open no meter readings. Part # FSP 3399848 could this be my problem? Thank You


Hello,

Both the Thermal cutoff and the operating t-stat should have ZERO ohms resistiance 0.8 is fine but open on either they are bad

That part number you have listed is what ya would need..even if only the thermal cutoff is open replace both the thermal cutoff and high limit t-stat at the same time

also if the cycling t-stat is open replace it too...if its fairly modenr and hasa digital display the cycling thermostat is a thermister and at room temp that will be about 5.8 thousand ohms

if has timer the cycling t-stat will look like the high limit t-stat and should be closed

GENE

Aug 29, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Hi, Our dryer runs but doesn't heat. We checked the power source, heating element with ohm meter but it was fine. What else should we check? Thanks.


Hi.

If the dryer runs there is no problem with power. If the appliance runs but does not heat the problem is one of the thermal devices. The dryer comprises one thermal fuse, several thermostats and the element. Thermal fuse and thermostats must be checked along with the element.

Start from the thermal fuse. The fuse can be tested reading impedance with a multimeter. If the fuse is open it will read Ohms infinity. In that case replace the fuse. Here the part: ASSY-BRACKET (THERMOSTAT) (Thermal Fuse with Bracket).

The fuse is part n.15 in Diagram one below. Click on the picture to enlarge:

ginko_278.gif

If the fuse is OK, or if replacing the fuse did not help test the thermostats. You have the following parts:

THERMOSTAT - Part 11 in diagram

High Limit Thermostat -Part 13 in diagram

THERMISTOR - Part 27 in diagram

If the appliance is running the door switch should not be the problem. If you need test also the DOOR-SWITCH.

The thermostats can be tested reading impedance. If there is no heat, then one of the thermostats is open and will return Ohms infinity. Other way to test a thermostat is by jumping its contacts and running a controlled cycle to prevent overheating.

Regards.

Ginko

Aug 09, 2011 | Amana NED7200TW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Electric dryer spins no heat, replaced heater element and high limit thermostat, tested thermal fuse and it does have 0 ohms, thermistor reads ~50 ohms.


in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

Jul 20, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Hello. My Whirlpool LER7646EQO does not heat. Everything appears to work except the heat. I unplugged unit and removed the back cover but do not have an ohmmeter to test the fuses. The heating coil has no...


There is a thermal cut off that will open (non reset) this comes as a kit with a high limit t/stat
but you need to figure out WHY it opened, it is due to over heating of the element
which can be poor and or no air flow, faulty cycle (temp) t/stat or moving parts (seals,rollers etc)
worn out.

Jan 24, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

My oven is not heating up to higher temps. Also the door doesn't seem to close all the way like it used to unless we push on it. The temp will get into the 300 range but not broiling.


Hi,

oven door not closing::

There are a number of reasons why you may find that your oven door won't close properly, and troubleshooting oven doors is not too complicated, so you should be able to manage this in a few hours. When you are trying to decide what is the cause of your oven door not shutting properly, you should be able to identify the different problems, and also understand how to repair the door without too much difficulty. If you find a lot of problems, then you may need to provide a different solution, for example replacing the door and fittings completely.
Latch is Broken This is perhaps the most common cause of the oven door not closing properly. The latch is supposed to connect to a hole in the oven itself, but sometimes the latch can become stuck, and it may also be improperly greased. If the latch is sticking, then you should try adding a drop of oil, and trying again. Other reasons for the latch not closing properly include dirt being trapped in the hole on the other side, or the latch itself being cracked and not fitting correctly into the hole. The latch can also be completely replaced if you find that you have repeated problems with it.


No heat but otherwise normal operation If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse. Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses.
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
  • Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open winding in HV transformer. See the section: Testing the high voltage transformer.
  • Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
  • Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section: Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.
A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.
Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation This means the controller thinks the oven is working but the microwave generator AND motors aren't being powered. Note that these symptoms are subtly different than just having no heat and eliminates the actual components of the microwave generator from suspicion in most cases.


Hope it helps

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Oct 28, 2010 | Thermador SMW272 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Model 721.64282 microwave/convection oven - microwave not heating and making a loud noise. convection oven works


No heat but otherwise normal operationA shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.

A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:


  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses.
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
  • Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open winding in HV transformer. See the section: Testing the high voltage transformer.
  • Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
  • Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section: Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.

Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.


If you are interested in doing it yourself the following link will help : Microwave Repair Manual

(**All the above references to tests are found here)

Oct 21, 2010 | Kenmore 63663 Microwave Oven

2 Answers

Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cutoff Wiring


the thermal cut off wires do not matter how you put them on.. The high limit is wired in series with the heating element.one red thick wire to element the wh/red top side of the high limit stat out of the high limit sat(other side) then goes to the other side of the heating element

Feb 20, 2008 | Dryers

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