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Heat pump doent kick back on after defrost-blows 5amp breaker

I have a Carrier Heat Pump System. It’s about 5 years old and has functioned OK until this Christmas Eve. One problem is the condensing unit is not kicking back on after it goes into defrost mode. I found a 5AMP fuse blown in the attic unit and once replaced it functioned. At least for a day or two (I’m guessing until it went into defrost mode again). My thermostat blinks “heat on” but will not communicate to turn the heat pump back on (regardless of time-frame). The “on” fan will kick on if done at the thermostat but not “auto” (in heat mode). When I go to “Em Heat” it kicks on immediately & works as intended. I’ve learned it heats better than nothing. I had a few local Heating & Air guys come out to service/fix ect. One of the two companies went to get parts on the 3rd of January…..guess he’s not coming back. 2nd guy was here 30 min, pumped $600 of Freon in the system and was gone before I could get home from work (30 min away). He also found and fixed something loose up close to the breaker that has blown a few times. It worked a week (warmer weather) then more of the same. When I went up to change the fuse in the attic it was not blown. When I turned the breaker back on located on the attic unit it starting working (had left the thermostat set to “heat”). Only thing I can come up with is loose wires or circuit board??? Later that night I had to go back to Em. Heat and can’t seem to rattle it back to life. Can you damage by overcharging the system? Tech told me no leaks in system-if installed correctly 5 years ago is that possible? Wow……………….that ended up more like a novel!?! Any direction would be appreciated…….its cold!

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If you continue to blow the 5 amp fuse, you have a "short" in the control circuit. It could be the reversing valve solenoid coil (very rare) or it could be in the wiring. It is possible that you have a wire with cut or melted insulation that is causing the low voltage short. If this is happening only during the defrost cycle, then you want to check the wires going from your defrost board to your reversing valve solenoid coil. Also check the wires going from the defrost board to the defrost thermostat. Often, some electrical tape and some wire ties to pull the wires away from the area that damaged the insulation is the only thing that is needed to correct this problem. I hope this helps. Good Luck!

As far as the refrigerant is concerned. Yes, it is possible to overcharge a system. It would have to leak out, but it is not uncommon to charge a system that has 5 years and perform a quick check for leaks. Sometimes systems have very slow leaks or the leaks reseal after time. It is better practice to charge it, look for obvious leaks and then see how it does than it is to spend hours looking for a leak that may not be found. It costs you more money and the tech more time. Hopefully, you used a reputable company to charge this system.

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

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