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Re: 4 wire oven thermal overload cut out
Your heater is probably equipped with a bimetal thermal switch to prevent overheating and, if it is like most made in China now, it is defective or at least highly inaccurate. Look for a thick (4-5 mm), button-like device customarily with two terminals and a diameter of 1.5-2.0 cm. Bypassing it will expose you to a loss of hearth and home if the regular control cicuits fail. Rather try this; locate the device, use a metal shield to divert some of the heat which will allow it to serve its original function as a safety.
This point of failure is shared with a majority of drip coffee makers that fail way too early.
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If there are no other connection ports, and you only disconnected the three, it is possible that (if this is an aftermarket wiring harness) the third was put in for similar units with an additional option of some sort, and is not needed for your model. However, I highly suggest referring back to the place of purchase, as well as the manufacturer to find out for sure before plugging the unit in and using it.
Please let me know if you need further assistance,
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its the thermal cut out. replace it. ISOLATE oven. slide oven out a few inches, remove knobs, remove front panel(two screws) you will only be able to pull panel 3-4" due to wires. Cutout has 2 blue and 2 white wires.. you may need to snip a couple of cable ties. Put new cutout in one wire at time( easy to forget where they go) Tidy up wires. Put cover back. Secure oven in hole. Turn on power. Reset clock(otherwise won't work) Done 10 minute job
Your terminal block has been by-passed . Hook your black cord wire to the black screw on the terminal block. Hook your white wire to the white screw on the terminal block. Hook the bare ground to the exterior ground screw. The 2 wires that are wire-nutted together will have to hook to the red wire on the cord.(they originally went to the third connection on the terminal). You will probably have to cut and strip the red cord wire and attach it with the 2 wire-nutted connections.
It could be a fuse or thermal cut out, you can test it with a meter. you should have continuity through it, if not then it is faulty.
If you do not have access to meter, then if take a piece of wire and connect it to the fan terminal and connect the other end to the origin of the ceramic fuse or what ever it is, and it should work, you are in effect bypassing the part in question.
If it still does not work then you are going to have to investigate further, or call some one in.
Plz rate my solution.
I had the same problem. At the back of the stove is a plastic cover with thermal overload written on it.
Switch off your power.Remove the cover, pull out the two luggs and connect the two luggs straight to each other. Make sure the oven knobbs are in the off position. turn on the power. If your oven clock etc. comes on the thermal overload is faulty and needs to be replaced. It is fixed to the stove by a screw from the inside of the oven, so open the door and remove screw to remove thermal overload at the back of oven. Take sample to electrical shop and replace. DO NOT USE OVEN WITHOUT THERMAL OVERLOAD.
hi there if your toc is at fault you will have no oven function at all ie. fan, light, and timer display. i would first check your timer is not set to auto and is also got the time set, failing that your thermostat may be at fault.
it sounds like the thermal cut out is broken can be replaced quiet easy need to disconnect oven from mains remove outer cover and has four wires two blue two white all with spade connectors can be bought from e spares on the web
It is not the control unit. Remove oven from housing, switch power off and remove either the top panel or the back of the oven
You will see two wires going to a thermal overload cut out, looks likse a round thermostat. Join the 2 wires togther bypassing the toc, it will now work okay