Dryer shut off seems like its not getting power but i checked the terminals with tester and it is

Electric dryers have a heating coil over which air is drawn to heat it up. Unplug your dryer and use a continuity tester to check the heating coil for breaks. Attach one lead to one coil terminal and the other lead to the opposing terminal. No reading indicates a burned out coil (very common). All coils are replaceable.

It is code that every major appliance is to be on it's own circuit (breaker). I would have an appliance tech check the electric in the dryer for shorts. It's possible the terminal block got shorted. The best thing to do is buy a voltage tester, put it on the block and see if it beeps. If it does, the dryer is getting power and it's an internal problem. If not, then the problem lies between the breaker box and the dryer.

snivley57, the first thing that I would check is the door switch. If it is faulty, the dryer will not start. It is easy to locate. It is right behind the door in the form of a button or a magnet. The easiest way to test it is with a voltohm meter. or a simple continuity tester. If you trace the wires to the switch itself, you can find the two terminals of the switch. There needs to be continuity with those terminals or the switch needs to be replaced, and that is probably the whole problem. You can go to advance auto or lowes/home depot and get one of these testers very cheap.
That is the first thing I would check, and then go from there. I would be happy to help if you need further assistance. It's what I love to do.
thanks,
Mike W

Instructions
Instructions
Things You'll Need:

* Screwdrivers
* Multi-tester
* Needlenose pliers

1. As always, before working on your dryer, be sure to unplug it or turn off the circuit breaker that is supplying the power to it. Additionally, if your dryer uses gas, be sure to turn the gas feed off too.
2. Next, the door switch is located, you guessed it, on or around the door area. Open your dryer's door and you should see a small white prong sticking out. Inspect the switch and see if it is stuck in the closed position. If it reacts normally, like a spring-loaded button, then you are going to have to access the wiring.
3. Dryer door switches vary per manufacturer. Some can be popped out using a flat screwdriver, some have a set-screw holding it in place and others can only be accessed by opening up the dryer cabinet. Determine which kind you have.
4. Since popping out the switch or unscrewing it are self-explanatory, we will discuss how to get inside the dryer cabinet. First, you will have to determine your area of entry, which varies by manufacturer. Some dryers may have a lower front panel that can be unscrewed and removed or lifted up and off. Other dryers may offer access only from the rear of the machine. This will require the removal of quite a few screws. The last type of dryer entry would be from the front, where the drum is located. This panel actually supports the drum, so removing it is tricky and can prove to be difficult to work with and reinstall.
5. each of these cases, once you find the door switch, there will normally be two plastic compression wings securing to the machine. Use a flat screwdriver or putty knife to press one of the wings in so it can be popped out of the hole.
6. Now that the switch is exposed, inspect it for any arcs or scorch marks. Check the wires and the connectors to ensure that they are in good shape. If everything looks good, you can now test the switch.
7. Before testing the switch, remove the wires by using the needlenose pliers to pull them off the terminals. Be sure to avoid pulling on the actual wires themselves; only pull on the connector! Pulling on the wires can cause them to break or pull out of the connector. Make sure you know which wire goes to which terminal so you don't have a problem when you put everything back together.
8. With the switch free of its connections, set your multimeter to read continuity. This is the setting on the tester that reads ohms and it is usually marked either RX1 or X1. If your multimeter came with alligator clip accessories, it would help if you put them on the tester leads. If not, don't worry, you can still test the switch.
9. If you have the clips, clip one lead to each terminal on the switch. If you don't have the clips, just touch one probe to one terminal and the other probe to the other terminal. The tester should display a reading of infinity.
10. Keeping the probes touching the terminals, push in the switch (this is where having the clips comes in handy!). With the switch pushed in, your tester should display a reading of zero. Release the switch and it should return to infinity. If you do not get these readings or the tester reads infinity or zero at all times, then you will have to replace the door switch.

Check for correct voltage at the terminal block on the back of the dryer, where the power cord attaches to the dryer.You should be getting 220/240 volts, check by way of a voltage tester.
If the voltage is correct, then could be the motor capacitor or the motor itself, or start button?
Good Luck !

The thermal fuse is the most common problem with Whirlpool dryers not running.

Un-plug the dryer before you work on it.

The thermal fuse cuts the dryer off in the event it overheats. Obstructed or plugged venting can cause dryers to overheat. The thermal fuse protects the dryer against this condition. If your thermal fuse is bad you should check the vent. To check the thermal fuse, first unplug dryer and remove the back panel.

Once the back is off you should be able to see the thermal fuse. It is white and located in the bottom on the left hand side. Disconnect the two wires using your meter check to see if you have continuity across the two terminals, if not the fuse is bad and needs replacing.

Your local Sears parts outlet (if you have one) can get these parts for you, but there are also other appliance parts vendors on the internet.

With power disconnected, ans wired unhooked, connect an ohmmeter or continuity tester to the terminals. It should go from having continuity to being open as the switch is moved.

Hi, you'll need a ohm tester (multi-tester) you will have to remove / disconnect wires from hi-limit, in normal room temperature, place tester lead on terminals where you remove wires, if you get a beep/continuity, hi-limit is o/k, if no beep/continuity, hi-limit faulty, for further test you can heat up hi-limit, (oven) and check with tester, hi-limit switch off when temperature gets to high, and switch on when temperature drops, so at room temperature hi-limit should be on, (hear beep on tester), if there's no beep/continuity at room temperature, high-limit is faulty. disconnect power before doing any repairs, good luck.

First verify 220 volts of power at the terminal block where the cord attaches to the dryer. Also, look for a burned or loose wire at this location.
The power to the start switch comes from the door switch.
Check the door switch for continuity.
If no continuity, replace the door switch.

Check the junction connection behind the dryer where the power cord and terminal block to make sure that the screws are tight.  Then use a volt meter to check for voltage.  The 2 outside wires should be hot leads and the center is neutral.  Check hot to hot and you should get 240 volts.  Check hot to neutral and you should get 120 volts.  If you get those voltage readings, then you have a control board malfunction and needs to be replaced.  There is no reset switch within the dryer for the control board.