Question about Kenmore 50522 / 50524 Side by Side Refrigerator

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Everything looks and sounds like it is working, seals are good but refrigerator and freezer will not get cold.

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  • tdfam2 Feb 06, 2010

    The compressor seems to be running(although sounds different). The evaporator and condenser fans are running. The evaporator coils and all copper piping are not cold. I tried to find defrost timer and I believe I found it. It looked like a defrost timer but only had 3 terminals with 3 wires hooked to it. It was located in the top left corner of the refrigerator compartment. There was continuity between the middle(third) wire and second wire but not first. This will be the third refrigerator failed in this house. I think we get too many power surges even though I have a whole house surge protector on my circuit breaker. We have to replace our compact fluorescent light bulbs Could it be a bad capacitor? I've had to replace one twice on my pool pump motor. How can I test capacitor?

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. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms. If the overload protector does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin Feb 06, 2010

    If the compressor is running, you should be able to feel a vibration, and the condenser coils near the compressor are room temp then there is a problem with the compressor or freon. A tech is needed to determine which and to fix leak, capture the freon and recharge the system.

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Hi, There are few Steps that you could Verify and narrow down the problem :- 1. Compressor - Make sure that the Compressor should be working. When you ON the refrigerator, you could hear a clicking sound from the Compressor.Compressor could be Hot but not enough to lay eggs on it. Note - In case, you find that the Compressor is Clicking and Shut Down the machine every now and then, more often that's an indication of Faulty Compressors. With most Brands, they do come up with 5 Years Warranty. 2. Make sure all the Fans are Working. I have seen many times, that the Fans are not working and the people are Inspecting other Components in the Refrigerator.They should also be running at Optimum Speed. 3. Do you see any Ice in the rear of the Freezer? More often - Frost. ( Not Crystal Clear ). If yes, take a Blower / Dryer and melt it. You would see a complete Difference. 4. Make sure that the Condensor Motor is working. If you could hear Condensor Fan is running, it always indicate that the Motor is Fine too. 5. How many times we never clean up the Evaporator Coils? We are using it for Years and we never clean it. So, if this is the Case, time to Take a Vacuum and clean the Evaporator Coils. 6. It could be a Defrost Problem. There are many Components but How could you make sure? The Best Way - Disconnect the Power Supply and Unplug the Cord. Take everything out of the Refrigerator. Keep the Doors Open for 24 hours. After 24 hours, plug in the Cord and then Turn ON the refrigerator.If you see that there is Some improvement, more likely you have faulty Defrost System. 7. On other Occasions, i have Found Overload Relay to be one of the reasons. I solved many Problems where the Customer Actually Test and Find that the Overload Relay is at Fault. Note - There could be Freon Leak or Gas Leak which i am not considering right now. You need to contact a Licensed Professional t check these. Hope the above information might have Helped you to Fix the Problem. Thanks a lot for taking your Valuable Time and Reading this. Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Feb 10, 2010

    Thanks for your response!!

    More often it is Relay.Do you hear any Buzzing noise when you ON the Refrigerator?

    If Yes, you could unplug the relay i believe its almond or beige in color shake it if it rattles the fuse in the inside has busted.it happens during lighting thunder or just a regular power surge.it burns to avoid damaging the compressor.

    Let me know, if needed further assistance.

    Hope i helped you.

    Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!


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