The motor inside the air handler is making noise we shut it off my husband spray some w lubricant and works and after awhile starts making noise again

Likely have a bad motor module. Fans do commonly sound a little different when starting but not when staging or when shutting off

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I'm assuming you have an air handler that is inside. Turn the power off and make sure there is nothing that the fan is hitting. If not the bearings are probably bad. These motors are sealed and cannot be lubricated. You will need to replace the fan motor.

The blower motor probably needs very badly to be cleaned, lubricated, or replaced, Michael.

If this unit is belt driven, the belt may be worn or slightly loose.

Sounds as though the fan has come lose . or the motor has come lose. either way start looking for a fan and perhaps a motor

Hi, here is the theory on the reset button on Air Conditioners. They reset via the breaker panel box in your house. Check that first before anything else. However if your unit is popping breakers, it is because the rating for the breaker is incorrect, or there is something that needs servicing usually in the outside unit called the condenser. That piece contains the compressor. A faulty compressor and pop the breaker. Or If the condenser fan that blows over the coils of the outside unit stops (common failure) The compressor will overheat and shut down. That may not trip the breaker but the house will get hot anyway. Usual action for this is to replace the condenser fan motor and starting capacitor. Make sure the speed rating and directional rotation for the replacement motor is the same as the motor removed.
There are other reasons why the system won't come one fully. If the wall thermostat is digital and does nothing. including turning on the fan. There will be a small fuse located on the circuit board of the air handler (part of Air Conditioner mounted inside the house. It houses the circulation fan). That fuse could be blown. That one shuts down just about everything.
On air handlers mounted up into the attic crawl space there is an overflow pan. This pan is mounted directly below the air handler. This pan can fill with water when the drain pain contained inside the air handler starts to overflow because the drain system to that is clogged.
There is a "float switch" mounted in the overflow pan wired to the system in such as way as to shut down the entire AC system if that pan fills.
The handling is to clear the obstruction in the Drip Pan inside the air handler. Then remove enough water from the overflow pan and the AC will run as though nothing has happened.
If you have more questions, write to me on this site.
One thing more. The capacitor alone in the Outside condenser unit can fail and that will stop the condenser completely if it is of a "split" design and used for both the compressor and fan. When replacing this unit alone, ALWAYS find the same specification part.
I hope this helps,
Have a Happy New Year,
Mark

Have you lubricated the the running deck? The lack of lubrication can increase friction thus causing the current over load circuit to activate thus shutting down the unit to prevent further damage, Go to your local hard ware store and purchase silicone spray. Apply Lubricant by lift one side of the running belt spray contents length wise starting at motor shroud to the back end repeat this process on the other side. If this unit shut down again then you will have replace the running belt and possibly the deck.

Shut unit off, remove door that would have the blower
located in it. Make sure that the blower motor has not seized up. Try to spin it with your hand.

If the unit starts up ,fires up and shuts down all the time, more than likely the blower motor is the problem

Hi, It sounds to me that this split system you have is a heat-pump and not a gas fire air handler. The noise that you are hearing must be the freon in the copper lines equalizing in the system upon shut down of the compressor. All systems must and will go through this sequence. It shouldn't be that loud though. The copper lines should have armor flex on at least the larger suction line for insulation and to keep it from condensating everywhere in the summer in the cooling mode.If you find it is bare with nothing on it, you can buy this insulated tubing at Home Depot or O.S.Hardware. Its black in color and is split down the entire 10' section with glue covered seams on it. This should cut down the noise. Depending on the unit size Tonnage wise, the suction line may be 3/4" or 5/8" in diameter.Just ask for there water line insulation and like I said it comes in 10' sections and is very cheap, 20cents a foot or so. Please keep me posted if this does not take care of the problem. It may be coming from the lines where they enter the air handler. I will wait for you're reply.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

sounds like fan motor is going bad - replace