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My Miele W842 does not complete a wash - it stops with the Anti Crease light lit and the Rinses light flashing. There is soapy water in the drum with the clothes at this stage. Miele just say that this means the drum is not rotating but it will do a rinse cycle or a spin cycle with nothing in the drum and the drum is rotating apparently correctly. Water comes in, is swirled around, drained and the spin works and finishes - although there is a light rattling sometimes. I wondered if this sound could be the motor brushes rattling around as they get to the end of their life - the machine is 10 1/2 years old. I have noticed that during the rinse cycle sometimes various of the other indicator lights flash on and off for a very short time. Light that have flashed include various spin speeds, washing stage lights and the Check Drain and Check Inlet lights. All Miele could suggest that it could be either one of 2 modules at significant cost. I assume they meant the 1N1 EL-2xx or 2N1 EDPW-2xx. I have opened up the front door and removed the 1N1 EL-2xx and the only thing of note was dsome light black deposits around the PCB relay RT424012. Any suggestions as to what is the problem and remedy and can individual components on the board be replaced successfully as I have access to at least some of them.

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  • 4 more comments 
  • jhbnd_ygs Feb 07, 2010

    Original post lists symptoms and requests solution to problem - i.e what is wrong and remedy.

    Reply does not help in this - or even give information on likely future problems.

    Answer to original post still needed.

  • jhbnd_ygs Feb 07, 2010

    Many Thanks for the suggestions.



    Regarding the dampers, with heavy loads e.g. towels it bangs around on spin but otherwise it seemed to spin ok.



    What checks can I do to find out if the dampers are OK? If they are not Ok is it still worth repairing or am I likely to have ongoing problems in view of the m/cs age?

  • jhbnd_ygs Feb 12, 2010

    Many thanks for your original comments and subsequent advice on dampers.



    On the basis of your advice I bought some brushes and fitted them.



    My W842 is now working fine again and the dampers seem fine.



    Thanks again.

  • jhbnd_ygs Feb 12, 2010

    Very helpful. Gave me confidence of solution plus useful advice on otherv things to look out for.

  • jhbnd_ygs Feb 12, 2010

    Brushes replaced and machine now working correctly. Have since been told that reason rotated when empty is that worn brushes can pass sufficient current to do this but not for a loaded machine.



    Athough the front panel of the machine can be removed to gain access to motor, for those not used to the procedure of changing brushes on this type of machine, better access and visibility is gained by placing the machine on its side with the soap dispenser drawer uppermost. If doing this lift/lower machine in correct manner for handling heavy items and use appropriate blocks on top edge to avoid trapped fingers/make it easier to lift it up again. Also remember to disconnect electrical supply before starting.



    Front panel is opened as follows:-



    Remove soap dispenser - need to push down on latch device near rear of drawer to remove it.

    Remove kick panel at bottom - 2 T20 headed screws behind plastic covers.

    Unscrew 3 T20 headed screws from around soap dispenser drawer aperture - 1 is in recessed hole at bottom left.

    Remove 3 hex headed bolts from around drum aperture (at 2, 6 & 10 o'clock positions)

    Release clip holding bottom left of panel - I found it easier to loosen the screw holding the clip in position rather than lever it out of the slot.

    Loosen the screws holding the lid in position (at the side near the front) to allow the front panel to swing open without hindrance. You may need to free the plastic manual door unlocking device from the slot in the filter housing.



    To change the brushes proceed as follows (there will be lots of carbon dust so the use of suitable gloves is recommended):-



    Carefully remove the 3 connectors from the motor after noting their position. From left to right on mine there was a 2 blade, a 5 blade and a 3 blade connector. Note that as well as keys on the top, there are latches on the bottom so they need to be prised off carefully and care is needed when replacing at the end of the job.



    Remove the 2 T20 screws holding the motor cover on and remove the cover - there is a conical barb engaged in a rubber grommet mounted on the motor bracket which has to be disengaged.



    There is a plastic end plate on the motor which is the brush carrier. This is removed after undoing the 4 T20 screws holding it on. Note that the end plate is in 2 pieces - the outer is held on the inner by latches at either end. The complete unit should be removed. It may be a little difficult to remove as at each corner there are posts with electrical connections into the motor body. Also if the brushes are not completely worn they may catch on the central boss with the front bearing.



    After noting the orientation of the chamfers on the ends of the brushes, they can be removed in their holders together with their rubber block mounts after the plastic retaining plates are removed. The brush connectors can then be removed from the blade connectors in the end plate. Before reassembly carefully clean all loose carbon dust from the end plate and check the motor commutator condition.



    The replacement rubber block mounts in the official Miele kit (£26-44 Feb 2010) did not have the additional rectangular protrusions on the original blocks and did not locate the brush holder as securely in the end plate so I cleaned off the originals and reused them.



    The brushes as supplied are recessed in their metal holders. They are held in this position by a friction grip from a tab in a cut out on the side of the holder. They are best left like this until the end plate is back in its final position.



    The brush holders have tabs on their side and the rubber mounts fit between them to hold them in the correct position. Once the brushes/holders and rubber mounts are clipped back into the end plate mounts the brush connectors are fitted to the terminals on the end plate - it can be hard to push them on.



    The end plate assembly can then be replaced - taking care to correctly align the 4 posts with electrical connections at the corners - and the retaining screws replaced.



    The brushes can then be made to engaged onto the commutator by applying gentle inward pressure on their outer end with a suitable screwdriver. You should be able to feel them spring into position.



    The motor cover can then be replaced taking care that the sound reducing foam is correctly positioned and the screws secured.



    The motor connectors should then be replaced in their correct positions as previously noted and taking care that the latch mechanism does not stop them being reinserted.



    If opened the front panel assembly should be resecured by reversing the process - taking care to position the manual door lock device in the slot in the filter housing and not forgetting the clip on the bottom left of the panel.



    If the fault is not cleared then the cause could well be the card module with PCB relays mounted at the top /inside of the front panel.



  • jhbnd_ygs Feb 14, 2010

    Before opening the front panel, you need to unclip the filter drain hose from the inside of the filter access door in the front panel.

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Check the inlet filters, clean the filling chamber and dispenser, take the top off and check out for burnt smell or broken belt in the machine. but if every thing is ok. Fault lies in either the motor or the circuit board. It is easy to check the brushes on the motor by a visual check - bit of a pain to remove the motor. you will find a relay to be fused and the fuse blown. the fuse is soldered onto the circuit board. After you open the machine you will find a circuit diagram in the machine which enabled me to diagnose the fault. the parts are available from farnell components and the cost is about $30.00AUD delivered overnight. but as you mentioned the drum is moving/spinning properly and motor is checked ok and brushes are fine on the moor.then its confirmed problem in the electrical panel and the cost is [£120]. the board is most probably not repairable part.on that some parts can be changed and checked like fuse the thermal fuse or transistors. but other then this the board has to be replaced. You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

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  • Master
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Hi,
As you seem pretty competent I'll dispense with the "unplug" routine.

Treat the main motor to a new set of carbon brushes, and give it a blow out with canned air.
Machines of this age can suffer loom faults at tie-on points, so check these carefully.

If the motor still does not want to spin with a load in there, then replace the motor run capacitor. When these go weak, it reduces drive, so the motor just "kicks" the drum slightly.
Feel free to remove boards to check them, as the action of removing and re-making connections is often all that is needed to remove slight corrosion on the terminals.
This age of machine also show wear to the dampers - lots of banging about if they are shot.
Best of luck.

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

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  • Richard Perkins
    Richard Perkins Feb 08, 2010

    Just re-read your post.

    You said the drum rotates fine with no load - but only on a rinse and spin. This would indicate that the heating element or thermal fuse may be at fault if it does not ever heat up.



    Unplug, then test water heating element for Ohms , and also the two thermal switches for continuity.

    One switch will be a thermal fuse, the other a standard bi-metal switch. Both can fail during normal service.



    Simple check.

  • Richard Perkins
    Richard Perkins Feb 08, 2010

    Regarding dampers, it is a progressive fail. If replaced they will prevent damage to the main door seal and other components.

    Drum should not contact outer casing if the dampers are ok.

  • Richard Perkins
    Richard Perkins Feb 08, 2010

    Thought I'd replied further to this - yet I can't see it. Maybe lost or hiden maybe?



    I did just say to check heating element for low ohms reading, and check both water temperature switches for continuity. One will be bi-metallic, the other a thermal fuse. Both should show continuity when cold.

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For being 10 years old it is time to replace this machine. more problems will incurr very soon with these models

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

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