The unit makes a water mess which seems the result
The unit makes a water mess which is the result of water passing right through the pad and splashing on the inside wall of the unit and then flowing freely down the inside of the unit and to the floor.. This is a new situation and I have had the unit for eight or nine years without any problem. The pad used is supplied by you specifically for a 550 model which , of course, is appropriate for my unit.The unit is connected to the warm air opening of the oil heated furnace. Thus its the warm air that goes through the pad and as soon as the pas is installed in its bracketand water is connected to the to the yellow plastic 90 degree fitting, and the water begins to filter through the pad I can observe water being blown right through in large drops and is not being somewhat vaporized as in the past. In addition to the pad, the plastic fitting, the bracket to hold the pad , the rest of the unit is solidly fixed to the side of the furnace.
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Make sure the new pad you installed is in the right position. The pad is marked with a black dot about the size of a quarter. This end should be up for proper water flow through the pad.I fwater flow is being restricted at the pad the vibrating nosie that you are hearing is the dry portion of the pad vibrating agaist the platic housing of the humidifier. This noise stops once the pad has absorb enough water in this area of the pad.
Well, let's see what service the unit has had in its 6 or 7 years of working--
When was the Humidifying pad last changed? These usually have to be changed every year-- to get good performance from the humidifier... So-- Have you looked inside the large door?-- what does the pad look like?
When the furnace is running, you should be able to open the humidifier door, and look in, (Air should be sucking INTO the door as you open it, if the unit is properly mounted in the return air duct work..) and if the humidistat is calling -- the motor should be turning the big wheel, and moisture is being added, as the wet surface is exposed to the air returning to the furnace. What do you see?
There is also a water sump, filled by a float valve-- is that valve admitting water into the sump? Is the pad wicking up this water, and rotating into the air stream?
That pad is easily changed-- your hard ware store probably has replacement pads-- they can be sewn back on to the wheel, after removing the old one.
It is a bypass humidifer the pad in it should last a couple of years, the water runs over the pad and air pulls moisture off the pad. Putting it into the home. Make sure the damper is open for proper air flow.
Yes a new valve seems in order. and yes having the valve on the cold side would create less build up in the filter pad so long as your water dose not come in at 37 degrees. but, I think you have it right.
Hello,All the pads have a protectant(white) coating because the pad is aluminum and would rot out fairly quickly from getting wet.The slime is bacteria(fungus) not from the coating that forms from stagnant (sitting) water.Make sure the unit is draining out dry after each cycle.With the pad out pour vinegar OR bleach & water (10:1) to kill the mold in the drain pipe.Do not clean the pad at all ,it gets replaced.They sell an inexpensive wet floor alarm at the store that makes noise when wet.
Check the drain to make sure its clear and that the tray is properly aligned with the drain of the housing. Also check how much water is being fed to the unit sometimes you have too much and it is blown off the pad. Just a personal opinion I have never installed a humidifier on the front of a furnace for this reason. I hope this helps
I had the same problem with my Holmes HM5601 humidifer unit - right out of the box. I almost returned the unit to the store, but was able to figure-out the problem. Not enough water had been filling the heating section (where that black knob-like protrusion is) and the lack of enough water had caused the unit to shut-off soon after plugging it in. The problem is in valve at the bottom of the water tank! The valve is a factory defect. It needs to open more when you sit the water tank onto the base so water fills the reservoir. I had solved the problem by going to the hardware store and purchasing some small, rubber pads or feet. These rubber pads are the type used to place under things where you want to protect a table-top from being scratched or you want the item not to slide too easily on a table-top. These rubber feet or pads have an adhesive on the bottom of them. Find the size that matches the diameter of the valve stem on the bottom of the water tank. Once installed, the valve should open and close with your finger without the rubber pad interferring with the operation of the valve. The pad, if installed properly, makes contact with the water reservoir base when you placed the water tank down onto that base. The valve open a bit more allowing water to pass-thru and fill the water reservoir. Water fills the heating section as needed and the unit runs perfectly after! The round rubber pad I had used was about an 1/8 inch thick and 1/2 inch in diameter.
I've been working on the Aprilaire 110 unit today, after encountering the same problem. Here's how I fixed it: First, with the humidistat turned to 0%, I turned off the water supply saddle valve all the way (all the way to the right)--and then turned it back on all the way (all the way left). Still no water flow. Second, I slightly loosened the inline valve nut on the discharge side of the solenoid on the side of the 110 unit. Water began flowing, so I tightened it back up; and now the water flows freely. Conclusion: You may have some mineral deposit buildup in your lines, as I apparently did.