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Freezer is accumilating frost on the back part inside freezer...have unplugged for a couple of days and it will work again for about a month and then temperature in refrigerator part will drop and icemaker will stop working

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  • vickihowell7 Feb 06, 2010

    The refrigerator part also does not work when the freezer goes out.....the freezer will not freeze but if something is placed at the very bottom of freezer(such as milk) this WILL freeze?

  • danny Hendrickson May 11, 2010

    either your adaptive defrost control and heater that defrosts the evaporator coils isn't operating properly,also a defective freezer door seal can let warm air in from outside and condense and freeze on the evap coil and limit its cooling ability



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You have a defrost problem,next time send model number,there's a timer or a board in the machine that turns a heater on when the timer tells it to and it defrosts the freezer and then the timer shuts the heater off,your machine is not doing this,you have either a bad timer or adaptive defrost board,a bad thermostat or a bad heater, also when it's running and when you open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing,if not you have a bad defrost fan motor,wait till it melts out,get it running and cold, open the freezer door and you'll hear the fan blowing,find the timer and turn the middle of it with a screw driver,this will advance the timer manually into defrost,turn it slowly until you hear a click and the fan shuts off,now you're in defrost,take the back wall off,if the heater is on you have a bad timer because you had to manually put it into defrost,if it's not on you have to check the thermostat,you can look at it and if you see a buldge in it you can tell it's bad,if it looks normal cut the wires and bypass the t stat, shut off the control to the freezer to kill the power to the t stat or unplug the machine all it is is one wire goes to the t stat and the other wire comes off the t stat and goes to the heater,just connect the wire dirrectly to the heater and turn the control back on, if the heater comes on the t stat is bad,if the heater doesn't come on take the wires off the heater and read the heater out with a meter,it's not a bad idea to change the t stat and the heater,reconnect the new t stat and wire in the heater and you should be fine

Posted on Feb 06, 2010


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If the door does not shut correctly, humidity enters the unit and condenses inside. The defrost function is not designed to work properly under such a condition.

Ice (frost) builds up around the cooling coils, and actually insulates them, so you don't get good cooling. When you unplug the unit, the frost melts, runs into the bottom tray beneath the unit (can't see it).

When you turn it back on it cools like it should until the frost builds up again. You need a good gasket and a door that is adjusted properly. You also need the unit level at least side to side, but front to back also is preferable.

The unit has front leveling feet, and the back usually adjusts itself with self-leveling feet. The adjustments for the door are metal bars inside it, behind the inside storage panel.

The hinges are also adjustable. Sometimes the door sags from heavy things stored inside it. You must loosen the hinges a bit, lift the door and hold it while you tighten the hinges.

Sometimes the unit can be unsalvagable, because it's been situated incorrectly for so long that it's permanently bent out of square.

OR, the defroster clock might be bad.

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