Ok so i have an alpine mrv-f345 connected to my for speakers @ 4ohms...so i'm suppose to getting 75rms to each channel. First of all the sound output dosen't sound like 75rms at all,pretty low but music is clear, guess thats always ah +. Anyway my problem is the amp cuts off when i turn the volume up without warning its jus shuts out completely without warning....no of that vlt or cur displays + i have evrything connected right. The amp is PROPERLY GROUNDED. O yeah my dashboard lights sought of be dimming mabey this helps to figure out problem.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The "CUR" display means that the amp is drawing excessive current and the protection circuit is activating. Too low impedance or shorted speakers will cause the amp to draw excessive current.
The Alpine V12 is a Class D mono amp with only one set of speaker outputs. All versions, M301, M501, and M1001 are only stable to 2ohms. Assuming that all 6 of your connected subwoofers and speakers are 4ohm and they're all connected in parallel, the amp sees a .67 ohm load, far below it's rated impedance.
When brand new, the amp could probably operate at low to moderate volume levels without drawing excessive current. But as electronic components age, their tolerances change and they become less able to withstand excessive current or mismatched impedances.
I'd get a 4-channel amp and drive the 4" speakers off the front channels and the 6X9's off the rear channels. And just power the subs off the V12 making sure that they are connected to show a minimum load of 2ohms.
Doubtful sir, your problem mostly enlies in the fact that the Alpine amplifiers are stable at 2, 4, and 8 ohm loads more than likely you have it wired at something under a 2 ohm load. This makes your amplifier do many things including not work properly. A properly wired amplifier should stay cool, and never shut down. Go to www.the12volt.com and veiw their subwoofer wiring diagram section. choose your subwoofer impedence and how many as well as how many voice coils. enter that into the drop down menus and you will be presented with all your wiring options then wire accordingly
disconnect all of the speaker wires at the amp and turn your system on -if the amp stays on then you likely have a roasted coil in one of your speakers somewhere and causing a short which is shutting your amp down into protection mode-if the amp wont stay on with nothing connected to it then you have probably roasted something inside the amp and uhhh good luck bro
This is an indication of a voltage error, I have seen this when the voltage regulator or the car battery is begining to have a problem supplying enough current to the amplifier. Check the voltage levels with the amp turned off and then turn on the amplifier, if the voltage drops this means that there is poor voltage regulation and this may mean that you will have to replace the car's voltage regulator.
you trouble shoot the problem by opening unit and force-powering fans to test for overheating during "being used loud for a few minutes". Read the fans' label for proper voltage to apply and proper polarity. I am guessing the fans will run on car battery voltage of 12 volts. Also, attempt to close up the unit to simulate real conditions.
There should not be fuses for the fans. If unit is now cooling, then look for faulty thermistor, which turns the fan on during rising temperature. Once thermistor is located, a fast test is to "jumper" its two wires to simulate turn on.