Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Washer works but water is all over the place. Please help.
Okay...my experience with this model front loader leads to the following possible problems:
CAUTION: UNPLUG the washer if you plan to service the interior. It is dangerous to have your hands inside the unit with moving parts and energized. Plug the washer back in and stand back if you plan on doing any operation checks.
1. Door bellow ripped or torn (this is the gray rubber boot around the door - open the door and inspect along the entire door boot. Including the areas behind the rubber fold where the rubber meets the wash tub. It is common for them wear out and tear. NOTE: Make sure the fill hose on the left-hand side of the door boot is fully snug in place. Sometimes it will come loose and leak BEHIND the door boot.
2. Drain pump or hoses leaking - You will need to remove the lower panel under the door to see inside the washer. Remove the three torx type screws under the front lip at the bottom of the panel. For easier access, place a small block of wood under each front foot. The washer is heavy so you may need assistance to lift the front slightly. CAUTION: Do not lift on the door, push on the door panel or control panel. If the panel sticks, slightly tap on the sides and it will drop down and come off. The pump is located in the front under the wash tub. Make sure the clean out trap is snug and all your hoses are tight and not torn. Check the drain hose that leads out of the back of the washer from the drain pump to ensure it is not cracked.
3. Air Dome hose has come loose from the tub - This will be a small rubber hose connected to a plastic piece (called an air dome) on the right-hand side of the wash tub as you are looking in from where you removed the bottom panel. It should be located behind the drain pump and mounted physically to the wash tub. The other end of this hose runs to the pressure switch, which turns the water flow off when the washer tub fills to the approriate level. If this hose comes off, the washer will start to leak on the FILL cycle and will not shut off. I don't think this is what you are talking about, but it is still worth a look since you have the panel opened.
4. Tub seal leaking or tub cracked - These would be the most undesirable of all possible problems because it would require the removal of the entire wash tub in order to correct. Inspect the wash tub seam and make sure there's no water coming from around the tub.
I hope this gives you a few possible items to work with. Inpsect the washer interior when you get the panel off and post back if you can determine where the leak is coming from.
HELPFUL HINT: Put the washer into diagnostics mode if you plan to leak test. At the control panel select DRAIN/SPIN, NO SPIN and press any key under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the SAME key, however). "C00" will be displayed on the operator console, and you will hear the door latch engage. The washer will run through a series of tests by filling using hot and cold water, checks all your dispenser features, tumbles the drum, spins and drains. This diagnostics can be stopped at any time by pressing the PAUSE/CANCEL button twice. The drain pump will come on and drain the washer.
I hope this helps you...
Posted on Feb 20, 2008
Twice in the life of my machine I've had the discharge line plugged. It should be the first thing to check.
1. Remove 3 torx screws on the bottom of the lower front panel.
2. Remove the panel
3. At the discharge side of the pump, there is a removable filter. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
4. Remove an amazing amount of change, socks etc.
5. Put everything back together and hopefully the machine will drain during the spin cycle.
Posted on Aug 21, 2012
What if it only leaks during the spin cycle
Posted on Nov 09, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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