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At the end of the scrubber cycle, I get an F2 code and have to trip the breaker off and on to get it re-started. It then runs normal to the end of the washing cycles.

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F2 means that the rotor (PN 525884P) is sensed to not be turning, It could be a small piece of food debris, a tiny fragment of a shell or broken glass, has gotten lodged in the wash impeller, or it could be a seized bearing. The buzzing sound is most likely a burr on the lower portion of the wash rotor.

Remove the rack, then the filter plate (the large silver plate with all the holes in it), and then the wash impeller (the blue finned "fan" in the middle). While looking at the lower rotor, be sure that its fins are crisp and sharp with no flashing or burrs.

Remove burrs with a razor blade. Does the fan spin freely? If not, try a few drops of lubricating oil on the bearings while working the rotor back and forth trying to free it up. Is there anything in the cup that would prevent the rotor from turning? (fragment of glass, shell, etc)..

Posted on Feb 05, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How do i fix hoover vision hd washing machine that blew a house fuse then machine comes on will not start cycle ***


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!




May 17, 2015 | Hoover Washing Machines

1 Answer

Hi my fisher and paykel MW512 top loader washing machine keeps throwing my electrical switch. A few months ago it wouldnt drain and came up with heaps of error codes and now it is tripping my switch. What...


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.

You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.

Mar 25, 2015 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

1 Answer

What makes the condenser fan shut off but the compressor keeps running but not every time


Condenser fans cycle on and off to control the temperature/pressure of the refrigerant in the condenser. This is normal operation.

As to cooler weather start up and tripping the breaker; how cold is it when you are running it? If it is too cold you could be pumping liquid refrigerant back to the compressor, slugging it and causing it to trip a breaker. However, many things can cause an air conditioner to over-amp and trip a breaker but this tends to be more problematic as the weather is hotter.

Feb 20, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Dishwasher trips out after running for a while


When you say "trips out" do you mean the circuit breaker trips? If so the breaker in the electrical box may be bad. Also do you have anything on that circuit pulling high amps when the dishwasher is running? Also when does it "trip out" during a pump cycle or when the heating element cycle starts?
If the pump does not work at all then the pump may have went out. If it happens when the heating element cycle starts then it may be the circuit is overloading or the breaker is bad.

Oct 14, 2014 | Smeg Dishwashers

1 Answer

Circuit breaker trips after water supply cycle


check the condensor fan in the compressor area and make sure its running if not the compressor will overheat causing high head pressures on the compressor causing it to draw too much current to operate the compressor and kick the breaker out,also make sure the condenser coils there are clean and it has ample air movement away from the wall

Apr 21, 2013 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

Moffat washer (mcch6110hww GE?) trips breaker shortly after start of cycle. Can this be repaired?


Sounds like your drum brake is engaging. Fixing it is fairly cheap. YouTube it and watch a few videos on how to do it if your fairly handy.

Feb 01, 2013 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

When #9 program for Bagels is running , the temp drops 130 degrees before cycle is complete. also having to reset breaker several times


It's normal for the oven to drop temperature during the first 4 minutes of a bagel cycle, although the temperature should recover to 525 before the end of the bake. If your breaker keeps tripping you could have a blown heating element and should call your local authorized service provider, I wouldn't recommend attempting to repair this one on your own.

Sep 28, 2010 | Baxter OV300E Stainless Steel Electric...

2 Answers

Why does my washing machine trip the electric


run the machine, after it trips, unplug and carefully touch the motor,it may have a bad capacitor, or dry bearings causing it to draw excessive current,if these 2 things are not it, then look for a bare wire that may be touching case during this part of the cycle,and if you can get an "Amprobe" it reads current and check machines current draw during the start to trip current

Oct 27, 2009 | Hotpoint WMA58 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Dryer started up as normal, but, midway through cycle, it stopped running. Timer was still going, but dryer is not spinning.


Can you hear the motor turning? If yes, it probably has a broken belt that drives the drum. If no, check the house electrical power panel to reset the dryer breaker(maybe, only one of the breaker pair tripped). If breaker trips again, you have an electrical short in the dryer cabinet somewhere, usually in the heating element in back of the drum. Good luck!

Jul 09, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Tripping the breaker


How far into the cycle does it trip the breaker?Does the motor run then trip it?Is it at the end of the cycle when it goes to a dry cycle?Does it trip in the beginning when it fill's up with water?

Mar 19, 2009 | Dishwashers

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