Water is getting to the filter but not coming out the tap . I left the handle on for over two min to see if it had air in the line

some new faucets come with there on supply lines when you tighten one will twist at the top near the faucet look under the sink to see if this has happened. i've had it happen not long ago

first its important to understand how humidifiers work ,


they work by using a pressurized source of water (prefer demineralized) that enters a chamber that has a device that wicks the water up into it , then a fan induces a draft across it , this produces evaporation of the water into the air flow , this air is then ducted into the air handler for the structure (home?)
now that being said the water chamber needs constant refilling due to evaporation of water from air flow , most times this is handled from a solenoid valve that is basically an electric operated valve , and yes it's logical that it could be tied to a humidistat for demand use only .

also this type of humidifier requires frequent cleaning or it may back up and spill water in the wrong places ,especially if there isn't a demineralizing filter on water line , as the minerals that naturally occur in water don't evaporate and get left inside the chamber , making less and less room for new water to be added

It is best to replace the line inside the door that goes to the pressure handle. Check the inside of the water supply line at the back of the fridge to insure it doesn't have mold. A chlorine solution will kill the mold but will leave the lines stained black inside. Installing a filter in the fridge line, some fridge makers sell them for their units helps prevent mold spores from getting inside the water lines. In most cases, only the small, short water line in the door tap is all that is affected.

Hard water deposits from the water heater in the supply lines to the faucets. Sounds like your water heater needs to be cleaned out -- not just drained of water. You need to get inside and clear out the deposits in the bottom of the tank. You also need to remove the hot water supply lines to your faucets and see of you can get the lines to run free from the deposits -AFTER you clean out the water heater. Remove the drain -put on a 3/4 in. ball valve for the drain and a hose bibb on that - you can hook up a 5/8 - or 3/4 inch hose to get the particles out of the drain of the water tank. You may have to blow back the water line, from the faucets, the hot water lines- to get the deposits out of the water lines. You also may have to blow out the faucets with the water line disconnected to clear the calcium out of the hot side of the faucet.

The plastic feed line from the inlet valve in the bottom right hand side of the back going up to the top left hand side feeds the filter. You can shut-off the water from the house tap, and then cut the plastic filter feed line in the middle somewhere, and install a john-guess coupling on the inlet valve end of the cut line. Then you can tip that line into a bucket, turn on the water tap and see if water comes out into the bucket, if it does, then proceed to the next step.
Sometimes the filter cartridge has a thin piece of plastic that remains on the cover, obstructing the water inlet ports in the filter housing. Always use a mfg.'s specified filter, not a Chinese "Knock-Off".

first check the water inlet tap
if the water from the tap does not has moulds then your refrigerator has moulds in the water line
for this you need to dispense water regularly untill the moulds gets lesser and lesser

also observe if that mould is really a mould or something is coming off your refrigerator dispenser
could be silica from previous filter
cannot confirm unless you observe the mould.

Thanks

If you have an air gap faucet and the water is coming out there. The drain, for the RO, is plugged up or the drain line is pinched.
RJ

Check the water supply lines feeding the refrigerator for crimps or hard turns and even if someone put a self taping tap valve as a shut off. They tend to restrict flow. If you find a tap valve remove it and have Tee placed there with a shutoff. It also does not hurt to pre-filter water going to the refrigerator. Lowes or Home Depot have some good in line filters that you just plug feed in one end and supply to fridge on other end. If it had air in the water you would have dripping all the time and noise of air rushing out once the dispenser valve is pressed. I am checking if your model has a filter somewhere. Have someone turn water off and disconnect the water feed from refrigerator and place lin in a pan or container and then have the turn it back on so you can visually see the flow. Disconnect power so if things get out of control water does not cover the electrical parts of the refrigerator. Let me know, Thanks Sea Breeze

Hot water line connected to left side of faucet? Did you replace tap set, or just cartridge? Cartridge may be out 180 degrees.

Hi: You press the switch and it makes a faint humming noise. That tells me the switch on the front panel is ok. The switch for the ice and water is actually on the bottom of the ref. The internal system of the ref is not under city water pressure. Ice is made so that's ok. There is a solenoid where the water attaches to the fridge down below which can fail. Just for giggles try tapping the switch with the plastic handle of a screwdriver. To loosen any scale that might have built up. As I'm unemployed also I'm giving you that trick. Otherwise I would just say replace it. I hope this helps, Jeff