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Underwood 5; unattached belt on left rear ''wheel''? end of belt has a metal clip, where does it attach?

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This could be the Drawband to pull the carriage to the left as you type. If so, it clips on to the underside of the carriage at the extreme right end. You will first have to wind up the spring drum "wheel" for about five turns to give it some tension.

Posted on Apr 24, 2010

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Christine: According to VintageTypewritterShoppe.com: "Underwood portables have a simple carriage catch on the left side right below the carriage. Move the carriage to the right a few inches to disengage. Remington portables have two systems. Early portables require the sliding out of the platen shaft/knob on the right end of the carriage. The lock lever is located on the left end of the carriage and is spooned against the left side carriage release lever. Newer Remington's(Model 5/Streamliner/Deluxe) have a small lever on the left end of the carriage located in the same spot as the earlier models. There is a little ball on top of the lever. Push the lever to the rear to disengage the lock."

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Remove rear wheel on 2012 flhtc harley


To remove a 2012 TOURING rear wheel FIRST remove the saddlebags, then raise the wheel with a suitable lifting device and rotate the wheel and inspect the wheel bearings. THEN remove left side muffler, on models equipped with low profile shock absorbers (FLHX, FLTRX), remove the left side lower saddlebag support rail and if ABS equipped remove the cable strap to releasethe rear wheel speed sensor cable from the rear brake hose and at no time ever left any magnetic force field exist or be close to the speed sensor or it will be ruined, remove the rear brake caliper but do not disconnect the brake hose, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard or otherwise appropriately support it, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, hold the weld nut on the left side of the axle and loosen the cone nut on the right side of the axle using an AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIM's or H-D (HD- 47925), remove the cone nut and the adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the left side of the axlecounterclockwise until the wheel is loose, remove the axle from the left side of the motorcycle, catch all of the external spacer(s), caliper bracket, and rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) as the axle is removed, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear fork, move wheel forward enough so that you can and slip the drive belt off of the compensator sprocket, if needed remove the brake disc from hub and be careful that the drive sprocket does not fall off and get damaged as you remove the wheel from the bike, mark the wheel and the disc for re-installation in the same orientation.

To install a 2012 TOURING rear wheel you will need FASTENER TORQUE VALUEs. The brake disc (rear) screws are 30-45 ft-lbs 41-61 Nm; (Do not re-use brake disc/rotor screws because re-using these can result in torque loss and always reinstall a brake disc in its original orientation); the rear axle cone nut (preliminary - 15-20 ft-lbs 20-27 Nm) (Final 95 to 105 ft lbs 128.8-142.4 Nm ) ; Brake caliper (rear)mounting fasteners 43-48 ft-lbs 58.3-65.1 Nm. If the brake disc was removed from the wheel ALWAYS reinstall it in the same orientation with the wheel as when it was removed and ALWAYS use NEW attaching screws and tighten them in a crosswise pattern to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), verify that the sprocket is square to and fully seated in the bowl area of the wheel, place the wheel into the rear fork with the drive sprocket installed, install the belt over the drive sprocket and then slide the wheel back to take up the slack, seat the brake caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear fork, apply a light coat of wheel bearing type grease (H-D suggest silver anti-seize compound but this technician finds almost all seized, corroded axles were lubricated thus so do as you feel best) to the axle to the bearing bores and to the bore of the spacer sleeve, slide the axle through the left side of rear fork, the thin external spacer, the sprocket and into the wheel hub out the other side of the wheel hub and through the rear wheel speed sensor if ABS equipped and if ABS equipped ensure that the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the rear wheel speed sensor are on the outboard side or through the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the brake caliper bracket, and the right side of the rear fork, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and with the adjuster cam section forward, install the adjuster cam on the right end of the axle, apply a light coat of SILVER GRADE ANTI-SEIZE (H-D Part No. 98960-97) to the inboard side of the cone nut but NOT the threads, install the cone nut on axle finger tight only, if ABS equipped route the speed sensor cable forward and outboard of the brake caliper bracket, continue forward following the top of the rear fork, rotate the speed sensor in a counterclockwise direction until the index pin makes contact with the brake caliper bracket, tighten the cone nut to a preliminary torque of 15-20 ft lbs (20-27 Nm), install the brake caliper and tighten its screws to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), secure the rear wheel speed sensor cable to the brake hose with the conduit clip located approximately 1.25 in. (31.8mm) in front of the brake hose crimp, adjust the drive belt using a belt tension gauge, final tighten the cone nut to 95 to 105 ft lbs 128.8-142.4 Nm, install a new E-clip with the flat side out in groove on the right side of the axle, on models equipped with low profile shock absorbers, install the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install the left side muffler and tighten its fasteners to 96-144 in-lbs 10.9-16.3 Nm,depress the rear brake pedal a number of times to set the brake pads properly against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and THEN road test the vehicle.

May 28, 2014 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

How to remove 2008 rear wheel fatboy


To remove a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST block motorcycle underneath the frame so that theweight of the motorcycle is off of the rear wheel, remove saddlebags if equipped, remove the belt guard and the debris deflector from the rear fork, inspect the wheel bearing end play and service the bearings if and as necessary, label the wheel spacers for left or right locationand orientation i.e. fork side or wheel side, remove the rear brake caliper from the caliper mount and support it using an elastic cord or such,For the FXCW/C modelsthe nut retainer will remain in the axle nut and does not need to be removed and if it is removed it must be replaced. For all but FXCW/C remove e-clip, remove the rear axle nut, and for FXCW/C remove the rear axle nut, loosen both axle adjuster screws an equal number of turns to remove tension from drive belt, with a suitable drift or other tool tap the axle towards the right side and remove it, remove the spacers and the caliper mounting bracket, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off of the sprocket, raise the motorcycle to allow enough clearance for removal of the rear wheel and pull the wheel with the belt sprocket from the rear fork.

To install a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease to the axle, to the bearing bores and to the bore of the inner sleeve, roll the wheel into place in the rear fork and slide the drive belt over the drive sprocket, position the left bearing spacer between the wheel and the fork, from the right side carefully insert the axle (with its washer for FXCW/C models) through the right rear fork, the short spacer, the rear caliper mounting bracket, the long spacer and into the bearing bore, continue sliding the axle through the wheel hub sleeve, the left side spacer and the left rear of the fork, install the washer, the axle nut, and the retainer, verify correct axle alignment and the check belt deflection, check the wheel bearing end play after tightening the axle nut to the specified torque because excessive end play can adversely affect stability and handling and insufficient end play can cause bearing seizure, tighten the axle nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.5 Nm), install the belt guard and the debris deflector, install the brake caliper and pads, install the saddlebags, if equipped, pump the brake pedal to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against pads, verify the position of the brake pads against the brake disc, rotate the wheel to check for any interference(s) or misalignment(s) and test the brakes for proper operation.

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1 Answer

The drum seems loose and is make a metal on metal sound when turned on.


your problem is the rear support bearing [part#5303281153 / about $30.00]
unplug the dryer / lift the top (there is a spring tension clip about 3-4 inches under the front of the top / use a flat blade {like a putty knife] to press in the clips / remove the front [a phillips screw coming in to the front from inside the dryer cabinet, on the left and right side / disconnect the wires to the door switch / front will tilt towards you and slide off two bottom clips / disconnect belt by reaching behind blower housing and pulling the belt off the pulley / remove drum / part of support bearing it attached to the tub, and the other part is attached to the dryer cabinet [if you get a FrigidAire factory part, it will have instructions]

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Open the hood. Remove the black plastic grill assssembly ( Laying horizontal between the radiator and front bumper). There will be a couple of plastic screws (or some other fastening system) for this part remove and set aside. There is another black plastic grill assembly standing vertical. Remove similar fastening devices and set aside. IF DURING THIS ENTIRE PROCESS there is ANY part that does not come off freely after removing a fastening device (plastic screw, metal screws, hex bolts, bolts) LOOK FOR A PLASTIC CLIP - unclip that as a final step in each of these processes. To continue, Each headlight is attached by three hex or phillips screws.- Remove them and set asside. There is a major clip attaching the headlight at the top. Unattach this and gently remove the entire light housing. The housing will be the unit containing all parts high beam, low beams, side lights, and blinkers. It is a nice tidy unit. To continue, look for a black plastic removable panel on the back allowing access to the back of the bulbs. Remove the 5 screws and set asside. You now have access to the bulbs. The bulbs are attached by a solid plastic clip. Grab the back of the plastic bulb housing and turn about a half of an inch to remove the bulb. Unattach the clip from the wirering harness and you will have the bulb removed. CAREFULLY remove the new bulb making sure not to touch the glass portion of the bulb with hands directly. Skin oils or other debris is not recommended to get on the bulb. Deliberately refasten the bulb wiring harness and replace to the back of the reflection housing. Reassemble all devices. Rinse wash repeat for the other side :)

This seems complex for the task at hand and it is. But from the perspective of repairing a front end after a minor collision is is wonderful. Enjoy...

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2 Answers

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1 Answer

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just finished taking mine apart 3hrs!!! ok cartridge not moving cause there's a little clip that's attached to a biger clip that's attached to the metal long rod in which the cartridge moves on top of got loose from the belt or just came of from the bigger clip.
now the little clip on mine came of and luckily i found it inside the printer.
steps:
1-took out about 10 screws to take cover off.(some sides snap off after removing screws)
2- remove 4-5 screws on top which holds a metal long slim frame on TOP of cartridge.
3- remove 2-3 screws from left side (facing back of printer) from the metal thin "ROD" on which the cartridges slide on top of.
4- lift up that rod and slide cartridge to left, mine didn't came out completely but enough to be able to work behind it.
5- if the little clip came off (and hopefully u found it)then reattach it to the belt.
6- take out the belt from right side, connect it again to the little clip, reconnect the little clip to the big clip, put back belt, big clip etc.
7- u have to play around a little to figure out how the clips go together and where exactly the belt goes.
GOOD LUCK cause i had 2 figure it out solo but finally finished w/ hands full of ink!!!

eddie kc

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1 Answer

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1. take off the front wheels by squeezing the two buttons on the aluminium tube just up from the wheels.
2. slide the metal clip up the groove in the tube.
3.use the two velcro straps around the tubes that support the rear wheels to hold up the rear of the basket.
4.re fit the front wheels and make sure the buttons snap into the holes in the tube

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1 Answer

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1. Disconnect power
2.Use Putty knife and push in to release two spring catches between top and front panel about 3 inches from either side. Top then lifts up. Undo two hex screws on either side of side panels close to top. Front panel then tilts forward. Un-clip door switch and wiring harness before lifting off front panel. If belt is broken, drum should lift off by slowly raising front of drum to disengage wheels at rear of drum.
3. clean accumulated lint from inside fan housing and duct work on front panel as well as from total inside of dryer base before placing new belt around drum, smooth side up before carefully replacing drum in place to engage two wheels at rear of drum.
4. reaching left hand under drum, raise spring loaded idler arm and place ribbed side of belt around pulley on end of motor with right hand before releasing idler arm to provide tension on belt.
5. Place front panel on bottom clips and reengage door switch wiring harness before reattaching hex screws at top of side panels.
6. drop top pannel of unit in place to reengage spring clips before reconnecting power

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