Is the 10/2 romex wire connected to a 30amp double breaker adequate for my Garland ED-15SF Deep Fryer. I also need a users manual. I brought this used and I need to know what to check to make sure it is working correctly.
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Let me explain how it works. Each 120V breaker has a black wire that leaves breaker box. The black wire is accompanied by a white neutral wire and a bare ground wire. These wires are sheathed in plastic, and altogether they make up a romex cable.
The cable leaves the circuit breaker box and travels to the first junction box. The junction box is a ceiling box that holds light or fan -or- a wall box containing switch or plug. As a general rule, the romex leaves the breaker box and travels all the
way to a junction box located right in the area where lights and plugs
are located. The romex does not stop at a junction boxes located in other room.
Inside the junction box, the romex splits and goes to the next junction box, and then to the next box, and the next.
So the plugs in one room are all connected together by a single romex cable that started back at the breaker box. And a single romex wire from the breaker box arrived at one of the junction boxes located in immediate vicinity of dead receptacle.
Here's what happened. A wire came loose somewhere between the breaker and the dead receptacles.
The loose wire is probably in a receptacle.
Here's what to do. 1) Breaker first: You can isolate the suspect breaker by identifying all other breakers. Then tighten screw on suspect breaker. Look for white wire and ground wire associated with the romex cable that connects to breaker >> tighten those screws on neutral busbar. Look for burning around suspect breaker. Is there a burning smell indicating breaker is bad?
2) Receptacles Next. Use ordinary tester. Test each receptacle. Receptacle has two rectangular prong holes and one round hole located below other two. The round hole is the ground. Breaker is turned on. Test each rectangular hole to ground. You have to test both prongs to ground.
The loose wire is right there in the vicinity of dead receptacles.
Test one receptacle and then move to next receptacle. At some point the tester will light up. Now click suspect circuit breaker to see if that receptacle is on breaker. Test receptacle with breaker off and breaker on. If that receptacle is on the suspect breaker, then a loose wire is inside that receptacle box >> or inside the next box. Many times, the wires are pushed into 'quick-connects' located on back of receptacle ... wires get loose ... you need a small screwdrive to release quick-connect, and then wrap wire around screw -or- replace receptacle
If none of receptacles show electricity, then loose wire is inside a switch box, or it is inside a ceiling box located in same general area. Check your switches first. Look for quick-connects, or signs of burning. Look for loose wire nut. Plug light into dead receptacle. Pull switch out with wires attaches. Power is on. Move switch around to see if dead receptacles shows electricity. Move to next switch. The loose wire is there somewhere.
Finally the ceiling box. Take down light and see if there is a loose wire inside. Look for signs of heat or burning.
If it is only the oven that is electric and not the entire stove, the required wire size is 10/3 with ground and a 30AMP circuit breaker. If it is the entire stove then you need 50AMP range cable and a 50AMP breaker. If your doing your microwave also, you need a 20AMP breaker and the wire you need is 12/2 with ground.. If the current breaker you were running was 30AMP I would keep that for your oven and run new wire for your microwave.
12 gauge wire sounds under sized for the application. And 20 amp 240 v breakers might be sufficient if you where wiring the heaters separately. But be sure that your wiring is not romex - because romex is an insulator and is not permitted in conduit. I would suggest that you up size your wire to 10 guage and your breaker to 30 amp as well. Then double check your heater wiring connections to insure that they're wired the same throughout.
When the issue starts have you actually checked the grease temperature? You can also checkto see if there is excessive grease build up on the themostat.Sometimes uncooked food particles can cause a boiling type motion in the fryer while they cook. be sure to do regular filterings of the grease,this will cut down on the suspended particles.If the grease temp is above 350, shut power off and check continuity on the thermostat,it could be sticking closed,in which case it will need to be replaced
your wiring is all wrong. for a 240 heater a 20/20 tandem breaker will not work with a 240 heater. you need a 20 amp two pole breaker. the two wires at the heater need to be connected to the line. you probably have two black wires at the heater. one connects to the white romex which should be taped black, and the other romex black connects to the other black wire. at the panel one white goes to one side of the breaker and the black to the other. the bare ground goes to the neutral bar.
You should determine how many amps the unit is pulling, you will need an ammeter to do this. Continuity through the internal circuit breaker does not determine the current being pulled by fryer only that it can pull current. If the fryer is pulling more than 50 amps the problem will be in the fryer, if it is less than 50 and the breaker trips you could have a faulty breaker.