Question about Maytag 15 cu. ft. / 425 liter Upright Freezer MQU1556A

2 Answers

Running but does not get cold enough

Water leaking from door. Temperature inside 40 degrees. Lots of ice build-up inside back just under freezer coil cover. Defrosted unit, removed cover and drain open. Re-assembled and started unit. Twenty-four hours later only down to 40 degrees with control set at 4. No unusual sounds, all seems normal except not cooling and the ice build up in spite of clear drain. Auto defrost stuck on? Help! THANX.

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  • clairenevan Feb 20, 2008

    Solid ice from bottom of coil cover on down and covering bottom of freezer. Heard no fan running. Freezer compressor running. No heavy frost accumulation anywhere in freezer. Unit six or seven years old.

  • clairenevan Feb 20, 2008

    Coils are in the sides of the freezer and yes, are warm to the touch when freezer is running.

  • clairenevan Feb 21, 2008

    In looking around the compressor I found a copper tube badly corroded at a reducer junction making me think there is a freon leak. In answer to your question the copper tube you mention is room temperature. You have been most helpful in getting me to look more closely at my problem. Would you agree that low freon could be the problem?

  • robert samples May 11, 2010

    was it ice or heavy frost built up and if it was ice where was it and is the fan running if the auto defrost was stuck on you wouldnt have ice because when it defrost it shuts down the compressor and how old is it

  • Anonymous Mar 13, 2014

    Power out 48 hrs. On 24 hrs. Out again 6 hours. I removed everything from the freezor except ice cream and did not unplug it. The ice cream is soft. There is a red lite, duration 2 hrs. blinking; and I can't get it set for this to go off. Can you walk me through getting it reset to normal freezing setting.

  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

    freezer not working

  • Anonymous Apr 01, 2014

    reset freezer

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My upright freezer is freezing the top half but strangly an icecream is soft the bottom half is just cool

Posted on Aug 08, 2008

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Feel the sides or the coils on back if it has any see if they are hot or cold

Posted on Feb 20, 2008

  • robert samples Feb 20, 2008

    well they should be hot not warm it sounds to me like you have a partial restiction a partial restiction is something a peice of trash is blocking the line and letting freon pile up in the evaprater hence the ice if it had a defrost promblem then you would have frost there not ice now get to the back of the unit and find the filter drier it will look like a copper tube with a tiny copper line comming in the bottom of it and a 1/4 inch line in the top feel it see if its ice cold thats a sure sign of a restriction then let me know

  • robert samples Feb 21, 2008

    its possable either way its a seald system promblem

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Why does my ice maker not get cold enough to produce ice? I have a Samsung RFG297HDRS French Door refrigerator. Everything is functioning except for the ice maker. Water is getting into the ice maker


Ok Randy, Lets fix it.

My name is Peter. I am a retired refrigeration field service technician.

You are not getting cooling air to your ice maker freezer compartment. Once again Samsung - bad design - put a ice maker in the fresh food section.

So, you have a ice maker enclosed next to the fresh food section where the recommended temperature setting is 35-40 degrees F.
Where as your recommended freezer temperature is +2/-2 degrees F.

There is a air damper/vent from the bottom freezer in the back of your ice maker housing. Lets remove the ice maker to check for ice build up. On the left hand side of the housing on the wall there is a long narrow cover plate. This is where you connector harness is located. There are 2 screws holding the front end in and a tong and groove tab in the back. Remove the cover plate.

Now, pull the harness out.

Lets remove the ice maker assembly. There are two screws in the front end securing the ice maker to the top of the casing. These screws are recessed. They are either Philips heads or hex heads (1/4"). If they are hex head, he recessed hole diameter is small. Some hex head hand tools will not fit. A screw gun will work or a small outside out side diameter hex head hand tool.

Remove these screws. In the back in each corner is a tong & groove. Pull forward to release the ice maker. Using a small flat head screw driver wedge the wire harness to release. Set the ice maker aside.

Inspect the air vent/damper for ice build up. Use a hair dryer to defrost.

I do not believe you have a automatic damper controlled by a thermistor (temperature sensor). If you do, Remove the damper assembly. Get your multi-meter. Set your meter to the lowest Ohm reading (Omega on your meter) Touch the two probes on your meter together, you meter should read 1.0. Disconnect the 2 motor contacts. On the motor place one probe on one contact and one probe on the other contact. If the meter still reads 1.0 the motor is bad. If the meter reads 0-50 Ohms the motor is good.

If there is no ice buildup & the damper motor checks out, replace the temperature sensor.

You will find getting the wiring back into the side panel will be a little difficult. As usual, Samsung is not service friendly.



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It appears that your auto defrosting system (if you have one) is not working. So your evaporator coil is frozen up - all that ice serves as an insulator and not enough cold air is getting down into frig section. Until you replace either the freezer defrost element or the defrost timer all you need to do is unplug for a few hours till it fully defrosts then plug back in - will work fine for a few days at normal internal temps till the ice builds up again.

If your timer and defrost element are both working properly, THEN, you might want to check if you have enough refrigerant in the system - you may have a leak.

Mar 31, 2014 | Avanti FFBM921PS 9.2 cu. ft. Bottom...

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Does not get cold enough


If refrigerant charge is ok, make sure that the evaporator coil is not covered with ice. The latter serves as an insulator and will keep unit from achieving designed low temps. Remove ice by defrosting unit manually and then restarting unit. If ice continues to build up at alarming rate check for the tightness of door gaskets. If lots of moisture gets into unit, it will collect and freeze on coil. Also check to see that the defrost timer is not going on excessively. Those defrost cycles can raise internal temps by as much as 25 degrees; if the cycles come on prematurely and/or very often internal temps will be high.

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MY FREEZE WILL NOT GET COLD OR FREEZE ANYTHING


Hello,
Check the temperature setting
Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the freezer or freezer
Check for air flow restrictions in vents
Test the temperature control
Clean the condensor coils
Check the door seals
Test the door switch
Test defrost heater
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Check that the freezer is level
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Clean the condensor coils
Check the outlet voltage
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With all this it helps to solve the problem....

May 04, 2011 | Kenmore 14.1 cu. ft. / 399 liter Upright...

1 Answer

I have a true 2 door freezer with bun rack rails...it is runninig between 7 degrees up to 59 degrees...we vacumed the vents...do we need more coolant or what do you think...it is about 4 years old and...


Vacuuming the coil is not usually sufficient to clean them properly. Hold a flashlight behind the radiator on top of the freezer to see if you can see freely through the coils. If not, the best way to clean the coil is to spray coil cleaner on there and flush with plenty of water. It is a mess but it will get the grease off the coild. If you do not have gauges to check the pressures of the refrigerant (lets call it freon), you can get a good guess by doing the following: Get a ladder, climb up so you can see in the top of the cabinet where the compressor is located. It looks kind of like a bowling ball. There will be one small copper line and one large copper line running from the compressor. The small line is the high pressure line. It should be hot enough to burn your finger. It then goes through a small pan where it evaporates excess water, then to a "radiator" which has a fan running behind it. If the machine is running this fan should be on. The small line then runs into the freezer box. At this point the line should be warm, not hot to the touch. If this is not happening you are probably low on freon. The other copper line on the compressor is returning from the freezer box to the compressor. It should be very cold to the touch. It should have moisture collection on it. If this is not happening you are probably low on freon. Other factors can effect your freezer. Make sure the fan near the compressor is running. Make sure the fan or fans inside the freezer are running. They will stop running when you open the door, so hold the door button in when you check the inside fans. Check also to see if there is a build up of ice on the inside coil. Your freezer should run a defrost cycle 4 times a day to remove the ice. If it has ice it will not run properly. If you can remove your product for 24 hours and shut the freezer down, prop the door open and the ice will melt. On restart if the freezer goes down to 0 quickly (30 minutes) it was probably frozen over. This may indicate a bad defrost timer or heater. Try these things.

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There is a drain the back of the freezer that is frozen. Your trickle of water comes from the ice that melts off of the refrigeration coils during the defrost cycle. You need to turn off the freezer, then remove the rear cover from the back wall to expose the coils. With a hair dryer, melt all of the ice. You will find a drain under the coils. Melts all of the ice in this drain so water can get out of the freezer. When this drain is clear, you can put everything back together, and your freezer should work normally.

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I have a 6x6 norlake walk in freezer. The door remained open for 6-7 hours by mistake and now temperature does not go below 15 degrees. The technician told me to replace compressor as slowly temperature...


I've worked on freezers for over 20 years and have never heard of a compressor going bad because the door was left open. think about a second opinion.
Also, has the cooling coil inside the box developed and frost or ice build up? If so, it needs to be completely defrosted. If you defrost it manually, use a hose hooked up to hot water. Kill all power and hose all build up off. Remove the sheet metal housing ends and be sure there is no ice inside there too. I would go in this direction first.
IN order to kill a compressor under this condition, something really strange must have happened as anything is possible in a refrigeration system. Good luck and hope this helps.

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Freezer Thawing Out


This will not cause a freon leak and it is possible that the door was left open, but to be certain that you don't have a defrost issue, follow the guide below to diagnose any problems. Also the warm walls are normal during compressor run times.
Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0047_3.asp
If your freezer cools but doesn't get cold enough, it may have a problem in one of several areas. To better understand the proper operation of a freezer, read about freezers in the How Things Work section of our website.

In a self-defrosting freezer, poor cooling often results from a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel inside your freezer. But if you see any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, ceiling, or floor of your freezer, it's a sure sign of frost build-up. And that's a sign of a problem with the self-defrosting system.

Freezers should self-defrost three to four times in 24 hours. But if a component in the self-defrosting system fails, the freezer continues to try to cool, instead. Eventually, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There's still some cooling because the coils are frozen. But with no air flow over the coils, the cooling is quite limited and the freezer isn't as cold as it needs to be.

An easy (though often inconvenient) test of whether the problem is with the self-defrosting system is to remove all of the perishable food from the freezer, turn the thermostat to Off, and leave the door open for 24 to 48 hours. (Keep several towels handy in case the melting frost and ice overflows the drip pan). This "manually" defrosts the freezer. When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the freezer then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of these components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer. To test this, manually advance to the defrost cycle. The unit should advance itself out of the defrost cycle in about 45 minutes.

  • The defrost thermostat (or bi-metal switch). This thermostat allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees (depending on its design). This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on.

  • The defrost heater. You can test this for continuity using an electrical meter.
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"


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1 Answer

Freezer not freezing food even at highest setting


If the unit is running continuously and not maintaining the temperature cold enough the system may have a leak. If it is NOT running continuously the problem could be in the temperature control.

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2 Answers

Master-Bilt Freezer doesnt cool enough


The only thing I could suggest is looking at the evaporator (inside coil / cold bit) and making sure it is not frozen over reducing the airflow through the coil. If it is then put it onto a couple of defrost cycles to clear the ice build up. Not sure exactly of this type but would assume you also have a sight glass on the external unit, you can check this to see if when running the sight glass is clear (fully charged). Another check is looking at the compressor and the larger of the two lines (suction) should be cold back to the compressor (this line is normally insulated). However I would suggest your best course of action is a good refrig. techy. Hope this helps.

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