Question about Amana ARB8057CSR Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Bottom freezer will not make ice already tried the blow dryer trick several times no luck

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  • Amana Master
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Add water manually to the ice mold, if it kicks out a batch then you need to replace the water valve and changing water filter would not hurt either.
I fit fails to produce ice or has ice in it and won't dump then you have a bad ice maker most likely, HOWEVER, before you go and buy another one cover all your bases. Make sure you have good air flow over those condenser coils below, your kick plate is nice and clean, and your freezer temp is 25f. How it works:
GREEN LED INDICATOR LIGHT — Lens mounted on right side of cover to show power is on. Also used to indicate icemaker fault conditions, like an open or shorted thermistor, or a harvest cycle that takes longer than 30 minutes. Fault mode is indicated when the LED blinks 1/2 second on, 1/2 second off indefinitely until icemaker is turned off. ELECTRONIC CONTROL BOARD AND INTERNAL COMPONENTS — The Electronic Control Board is secured by three Phillips screws within the control housing. All wiring uses plug-on terminals. The electronic control board contains two hall effect sensors (similar to electronic reed switches) which are activated by one magnet attached to the end of the ejector arm to determine if the motor has reached the “home” position and one magnet attached to the sensing arm to determine if the “feeler” or sensing arm has reached the fully extended position. (Ice has not prevented it from moving outward to the fully extended position). THE SENSING ARM OR “PADDLE” moves laterally or horizontally (not up and down) THE THERMISTOR is mounted in the mold body directly behind the control housing. It has two functions: 1) to measure ice temperature during freezing, 2) to determine water level during the fill cycles. (This icemaker can have up to 3 fill cycles: 1st fill is 5.1 seconds, 2nd fill, if needed, is 2.5 seconds and 3rd fill, if needed, is 2.4 seconds) The thermistor is looking for a temperature in excess of 39.6°F (4°C) to terminate the fill cycles. Once this temperature is reached, or is exceeded, the icemaker will start the freeze cycle. If after the third fill, and the temperature has not reached 39.6°F, the control will override this requirement and the icemaker will automatically enter the freeze cycle. THE FREEZE CYCLE is the period of time where the icemaker is waiting for the cubes to freeze solid. This is based on an algorithm programmed into the electronic control board. The electronic control board makes these calculations once per second and monitors the thermistors’ current or present resistance value as well as the rate of resistance change. This will take into account the various environmental conditions that vary the freeze times, such as control settings, door openings, room temperature, etc., but the average cycle is said to be 75 minutes to drop the 7 cubes in the icemaker mold. THE HARVEST CYCLE begins when the freeze algorithm (programmed into the electronic control board) has been satisfied and the sensor arm is out or fully extended. If the arm is in the “in” position when harvest is to begin, a delay of 3 minutes will be added once the arm is moved to the extended position to allow for drawer type ice buckets to be removed for this amount of time without starting a harvest cycle. This 3 minute delay will begin again if the arm goes back to the “in” position anytime during the delay period. This arm is spring loaded to go to the “out” position unless it is being held in the “in” position by an obstacle such as an ice cube. At the beginning of the Harvest Cycle, the mold heater will activate. One second later the motor will start. The heater will remain on until the mold temperature reaches 35.6°F (2°C) and a minimum of 20 seconds have elapsed. If necessary, the heater will cycle within a range of 32°F “cut in” to 35.6°F “cut out”. To assure that the motor makes a complete revolution, the control checks to see if the motor is not “home” for at least 10 seconds and the sensor arm is “in” for at least 10 seconds. When the ejector then reaches the “home” position, this completes the harvest cycle and the motor will turn off. If the harvest cycle, which consists of one complete revolution, is not completed within 7 minutes, the control will assume that a cube is blocking the completion of the cycle and will initiate a “Harvest Fix Mode”. If the Harvest Cycle is not complete within 30 minutes, the electronic control board will assume some other problem occurred and will enter the “Fault Mode” which will cause the LED to start blinking in an 1/2 second “on” 1/2 second “off” pattern. THE HARVEST FIX MODE occurs when the harvest cycle is not completed within 7 minutes, as mentioned earlier. This is achieved by raising the mold temperature to 68°F “cut off” temperature, with a 59°F “cut in” temperature. During this mode the motor will cycle off 10 seconds per minute of cycle time. If the motor reaches home position, a second revolution of the ejector will occur to verify that there is no more blockage. At this point, the control board will initiate another freeze cycle without a water fill to avoid a double shot of water from entering the mold. As mentioned earlier, the control will enter a Fault Mode if a harvest cycle (including a harvest fix mode) is not complete within 30 minutes. POTENTIAL CAUSES FOR A HARVEST CYCLE TO TAKE LONGER THAN 30 MINUTES AND THUS ENTER A FAULT MODE (LED BLINKS): Stuck ejector — caused by a cube that was not cleared or a mechanical problem.
Bad heater — caused by open circuit, control board triac or thermal cut out.
Bad motor — caused by open motor, or control board triac.
Motor home position not operating — caused by control board or loose magnet (the result will be continuous ejector operation).
Thermistor — open or shorted. THE WATER FILL CYCLE occurs when the harvest cycle is completed and the icemaker is “pre-chilled” to 35.6°F. This pre-chilling of the mold allows the thermistor to better detect the level of the water. Water entering the icemaker mold will cause the mold temperature to change, effecting the resistance of the thermistor. The thermistor has a negative temperature coefficient. This means that an increase in temperature will cause a decrease in resistance. The first fill cycle activates the water valve for 5.1 seconds. After this fill, there is a 15 second delay to allow time for the
thermistor to “read” the water temperature and thus determine if the mold is sufficiently full. If the temperature exceeds
39.2°F (4°C) after this delay, the icemaker will end the water fill cycle and initiate the freeze cycle.
The second fill cycle is initiated if the temperature is still below 39.2°F after the 15 second delay. This second fill will be
only for 2.5 seconds, and again, another delay for 15 seconds will be made to allow time for the thermistor to determine if
the temperature has reached 39.2°F (4°C). If so, the icemaker will end the water fill cycle and initiate the freeze cycle.
The third and final fill cycle occurs after the 15 second delay if the thermistor detects that the water temperature still has
not reached 39.2°F (4°C) . The third fill cycle lasts 2.4 seconds. After this, the icemaker control board is programmed to
override this temperature requirement and will end the water fill cycle and proceed to the freeze cycle. The point of all these fill cycles is to help compensate for low water pressure and hopefully avoid the “ice cubes stuck in the ejector” problems that is so common with low water pressure. POWER ON DIAGNOSITICS TEST MODE When the icemaker is first connected to power and the thermistor temperature is 50°F or more, the control will initiate a “Power On” test before entering the freeze cycle. The test will consist of the following sequence:
1)Turn on the motor until it reaches home position
2)Turn on the water valve for 1/2 second
3)Turn on the heater for 1/2 second
4)Verify that the feeler arm was in the “in” and then the “out” position.
5)Verify that the motor was not in the home position and then in the home position.
6)Verify that the motor does not remain on after being turned off.
7)Proceed to the freeze cycle. SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS TEST MODE During the first 15 seconds that power is first applied to the icemaker, the Service Diagnostics Test mode may be entered. The Service Mode is entered by pushing the feeler arm in and out three times within 15 seconds. (only three times). There will be only one fill cycle (5.1 second) in the service diagnostics mode without the waiting period for the mold to “pre-chill”. If the icemaker has already started a harvest cycle and the arm is moving, it may be impossible to start the service mode. (since the NORMAL cycle is already started). While in the “Power On Diagnostics” test mode, the “Service Diagnostic” test mode can be initiated and will override the “Power On Diagnostics” test mode. This icemaker has no replacement parts available and is not intented to be repaired.

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Feb 06, 2010

    Your unit may not have a paddle , it could have a sensing arm but basically they all work the same.
    Gosh I looked up your model number and you have a different ice maker sorry bout that. Your ice maker his a modular one. I would add water to the ice mold if it is empty and see if the ice maker makes a batch ,if so then the water valve is suspect. If you have water in there you probably have a bad ice maker, but you need to make sure the temp in the freezer is 25F and the air restrictions under the ice box are clear. Check for voltage between T and H
    if you have 120 volts then the bi-metal (inside that ice mold
    thermostat) is bad. If it's good you will have 0 volts.

    Ice mold thermostat

    Located in the plastic housing and seated against the ice mold is
    that thermostat. This looks intimidating but is easily fixed by anybody
    who could change a spark plug. There is no wiring.

    One more thing to look for: You can put a jumper between L and V
    and this will activate the watervalve. Have rags ready! If you are a
    cheapskate and want to be frugal and not buy a new ice maker or a new
    head(brain)


    modular crescent
    ice maker

    you may want to remove the main gear and clean the copper plate
    behind it. That plate gets dirty and won't allow for a good contact
    with the water valve connection and does not power up the valve...Shhh!
    They will all be doing it!

    Modular crescent Icemaker test points:

    With NO power to the icemaker, and
    ice ejection fingers in the freeze position:
    Your ohm meter should read 8800 ohms between L and M,
    and 72 ohms between L and H.

    With power ON to the ice maker:
    If meter reads 0 volts between L and N you have no power to the ice maker.
    If the meter reads 120 volts then you have power to the ice maker.
    If you have 0 volts between L and H heater is off if you have 120
    between L and H the heater should be ON. If you have 0 power between L
    and M the motor is off. If you have 120 between L and M then the motor
    should be ON. If you have 0 volts between T and H the thermostat is
    closed If the meter reads 120 between T and H then the thermostat is
    OPEN. If the voltage is 0 between N and V the water valve is closed. If
    the meter reads 120 water should be filling the mold.I have a video and I have a manual HERE


  • Dan Webster
    Dan Webster Feb 06, 2010

    The manual a how to video HERE

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a samsung refrigirator side by side with a bottom freezer door. It is leaking from the bottom of the right side of the freezer right of the free


Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer
Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then
Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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When you finally get everything open, you should check the condition of the door seals, make sure the evaporator fan is operating (if circulated the cold air up and also remose the humidity from the freezer).

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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