Question about Kitchen Ranges

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I have a whirlpool gold range model GJP84802. The bake element was replaced but I still wasn't getting heat like I should,only from the broil which glows red BTW. The new element has been tested and its good but the connecting wires don't move the tester at all. I bought a new thermostat but I don't want to use it unless I have to. It cost 118 dollars but I can return it if unopened. One last thing,before the bake element was replaced we saw a spark come from the oven when we were setting the cook time.

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  • dougiegeorge Feb 05, 2010

    Sorry,I thought it would be apparent it was an electric range.

  • dougiegeorge Feb 05, 2010

    On ohms the bake element sent the needle all the way to right.

  • dougiegeorge Feb 05, 2010

    The bake element tseted good again. Is there anything else I can do?

  • dougiegeorge Feb 06, 2010

    I separated the two wires from their extensions and tested for continuity..good.

    One went on to the broil element which I tested..good. I tested the extension wire from the broil element to the control board..good. I tested the extension wire from the bake element to the control board..also good. Four single wires plus the double wire from the broil element..all good.

    However when all wires are joined again the two wires that would join the bake element don't have continuity unless hooked up to the bake element.

    Does this mean the problem is with the control board?

    Can it be repaired or it a replacement the only way?

  • dougiegeorge Feb 06, 2010

    The bake element on my whirlpool gold electric range was replaced but still no heat. The element was tested for continuity and was good. All the wires involved with the bake element were tested,four single and the double to the broil element were tested..all good.
    However when all the wires are joined again the two leads to the bake element don't have continuity unless joined to the bake element.
    Does this mean the problem is with the control board?
    Can it be tested to make sure?
    Can it be repaired or is replacemnt the only way?

  • dougiegeorge Feb 06, 2010

    Thank you for your help.

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Hi.

I think you are right on the thermostat.

The temperature probe (PS404024 ) is used to sense temperature for both baking and broiling elements, therefore it is unlikely the problem.


The problem is likely either wiring harness to the bake element , or the oven control itself.

Before replacing this parts, double test the new baking element, by disconnecting its contacts, and reading Ohms on element contacts, to ensure that the circuit is not open (infinite Ohms). If the circuit is open, then the element is bad. Disconnect power before testing.

Wiring harness and ERC (control) are more difficult to test, as there is need to read voltages. For safety reasons operations with live power should only be performed by a technician.

Here all parts and diagrams for your range.

Regards.

Posted on Feb 05, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 05, 2010

    Hi.




    Re:"On ohms the bake element sent the needle all the way to right."


    If the arrow goes toward zero, and the multimeter is set on Ohms, then the element is good.


    You can test the temp probe in the same way, but if the oven is broiling, then the temp probe will be Ok.

    The problem is either wiring harness to the bake element , or the oven control itself.





    Regards.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 05, 2010

    Please read my last comment.




    The most likely is a broken wire on harness to element, but first there is need to test the control board, and this is done by a technician by reading volts at board contact.




    The wiring could also be tested reading continuity (must return zero Ohms), but that is often difficult because it is difficult to access the two end of the wire, as one is connecting to element after passing from temp probe, and the other to control board.




    The temp probe can also be tested reading ohms, but since this is the only thermostat, and the oven is broiling normally, I think that the temp probe will be Ok.




    Bye.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 06, 2010

    Hi.




    Yes, if you have tested everything else properly then you have a faulty control board. The final test will be reading volts at control board while operating, but the user must not do testing on hot wiring. Have also a look at the oven controls, test if they close circuit when bake is selected.




    Sorry about the negative rating. I have followed the problem for some times now, hope the final rating will be different.




    The question may also be passed to a different expert..




    Goodbye.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Feb 06, 2010

    You are welcome.

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  • Master
  • 3,741 Answers

Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! this can be the problem of gas valve. How a common gas valve works -click here. Gas range help: If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working.
click this link directly for more help
http://www.applianceaid.com/gas.html
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Posted on Feb 05, 2010

  • charlymonty Feb 05, 2010

    For electric range trouble shooting check out this as follows:-- electric oven will not heat: Things to check- The screw in fuses, they are usually the 30 amp fuses for the oven. Next is the clock assembly, often these clocks will have the words "push for manual" or "turn for manual", this will put the clock back into the normal operating mode rather than the automatic mode. Next, you may have to remove the power and check for any burnt wires. If all checks ok, you will have to test the selector switch and oven control.--Oven temp problems: Temperature is too low possible trouble makers, blown oven fuse, bake element is out, burnt wire, oven probe clips, oven temp control, oven temp sensor.--Temperature is too high in the oven possible trouble makers, oven temp control, oven relay ( if used ), oven probe clips, oven temp sensor, shorted wire.These oven probe clips often rust off and the oven temp probe hangs down, or touches the oven wall giving false temperature readings to the oven control.

    Checking a surface switch : Many infinite surface switches physically look different, but they operate almost all the same way.----Test with an ohm meter. . . .Unplug the range. Turn the switch to a high on position, you should be able to hear it "click" into the high position. Remove the wires from the infinite switch. Be certain you know how to replace the wires. Check across from L1 to H1, L2 to H2, and P to H1. If there is not continuity across all these points, the switch is defective. Sample internal picture here.

    Test with an voltmeter. . . . . Unplug the range. Remove access covers to get to the switch. Plug the range back in. With voltmeter set to read on the 240V scale, read across L1 & L2. ( no power there, check fuses or wiring ) There should be 240 volts present here. Turn the switch on to a high setting. Read voltage across H1 & H2. There should be 240V present here. If you don't read 240V here, replace the switch. Sample internal picture here.

    Element stays on high only:This is usually a contact inside the switch that has stuck together. Because this contact will not open, the element stays on high heat all the time = new switch time.-----Checking a range element :With the element removed from the range, check across the terminals of the element for continuity. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms, with an ohm meter. To see if the element is grounded, read between each side of the element terminals to the sheath of the element. If you read continuity, the element is grounded and should be replaced. -----Checking the terminal block of a range element: If you have checked the infinite switch and it is good, and the wires coming to the terminal block are good, and the surface element burner is good, then replace theterminal block. You can also read voltage in the terminal block with the switch turned on high. If the burner is good and you read 240V in the block, and the burner is not heating, replace the terminal block. Always check the ends of the surface elements when the receptacle terminal black is gone. Often the connection of the element and terminal block gets loose and burns the terminal block and the ends of the element.

    Click this link directly for more help

    http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.ht...

    This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

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