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Dryer continues over heating. I've replaced 2

Dryer continues over heating. I've replaced 2 elements at $27.00 a pop
does anyone have a wiring diagram or picture as to what color wire goes where in the timer unit that is actually helpful. Frigidaire Model # LCR3310DS0

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Posted on Feb 06, 2010


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My Kenmore electric dryer model 417.80412700 wont heat up but the element is still good. What else could be wrong?

Some dryers have a hi limit safety switch that is a one time fuse type switch . If the dryer gets too hot this switch opens and prevents the heating element from operating it is usually about 1/2" wide x 2" long plastic part with two wires attached to it.
You can test this part with a continuity tester. Unplug dryer, remove wires and test for continuity between the terminals. No continuity means the part needs to be replaced.
Hope this helps.

Jan 05, 2015 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Changed top thermostat 11060832990 and now pops breaker

Sounds like incorrect wiring, like you have a "hot" wire going to the chassis somewhere. I'd double/triple check the connections. If you only pulled off the 2 thermostat wires, and reconnected them directly back, then it's unlikely that's the problem, but if you disconnected the thermal fuse or other connectors along the way, it sounds like something is hooked back up wrong. Good luck!

Dec 04, 2013 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Model # 110.86820100 runs without heat, doesn't dry clothes

This is basically a Whirlpool dryer and they are notorius for having the thermal break fail. Disconnect dryer, remove back panel. The heating element is on the right side in a metal duct. On the left side of that duct is a small round disk with 2 red wires going to it. That is the non-resettable safety. Remove both wires and use an ohmeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, the thermal cut off and the thermostat at the bottom of the element MUST be replaced as a kit.
PN 279769
If thermal is good, check the heating element for continuity. Remove red wire from element and check across ELEMENT terminals. No continuity? Replace element pn 4391960
Both problems are generally caused by lack of air flow. Make sure that dryer has good air flow to outside after repair or you will get to do this again!Your part: 695563 Substitution: 279769 -->

Mar 03, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

How do i troubleshoot my kenmore model 110 electric dryer. it does not heat while it tumbles. How do I know for sure that it is the heating element.

ok first unplug dryer on the side of the heating element housing you will see the high limit switch black plastic with a sticker and a metal nose pull the 2 wires off check for continuity with ohm meter should be closed if it reads closed put wires back. Now look for a white ceramic rectangle piece it is a thermal fuse pull the wires and chech continuity if it shows closed it also is good. if either of these show open they need replaced. Now if both showed closed unplug wires from heating element check continuity should read continuity. if open element is broken. Now assuming this all shows good. Then it could be the timer or the centrifical switch on end of motor.

Jan 08, 2010 | Kenmore 84832 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer is not heating. Anyone know of an

There's no heat If your dryer doesn't heat, check these: Power from the house Heating element Thermal fuse Wiring Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected. Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Jan 01, 2010 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a Kenmoe dryer, model #110.62512101. it does not heat.

Check the following to address this issue.

1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Click here to be directed to the parts list and diagram page.

Sep 14, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer works properply but doesn't heat

Disconnect power . Remove the panel from rear of dryer . On the long aluminum housing , close to the top , will be a small thermostat piece . Either check this piece for continuity or jump those 2 wires togather and reconnect the power . Check to see if dryer heats . If heats , pt # 279816 is the part you need . Both parts in the kit , must be replaced . If the dryer does not heat , disconnect power , reconnect the wires and check the element with an ohm meter . The wires for the element , are the 2 wires at the bottom of the housing . If no continuity , pt # 279838 is the element number .

Sep 06, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Not heating

you have a dead short somewhere or someone monkeyed around the dryer to repair it

Jun 18, 2009 | Amana DLE330RAW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Half of the heating element has continuity, is it a goner?

The heating element is simply a single strand of resistive wire, so saying "half of it has continuity" makes no sense. If half of it only has continuity then that would mean this area in the middle you are calling half must be burned open and it would be bad. If you are accurately stating what you mean. I would set your meter you are using to do a voltage reading, check and see if you have your voltage at the 2 wires connecting to the heating element. If you have full voltage there and its not heating then your element needs to be replaced. If this dryer has a large plug going to the wall you will read roughly 240 volts AC, there. If it has a normal looking plug going to the wall (not likely) then you should be reading roughly 120 volts AC on those 2 wires connecting to the heating element. If it has a large plug going to the wall and you are only reading 120 volts or less on those 2 wires then your problem is somewhere else.

Mar 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Heating element continuity?

Unplug the dryer from the wall. There are 2 wires connecting power at the heating element. Take one of these wires off, doesn't matter which one, but take at least one of the 2 off. Then put your meter probes across the terminal of the heating element where you took the 1 wire off and the other terminal of the heating element that still has a wire on it. Your meter will pretty much read full continuity if good, no reading at all if bad. Also check from one of these terminals of the element with one meter probe going to the metal frame of the unit. You should get no reading. If you do the element is shorted and would have likely tripped your house breaker.

Better to test a heating element for voltage with your meter like I described to you in your other question. I've seen heating elements read good when just doing a continuity test, however once voltage is applied and they start to heat they can expand and open up, thus not work, even though testing good when doing just a continuity test. Not always, but sometimes, it does happen enough to note to you.

Mar 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

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