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Re: Whirlpool side by side refridgerator doors rusting
Sounds like an older refrig, we call that "refrigerator cancer", its rusting from the inside out. your inner insultion has become saturated w/ moisture and is just rusting away now, you can try covering witha rustolem might buy you some time only other way is to replace entire door and thats a few hundred dollars
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How can I put this nicely. TAKE IT BACK!!!!!! First moisture is forming where it shouldn't, air leak/door gasket not sealing, and second stainless doesn't rust. If rust is forming than it's of poor quality. More iron in it than steel. Isn't there atleast a one year warranty? Don't wait! Till it's too late. Complain NOW!!!
Go to www.applianceart.com -- These guys specialize in refacing your appliances. Their motto is Don't replace your existing working appliances -- Reface them. They offer magnetic and vinyl options that will fit over the existing surface. I believe the vinyl option will work best for you. They have solid colors, designs, textures and even stainless steel options. Worth checking out.
there is a magnetic vinyl covered seal glued all around the door frame to seal the refridgerator from escaping cold. If this seal has come loose, it will adhear to the door frame a little after opening and then be pulled back and make a slapping sound. Check this seal to be sure it is not torn loose.
oowwwww!!! thats what we call in the refrig biz "refrig cancer" the door itself is actually rusting from the inside out. the older refrigs used fiberglass insulation inside the doors which has a tendency to hold moisture, and overthe years rusts through. the new door use blown-in poly styrene foam far less likey to hold moisture. That being said you could remove the door lightly sand and paint, can of krylon enamal aint should do it, at least for a little while anyway
You may end up respraying the door, but here goes.-
First mechanically remove as much of the rust as you can with an old screwdriver or similar scraper. Then use coarse emery cloth - 80 -120 grit untill all you're left with is shiny metal with rust pits.
You may need to go out further than you think - about 1" all round.
Then use a paint- on de-rusting fluid from vehicle products supplier. When all rust is black or dissapeared, use a zinc primer on all the bare metal. (this will stop it reacuring)
Then either spray the area with an "appliance white" aerosol or squirt it into the cap, and use a paintbrush.
If you are spraying it, open all house windows and doors, cut a mask from newspaper- then tape it to the fridge. Use blankets , plastic dustsheet or old sheets to protect things, and spray it from 12" in several very light coats.
When done, "polish" with T cut - which should remove the rust stain too.
Seal the area of the original leak with a white or clear silicone - and sort the original leak out.
If you polish the plastic with a silicone spray, water will tend to stay put rather than seep.
The entire handle slides upward and out to detach from the door. There are two screws attached to the handle which can be tightened once the handle is off. Those screw heads are what reattach the handle to the door by sliding them through the door bracket opening, where they follow a short channel down leaving the handle secured again.
First pull out the ice bucket and close the door. Set for cubed ice. Press the button for ice to come out and listen for a loud clunk noise. That is the sound of the solenoid. You can open the door, hold the light switch and press the button and watch for the solenoid moving up and down. Solenoid is at the back of the freezer in a little square opening where the rod on the ice bucket goes into. If that solenoid is moving ok then put the bucket back in while the solenoid is in the down position and cubes should work. If solenoid is not working then it will need to be replaced. Let me know what you find.