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Kenmore 70's dryer, not heating,

Kenmore 70's dryer, replaced heating element, thermal fuse and cord runs not heat. verified voltage and verified removal of lint in dryer. What else can it be thermostate?

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Maybe timer, try a different heat cycle.

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

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Dryer runs but their is no heat the element looks good could it be the limit switchsafmac3@yahoo.com


Use an ohm meter to verify the heating element has not failed. If you read infinity on the meter then you need a new element. This would be a good place to start. The alternative is to verify you are getting voltage to the element. Also be sure to check the thermal fuse if one is present.

Feb 19, 2011 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My kenmore series 500 dryer does not heat up


The closest model number reference I could find for what you have provided is "110.69522800". If this model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fK0809032-00003.png


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 14)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 1)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 34)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 40)
Thermal Fuse (Item 9)

If the dryer is running, but not heating, this is not always an indication of a blown heating element. If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a dryer that will not heat are:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out (replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO if found to be bad).

2. Bad Heating Element.

3. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

4. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. Please post back with your correct MODEL NUMBER if the number I have provided is incorrect. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 19, 2010 | Kenmore 500 6952 Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer is a Kenmore 70 Series Model # 110.64732400. Drum is rotating, but there is no heat


If the Thermal Fuse were blown, the dryer would not run at all. There is a difference between a THERMAL FUSE and a THERMAL CUT-OUT. Do not get the two confused.

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, you have a problem in the heating circuits. Any one of the following could be causing your problem:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO)
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Improper input line voltage
5. Defective power cord.

The following link gives some advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits are located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand. Just remove the back panel of the dryer for access.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed also have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need.
Some part numbers you may need:

Heating Element (279838)
TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit (279816)

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Mar 09, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore dryer model 96281100 runs but don't dry(no heat)


If the Thermal Fuse were blown, the dryer would not run at all. If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) so I can provide you with better service. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Feb 27, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore series 70 dryer will not heat up replaced heating element thermostats check ok with ohm meter


If heating element was replaced and still no heat, Then what I would do is test the voltage current in the wiring and see if there is actually power to the element.

All parts to make dryer heat are:
heating element
thermal fuse
thermostat
timer

any one of these units can be faulty


Oct 10, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore dryer not heating


The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. I would need a model number from you to be more accurate. All Kenmore dryers are not contructed the same. The Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Aug 03, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

No heat


Hi!

The issue you are facing is due to the thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse is the problem, the dryer wouldn’t run.

First of all verify the voltage for the dryer by using multi-meter to measure the voltage at the dryer outlet to make sure you have 240v because the dryer motor only needs 120v supplied by one of the lines to run. But the heating elements, on the other hand, need 240v supplied by both lines to get hot.

If the voltage is ok, then the most likely bad parts are given below. As always, you should use your meter and the tech sheet supplied with your dryer (hidden inside the control panel) to verify:

1. Even Heat Board

2. Heater Relay

3. Thermostat

4. Sensor

You need to check and replaced the bad parts to resolve the issue you are facing with.

Please do rate this solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

Jul 16, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer won't heat up


thermal fuse is bad. replace fuse. clean out vent duct. thermal fuse usually blows when there is restricted air flow over heating element.

Jun 24, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

My Kenmore electric dryer runs but no heat ....


Before I wish you luck i want you to review all of the possible reasons for your problem

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

May 29, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore 70 Series Dryer Model# 110.64742400


check the thermal fuse if it is blown also change the high limit thermal cut-off fuse www.repairclinic.com shows your parts. go there and enter model number. Also check the heat element. to get into it remove the lint filter and the two screws you'll see there then pry the top up at the front corners. And through the back you should find the heat element and blower housing and thermal fuse and high limit fuse and cycling thermostat.

Apr 06, 2009 | Kenmore 64742 Electric Dryer

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