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Freezer is accumilating frost on the back part inside freezer...have unplugged for a couple of days and it will work again for about a month and then temperature in refrigerator part will drop and icemaker will stop working

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  • vickihowell7 Feb 06, 2010

    The refrigerator part also does not work when the freezer goes out.....the freezer will not freeze but if something is placed at the very bottom of freezer(such as milk) this WILL freeze?

  • danny Hendrickson May 11, 2010

    either your adaptive defrost control and heater that defrosts the evaporator coils isn't operating properly,also a defective freezer door seal can let warm air in from outside and condense and freeze on the evap coil and limit its cooling ability

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You have a defrost problem,next time send model number,there's a timer or a board in the machine that turns a heater on when the timer tells it to and it defrosts the freezer and then the timer shuts the heater off,your machine is not doing this,you have either a bad timer or adaptive defrost board,a bad thermostat or a bad heater, also when it's running and when you open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing,if not you have a bad defrost fan motor,wait till it melts out,get it running and cold, open the freezer door and you'll hear the fan blowing,find the timer and turn the middle of it with a screw driver,this will advance the timer manually into defrost,turn it slowly until you hear a click and the fan shuts off,now you're in defrost,take the back wall off,if the heater is on you have a bad timer because you had to manually put it into defrost,if it's not on you have to check the thermostat,you can look at it and if you see a buldge in it you can tell it's bad,if it looks normal cut the wires and bypass the t stat, shut off the control to the freezer to kill the power to the t stat or unplug the machine all it is is one wire goes to the t stat and the other wire comes off the t stat and goes to the heater,just connect the wire dirrectly to the heater and turn the control back on, if the heater comes on the t stat is bad,if the heater doesn't come on take the wires off the heater and read the heater out with a meter,it's not a bad idea to change the t stat and the heater,reconnect the new t stat and wire in the heater and you should be fine

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

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1 Answer

Amana bottom freezer unit warms, then resets after being left unplugged


If the door does not shut correctly, humidity enters the unit and condenses inside. The defrost function is not designed to work properly under such a condition.

Ice (frost) builds up around the cooling coils, and actually insulates them, so you don't get good cooling. When you unplug the unit, the frost melts, runs into the bottom tray beneath the unit (can't see it).

When you turn it back on it cools like it should until the frost builds up again. You need a good gasket and a door that is adjusted properly. You also need the unit level at least side to side, but front to back also is preferable.

The unit has front leveling feet, and the back usually adjusts itself with self-leveling feet. The adjustments for the door are metal bars inside it, behind the inside storage panel.

The hinges are also adjustable. Sometimes the door sags from heavy things stored inside it. You must loosen the hinges a bit, lift the door and hold it while you tighten the hinges.

Sometimes the unit can be unsalvagable, because it's been situated incorrectly for so long that it's permanently bent out of square.

OR, the defroster clock might be bad.

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sounds like the defrost heater might be going out, you can order a new one at marcone.com with your model number, very easy to do. You will want to have the unit unplugged for a day or so before you do it, all frost should be gone before you start

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If you remove the entire back panel of the freezer section there is a evaporator (aluminum grill looks like a car radiator, contains r-134a, do not puncture or unit is ruined) Some frost on back freezer wall, means probably this entire grill is encased in frost, not allowing any air flow, which is how the entire refrigerator section is cooled, by air flow) The frost build up has to be removed,(got a hair dryer) you can unplug it for a couple of hours with the door open, overnight is better,this would fix the problem for a couple of weeks....Your automatic defrost is not working, there are three parts- the timer or control board, a heating element, and a bi-metal thermostat(often the problem)

You popped off the cover for the ice maker, you need to defrost the whole freezer section behind the back panel. Freezer cold means your compressor and freon are fine, you have a defrost problem with ice build up restricting air flow. A normal automatic defrost runs every 8 hours, three times a day, rule of thumb.....Sounds like you have a couple of weeks built up...........
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Open door let too much moisture into refrigerator. (The cooling coils, behind the back wall of the freezer compartment, are blocked with frost) If you unplug the refrig for a day or so it will work again, or you can take the back wall out from inside the freezer and melt the frost with a hair blower.

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If there is a lot of frost build up on the back wall of the freezer section you are having a defrost problem and the coils behind that wall are filling up with ice restricting air flow and letting fan blades hit it. If not a lot of frost the evap fan motor is going bad which is also located behind the freezer wall. Good luck.

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Most likely you have a defrost problem. When you unplug it for a couple of days, it thaws out and you plug it back in and it works until it freezes up again. Possible problem ...1 of 3...defrost timer...2 of 3...defrost heater...3 of 3...defrost bi-metal.

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