Question about Poulan Wild Thing 2375 18" Gas Chain Saw 2.5 Cuin

1 Answer

Bar is not getting lubed. I have thinned the bar oil with coal oil. The syphon tube is in place.

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Oil System Plugged.

  1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
  2. Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear. Please see the IPL to aid in oiler component identification.

Example IPL Poulan 2375LE Gas Saw Type 2 (may not be your saw)
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/PWE/2375LE-Gas-Saw-Type-2/75.2375LE-Gas-Saw-Type-2.1.59.1.html
Oiler components are on the "Handle, Chassis & Bar Assembly" print.

It has an outboarb clutch if necessary use this as a guide for removal. I think you need the special tool (Google Search):
R² Drive Link Outboard Clutch by Drivelink.blogspot.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
  1. Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
  2. There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make sure the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
  3. Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
If the example is not your saw it can be found here:
Poulan.com
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/POULAN-WEED-EATER/75.59.html
The dash number of your serial number is the type.

If You have more questions or need more help reply below and I will get back to you. HTH
Lou

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

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Remove the bar and chain. Clean the oil port in the engine side where the bar fits to. Start the engine and look for oil oozing out of the port. If ok, clean the bar drive-end oil passages that run from each large hole out to the chain groove on each side. Clean the entire chain groove, then reassemble the bar and chain. Tighten the chain until it pulls up to the lower bar edge, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Recheck tension again after tightening the bar cover nut(s). Start the engine and run at speed for several moments with the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Hope this helps!

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