a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hi jchp_2001, I want to help you with your question, but without more information from you, I can only guess what you mean?
What do you mean by "sharp spots"? I will assume that you are talking about speckles of white or colors in the deep shadow areas of your pictures or in black areas of night time exposures. What you are seeing is electrical noise generated by your camera's sensor and amplified by other electronic circuitry in your camera. Newer and more advanced cameras have higher signal-to-noise (S/N) ratio circuitry that reduces, but does not entirely eliminate the problem. The S/N ratio is a measure of how much stronger the picture information is than the electrical noise (analogous to to the static you hear on a week AM radio station). The higher this ratio, the fewer artaffects, such as spots, will appear in your pictures. There are a couple of ways to lessen this problem. You could use a shorter exposure time, lower the ISO setting on your camera (of course that would increase the required exposure time and my nullify the benefit), or illuminate the shadow areas with supplemental lighting. The other way is to buy a newer camera that has a higher S/N ratio. One of the main goals in new sensor and camera design is to raise the S/N ratio. Trading in your D40x on a newer model DX (24x16mm sensor) format camera will help. The reason that professionals more advanced photographers spend thousands of dollars on full frame (36x24mm sensor [the same size as a 35mm film slide]) digital cameras such as the D600, D610, D800 or D810 is because the larger sensors have an inherently higher signal to noise ratio. That is in part why your D40x gives you better quality pictures than a Coolpix camera for example, which has a smaller sensor.
Slow down your shooting. The "R11" indicates
that you can take 11 more images before the buffer is full and the
camera will stop functioning until the images are moved to the memory
card. Select a smaller file size. Nikon cameras allow you to select from
several sizes of JPEG as well as a RAW and a RAW + JPEG file. These
files vary in size. If you select a smaller file size, the buffer will
take longer to fill, allowing you to shoot longerTurn off long exposure noise reduction. This function causes the camera
to expose twice for every image, and this can fill up the buffer quickly
as those images are processed and written to the card.
Select a smaller file size. Nikon cameras allow you to select
from several sizes of JPEG as well as a RAW and a RAW + JPEG file.
These files vary in size. If you select a smaller file size, the buffer
will take longer to fill, allowing you to shoot longer.
Turn off long exposure noise reduction. This function causes
the camera to expose twice for every image, and this can fill up the
buffer quickly as those images are processed and written to the card.
1. Turn the rewind crank gently to take up any slack in the film.
2. Take your first photo. The 3800N has a special lens mask to help this process by blanking out one half or one quarter of the image, on other cameras a thin card mask over the lens achieves the same effect.
3. Hold the camera so that your thumb or finger is firmly on top of the rewind knob to stop it turning, whilst doing this press the rewind button on the base of the camera and then operate the film advance lever. By holding the rewind knob and pressing the rewind button, you allow the shutter to c0ck without advancing the film.
4. Turn the lens mask to cover the portion of the image which was just exposed.
5. Press the shutter using the same exposure value (EV) as previously used. Usually you'll use the same shutter speed and aperture, but by varying them and maintaining the same EV you can get some interesting effects.
6. If you're exposing more than two exposures on one frame then repeat as often as required.
7. Note that this is and always has been a bodge: the film frame often moves slightly between exposures except on a few specific SLRs which had a special multiple exposure setting. The V3800N is advertised as a multi exposure model but has no specific control for it, just the plastic lens mask.
if the camera is on a very reflective surface such as sasnd or snow, sometimes the light meter can be fooled and so you have to try to find a snow mode or manually increace the apeture or shutterspeed or lower the ISO you might also check to see if the camera is set on a very high ISO, or very low apeture or shutter speed, another possibility is that the exposure level is set very high or is locked so the camera will over expose, also if you focus the camera on a dark object, then the rest of the picture will be over exposed, so try to focus on a object that is about halfway between black and white.
If you press the film release button like you are going to rewind exposed film you may be able to activate the film advance lever to cock the camera so you can take another picture, and the film should stay on the first exposure allowing you to re - expose it. I would underexpose each image 1 F stop because.you are exposing the same film twice. Double exposures are always an iffy proposition and anything can happen. After the second exposure cocking the film advance should allow the film to advance once again. You might test this on the final pictures on a roll in case the camera won't start advancing the film after you try it. This way you won't blow a whole roll worth of pictures testing it.
I assume this is no longer under warranty. This more likely to be a case of not pointing the camera correctly when pressing the release if for example you press the release firmly and dip the camera down in so doing it will register a shadow the camera moves up on exposure and you get a burned image. Try various experiments in the mode see what happens. As regards a repair it is likely the cost would be as much as or more then a new replacement Contact the Nikon customer support
Hey xplaur, To take a multiexposure photograph you should first expose the film, and then push the multiexposure button which is on the front of the camera on the top left when you are looking at the front of the camera. After you press this button advance the winding lever to set the shutter, and since the multiexposure button was pressed this shouldn't wind the film to the next frame. Now take your second exposure, and if you want to make another exposure on the same frame repeat the process. Keep in mind that every time you expose a single frame after the initial exposure you will be doubling the exposure on the frame. I usually under expose each exposure by one third on a double exposed frame. If you do more than two exposures I would underexpose each exposure by even more. Multi exposures are fun but tricky, and I would suggest you experiment and have fun with it. I will also say that black and white film is much more controllable and forgiving when it comes to this than color film. I hope this helps! Sincerely, Allan Go Ahead. Use Us.
I bought a seagull 4a-105 camera and the film advance never seems to be consistent. Often times the frame counter numbers are not centered in the viewing
bubble. When I go to have the film processed, I have had as many as six
to seven frames either double exposed, or no exposure in the frame. The
best that I have managed out of 12 frames is 8 frames done
correctly. I followed the directions and threaded the film to where the
arrows align with the marks, but still the problem persists. Is the
film winder the culprit? If so, how can I repair it? The camera
cost me $217 new, and I can't justify spending $200 to repair it when I
could buy a used Yashica online. Any help or advice is appreciated.
Not all cameras can do this. The Nikon N8008, for example, allows you to specify the number of exposures for each frame. The N80, on the other hand, doesn't. You have to cancel the Multiple Exposure mode to advance to the next frame, then set M-E again.