I have a white wire - approx. 5' with no home that I can see
I have a white wire - approx. 5'' - hanging from the engine housing behind the choke and near the carburetor. The bitter end is not attached to anything. There is what looks like a **** connector on the end of the wire. I cannot figure out where it goes. I think I knocked it loose while cleaning the generator.
As I look forward from the pull string (aft end) to the forward end (electrical outlets) this wire coming out of the engine on the port side just forward of the shield separating the choke lever from the carburetor.
This 11 hp engine briggs and strattin 256412-1153-e1 pull start engine is powering a homelite lr5500 pull start generator
Re: I have a white wire - approx. 5' with no home that I...
You and I have the exact same problem on the same exact gen set. I believe it connect to the red on off switch, right side front. I will investigate on mine as it is hanging loose as well and wont start. Also, anyone know which model starter will fit these engines?
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Hello, is it the external shift handle you want to replace?
Then you'll have to remove the engine block from the driveshaft housing.
To do so: Drain the engine oil.
Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburettor.
Disconnect the start-in-gear cable from the recoil starter housing.
Disconnect the fuel lead at the fuel connector
Disconnect the choke puller at the carburettor.
Disconnect the white and black wire from the stop button at the engine-block and engine wires.
Remove 6 bolts holding the engine-block to the driveshaft housing.
Lift the engineblock.
The shift lever is fixed with a M6 bolt in the front-top of the driveshaft housing. You'll need a new gasket, Part Num 803508-9
Remove carb float bowl. Clean bowl. Observe float bowl screw, look for hole thru bolt, if present use thin wire to clean out. Float should be hanging freely and gas should be flowing, raise float gas should stop. Pinch off gas line or use shut off valve. Remove pin from float, remove float and needle meter. Use thin wire to clean out passage were meter needle is inserted, wire should pass thru to behind choke. Replace float & meter needle. Replace float bowl. Pull rope half way several times. Inspect primer bulb for cracks or leak. Try to start, may take 5 or more pulls to prime.
Sounds as if your choke is hanging up, or not opening at all. With the engine warm remove the air cleaner, there is a butterfly valve right inside the top of the carburetor If this is closed or mostly closed your choke needs to be adjusted. There are manual and electric chokes, yours should be an electric choke. First with engine cold and the key turned to on check for voltage at the choke wires. If you have voltage, then you might just need to adjust your choke. Electric chokes heat up an element inside the choke to tighten a spring and open the choke butterfly valve at the top of the carburetor. There should be between 4 and 5 screws that hold a ring around the choke housing on the side of the carburetor with the wires going to it. While holding the round choke housing in place loosen all of the screws on the retaining ring. If you can feel the choke housing wanting to spin turn it the opposite way that it wants to turn. Do this in stages until your choke butterfly valve is open with the key turned on, or the engine warm. Hope this helps if you have more questions just ask.
Be careful here. New choke wires are expensive! spray white lithium grease into the choke assemply up at the handle, then follow the cable down to the engine, extend the choke cable inside the outer cable housing and try to get it lubricated white WD-40 or white lith gease. spary everything at the chole area with WD-40 OUTSIDE only - operate the choke manually and carefully a few times and git mowin!
chokes are usually found on the carburetor body, just behind the air cleaner housing. Some engines don't have chokes though, particularly pressure washers (since not typically used in cold weather). They will have a prime bulb instead.
It sounds like you need to inspect the wiring harness and look for broken wires and any wires that are hanging they may not be connected, the black exhaust is caused by a choke plate that is not opening on the carb the electric choke is not getting any voltage through the wire or the choke plate is out of adjustment it should be wide open after 5 minutes of running, check the fuses to be sure there is no blown fuses and check the wire that goes to the carb. to ensure it has 12 volts.
My experience has been for this configuration, is that the red wire is your +5 volts, the green is right, the white is left, and the black is the ground for the supply and both speaker grounds. Hope this helps...accordianman