I'm having a problem with the pedals spinning feely without the wheel turning after i coast or have stopped pedaling for a few seconds. i had the bottom bracket replaced a week ago but don't know if its related.
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Re: pedals spin wheel doesn't turn
Bottom brackets just connect the cranks to the bike and keep the drivetrain aligned while you wail on the pedals.
I assume you mean the rear wheel spins freely when you pedal after a coast or stop. That would be the pawls in the rear cassette, freewheel or axle failing to engage. When you coast, the whirring, clicking sound you would hear is the pawls gliding over the detents. When you apply forward torque, they drop into the detents and provide drive. Like a ratchet.
Have a shop look at it. Don't ride the bike if it's going to do that. You may stand up and stomp on the pedals and have it let go and wake up with a broken jaw because you went over the handlebars, if you survive being run over. The rear wheel and drive components are not beginner bike mechanics.
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If the wheels spin free then I would look at the bottom bracket. All of the force you use for pedaling relies on the bearings in the bottom bracket being good. Are the pedals hard to turn by hand? Do the pedals themselves spin freely? If the wheels turn, this really only leaves these two rotating points as possible suspects.
The bottom bracket on a bicycle connects the cranks (arms that the pedals are connected to) to the bicycle and allows the cranks to rotate freely. It looks like this is worn out or broken. Any bike repair shop will replace it. Shouldn't cost much.
see this steps and fix it. God bless you Clutch Cable Replacement
The clutch cable provides a means to "break the drive" between
the engine and the wheels. The engine spins constantly, but the wheels
do not, so in order to stop a car's wheels without turning off the
engine, the wheels have to disconnect from the engine. When the clutch
pedal is pressed, the cable disengages the plates, allowing the driver
to shift gears or coast without killing the engine.
A failing clutch cable may make the clutch pedal difficult to
depress. If the clutch cable fails, the clutch pedal may remain on the
floor and not return to its normal position.
To replace the clutch cable, disconnect it from the clutch pedal
(usually inside the vehicle) and from the release mechanism or cable
attachment that operates the clutch assembly (usually at the
transmission beneath the vehicle). A new clutch cable is then installed
and adjusted. (The specifics vary according to the vehicle and range
from straightforward to very difficult.)
Being a mechanical problem that we can't see you will need to define it better to us or yourself.
I'm sure if you looked at it closer you would see that the pedal itself is supposed to spin freely while it turns on the crank which turns the chainring which transfers motion through the chain to the gear(s) on the right side of the rear wheel which drive the wheel forward.
Now, where do you think the breakdown really is?
Any search engine would then offer definitions and solutions to a well-crafted query like "bicycle chain slipping" or "bicycle gear slipping".
The pulsing is usually caused by a warped rotor. Rotors warp from quick stops and rapid braking techniques. It could also possibly be a weakening Master cylinder or a leaky diaphragm in the brake boost, but this last would be accompanied by a hissing sound when you hit the brakes. To check the rotors, block the rear wheels and raise the front until the wheels are off the ground. Spin the wheels individually by hand slowly - they should roll smoothly. If they do , have a helper apply very light pressure to the brake pedal with the engine running and again spin the wheel. With the wheel spinning, have the helper apply increasingly more pressure to the brake pedal until it stops the wheel from turning. Now have them back off the pedal slightly so you can spin the wheel again and spin, looking for uneven rolling. Check both front wheels to show which rotor is warped. If either is warped, you'll need to have the rotors resurfaced ( turned) and replace the pads both sides. If they turn smoothly through all of the tests, apply solid pressure to the brake pedal until you can't push it any farther and hold that pressure. Watch the pedal for sinking. If it sinks, then you either have air in the system or a bad Master cylinder. Bleed the brakes first before you replace the master and do the pressure test again. If you don't find anything at this point, start the engine and do the brake pressure test again. If the pedal sinks, then you may have a vacuum leak in the booster and will need to do a vacuum test on the booster to make sure, since that job is usually hard to do and may be costly, depending on the style of booster you have. Hope this helps!!
you need a new coaster in the back rim. theres little gears inside that grab when you pedal forward and not backward. you stripped/broke the gears inside. take the back wheel off and if the sproket/cog spins both ways then you need to have it replaced.
Both wheels should spin in 2nd gear. Only one wheel may spin in 1st, but if you put a little pressure on the one wheel that spins it should make the other wheel start spinning.
But both wheels should spin in high gear at the same time.
Hope this helps. If there is more help you can also ask these guys at this website. http://www.shopjandl.com/ I get my parts from them and they seem to also work on them as well