Question about AEG Dishwashers

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AEG 7080 will not go farther than the main wash.

I have A AEG 7080 dishwasher NR 911 232 065.It completes the wash cycle, then all lights cut out and machine stops leaving small amount of hot water in the machine. You cannot re-start machine until aprox 1 hour after it has all cooled down. As existing it has 2 No stats I presume one is high level and one low level. I believe they have modified the thermostats to one only. Have obtained 899646 14 27 50/3.To replace R/H stat. Has four connections instead of two. Received no info on possible additional wiring. Have tried the outer terminals which each show continuity, but the fault on the machine remains the same.The L/H stat has three connections. Am I right in thinking that this is a stat problem.

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  • colinwitcomb Feb 05, 2010

    Glad I am on the right track. Can any one suggest how the wiring from the left hand stat (three wires) can be connected in to the new dual stat which has four terminals. ie I have two wires for right hand stat and three from the left but only four terminals.

  • colinwitcomb Feb 07, 2010

    I appreciate you comment, but as they have modified the machine to have only the one four wire stat. ( Which is the only stat now available.) How do I integrate the three wires from the left hand stat in to the new stat. ie four connections, five wires

  • colinwitcomb Feb 07, 2010

    Have already checked the pump it operates OK. The machine cut out I think is thermal, as all lights on panel go out, and you have to open the door to allow cool down, aprox 60 mins, before you can turn the machine on to clear the residual water.

  • colinwitcomb Feb 08, 2010

    There is nothing wrong with the pump. As my original message I think it is a thermostat problem as the machine cuts out and all panel lights cut out. The machine will not operate until it has cooled down. All I need is advice on how to wire up the only dual replacement Stat that is now available. Four connections but five wires from original 2 No stats

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4 Answers

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  • Master
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Drain line/air gap:--A clog in the drain line or air gap (if there is one) is the usual reason that a dishwasher won't drain. Often the problem is at the point where the drain line attaches to the garbage disposer or household drain line. If you remove this line, you can clear any debris from the hose or hose connection. Be sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher again.Pump:Your dishwasher pump ejects the water. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. You can reach the pump from inside the dishwasher, but first you need to remove the lower rack, the spray arm, and the spray arm support.
Look for an impeller--a round plastic fan blade-type of device that spins around. This is the wash impeller, which forces the water through the spray arm. Beneath the wash impeller is the drain impeller, which is similar in size and shape to the wash impeller. The drain impeller pushes the water toward the drain port. These components make up the pump. If any of the pump components are defective, you need to replace them.Drain valve and/or solenoid:Many dishwashers use a drain valve with an electric solenoid. When electricity flows to the solenoid, the valve opens and diverts the water to the drain. Sometimes the solenoid, or the diverting lever, sticks and prevents the dishwasher from draining or filling properly. Try to free up the solenoid to lubricate the lever. Otherwise, you may have to replace the solenoid or pump assembly. With these systems, the motor always rotates in one direction. When it's energized, the drain valve diverts the water.
Other dishwashers simply reverse the direction of the motor to drain the dishwasher. These units don't have a drain valve. Instead, there's a drain hose connected directly to the pump housing.Belt:--One brand of dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump. If this belt is broken or has fallen off, replace it.Motor:---If the motor isn't turning or working, the unit won't drain. First check to be sure you have power to the dishwasher. If not, see the section "It doesn't work at all." If the motor hums but doesn't turn, it may need to be replaced.
Some dishwashers are susceptible to getting stuck if you don't run them regularly. If you haven't run the dishwasher for more than a week, you may need to manually spin the motor to free it up. If the motor is defective, you need to replace it. Dishwasher motors can't be serviced.
Timer:---Part of what the timer does is control the motor and drain valve. If the timer doesn't work properly, the water may not drain and you need to replace the timer. This problem is uncommon.
Heating element:--Your dishwasher has an electrical heating element that helps to dry the dishes. If the element is burned out, the dishes won't dry properly, and you need to replace the element.
Drying fan:--Many high-priced dishwashers have a small fan that blows air or heated air into the dishwasher to speed up the drying process. If the fan is defective, you need to replace it.
Thermostat:--Some dishwashers have a thermostat that monitors the drying temperature. If the thermostat is defective, the heating element may not cycle on or off properly. If that's the problem, you need to replace the thermostat.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

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  • Master
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May be but have you checked to see what is in the pump that is restricting the pump out of all the water. This could be the main problem causing the heartache. Check the pump to make sure no pieces of debris is in it.

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

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  • Master
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Use the other set of terminals and try again.

Usually there are two sensors on the hot water heating element area. One will be a bi-metal switch that senses when the water has been heated to the correct temperature, and the other will be a thermal fuse as a safety back-up to cut out if the temperature goes over a set limit.

By the sound of it, it is the overheat thermal fuse which is tripping and needs replacement.

If you have information on a modification into a single unit, I would call the manufacturer to identify the pairs of contacts as to which is the normal and high set.

Alternatively - check continuity to find the pairs for each switch, then connect as is. Either it will work as expected, or the normal trip temperature will cut out the whole machine.

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

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  • Master
  • 506 Answers

Yes, you are correct. The thermostat is the problem. By the symptoms it is displaying this is purely thermal related. I have never used a for terminal thermostat before. I would imagine that it would be two sets of contacts that would open instead of one. I would imagine both thermostats are normally closed. No matter the case the thermostat is the problem.

Posted on Feb 04, 2010

  • David S. Feb 05, 2010

    The 3 rd terminal on the "L/H" stat is used to send a ready signal I believe. The four terminal stat is just going to be like a DPST switch. One temperature will control two contacts instead of one. two terminals each should be mutual continuity ( 4 terminals 2 terminals each should have continuity)



    Not having a stat with the ready signal may be your problem.

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