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Kenmore dryer Model 110.86982 Year 1989 does not heat

I think it is the High Temp Stat in the heating chamber. It tests open. Does it actually cycle during the run? The thermal fuse is closed. I have read that they need to be replaced together. Why. I know it would not be recommended, but can I jump this switch to get the wet clothes dry for tonight before replacing?

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If you bypass the hi limit thermostat you will blow your thermal fuse within minutes. The hi limit thermostat is a bi-metal thermostat which warps when heated to kill power to the element. If its bypassed then the element will not turn off.....which will in turn blow your thermal fuse which is rated at a higher temp than the hi limit. So unfortunately it will not work.

Hope this helps _MJ_

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Continues to blow the high temp stat. I clean the blower and replaced the venting. I also replaced the heating coil the dryer heats up for a load and then it stopss heating. I test the high temp stat


DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q

Feb 17, 2015 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite HE4 Gas Dryer Shuts off prematurely in the Auto Dry cycle and the Timed dry cycle


Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Jul 19, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

No heat in dryer mode


In electric dryers, heat is generated by the heating element. The element is a coil of heating wire enclosed in a metal chamber. Electric current flowing through the coil creates heat and the air being pulled through the chamber absorbs this heat. If the element is defective then it will not heat. It can be tested with a multi-meter for continuity. Unplug the dryer and remove the front or rear panel to locate the element so it can be tested.
The high limit thermostat is a safety device mounted on the heating chamber and is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating when the exhaust vent is restricted. A restricted vent will cause the high limit thermostat to trip or activate, interrupting the circuit to the heating element or gas valve. The high limit thermostat is not designed to activate repeatedly like a cycling thermostat and will eventually fail causing a no heat symptom. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. If there is no continuity then it will need to be replaced and the restricted vent system corrected as well.
Cycling thermostats control the temperature inside the dryer drum. They are designed to "cycle" the heating element on and off to maintain the correct amount of heat. Cycling thermostats are normally located on the blower housing or elsewhere in the internal airflow ducting. Over time, the cycling thermostat can become defective. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter.

Dec 02, 2013 | Splendide 2100 Vented Washer-Dryer

1 Answer

Kemnore 80 electric dryer: dryer spins, light works, heat does not work...used multitester on ohm setting to test for continuity on coil and thermal fuse...both seemed to be fine...back to square zero


Hello,

In addation to testing the element and thermalfuse what ya need to check is both of the thermostats that are on left side of teh housing where the heat element fits into,both of those should have zero ohms resistiance,also should check the cycling t-stat there where the thermal fuse (in the blower housing) be sure to not confuse the thermal fuse which is the blower housing with the thermal cutoff which is on the heater housing that and the high limit t-stat are the ones in the heater housing and are the most likely things making the dryer not heat.

If all above checks to be good, the timer, or the motor is whats wrong causing it to not heat.


GENE

Sep 20, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs, no heat, element OK 10.5ohm, Hi limit thermostat .8 ohm, next one is thermal cutoff or operating thermostat, open no meter readings. Part # FSP 3399848 could this be my problem? Thank You


Hello,

Both the Thermal cutoff and the operating t-stat should have ZERO ohms resistiance 0.8 is fine but open on either they are bad

That part number you have listed is what ya would need..even if only the thermal cutoff is open replace both the thermal cutoff and high limit t-stat at the same time

also if the cycling t-stat is open replace it too...if its fairly modenr and hasa digital display the cycling thermostat is a thermister and at room temp that will be about 5.8 thousand ohms

if has timer the cycling t-stat will look like the high limit t-stat and should be closed

GENE

Aug 29, 2011 | Dryers

2 Answers

My kenmore 600 dryer will not heat up, what could be the problem?


No heat problems are caused by several things.
First lets do the easy thing and turn off the Dryer CB by pushing it HARD to off and then back on. Re-test for heat.
Next try different cycles as in Air Fluff, Delicate, regular etc... Air fluff is no heat but see if it heats on other heat temp selections. If you get heat on a different heat selection then the problem is probably an open thermostat. If you still get no heat the most likely suspect is the heating element. If the heating element is fine then your looking at the motor switch or wiring as the problem. Component of last resort to replace is the timer.
At this time I suspect either a high limit thermostat or an open heating element.
Mond you since you did not include your complete model number this response if for an electric dryer. IF your dryer is gas respond with a model number please so I can point to other things that cwill cause a no heat symptom.

Thanks for choosing FixYa, Kelly

Aug 04, 2011 | Kenmore 600 6962 Dryer

1 Answer

I have a kenmore gas dryer, the drum turns but no heat, I replaced the radiant sensor and the control thermostat but still no heat?


here is a partial list of componets that could cause the dryer to not heat
Ignitor
control t-stat
high limit t-stat
gas valve coils
thermal cutoff
thermal fuse
flame sensor
electronic control/or timer depending on your exact model
cycling t-stat
motor

Jul 23, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Hello. My Whirlpool LER7646EQO does not heat. Everything appears to work except the heat. I unplugged unit and removed the back cover but do not have an ohmmeter to test the fuses. The heating coil has no...


There is a thermal cut off that will open (non reset) this comes as a kit with a high limit t/stat
but you need to figure out WHY it opened, it is due to over heating of the element
which can be poor and or no air flow, faulty cycle (temp) t/stat or moving parts (seals,rollers etc)
worn out.

Jan 24, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore dryer model #86870100 runs but no heat


this kit mounts on the heater element chamber. The small one will be open. The big one failed also because it is rated to shut down @250°F. The little guy is rated at 300°F. NOTE: when this limit fails it is a sure sign of a blockage of lint somewhere.8e8a912.jpg

Dec 15, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Extremely low drum heat but setting is on HIGH.


Electric (Kenmore - 60931) dryer takes forever (several cycles) lately to dry clothes set on high heat (actual heat in tub feels low though). There are no obstructions in the venting and the 240 volt connection is fine. The timer rotates the dial (timer motor working). Help!!!

Sep 15, 2008 | Zanussi TC7102W Electric Dryer

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