You haave either connected it incorrectly.make sure the ohm of the speaker matches that of the amp ..connect the positive coil to the positive coil at the back of the sub and the same for negative .then run your cables to the amp .you should only have one positive cable and one negative cable .this connection will create a 2 ohm connection make sure the amp can handle that load .prefarably using a 2 channel bridgable amp or 1 channel monoblock
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Yes....hook one up to the left channel and one up to the right.....once everything is wired up.....keep gain down on amp and turn stereo on.....turn up stereo with amp gain down to right before high end speakers start to distort......then while its playing, turn amp gain up about 1/2 way. close your trunk and hop in drivers seat....sound gd????? You might have to adjust level on amp and bass on head unit to taste.....Be careful though....pioneer subs are only rated around 300 watts continuous.....dont want to blow them...gd luck....
Just get 2pi amp pros at1200 watts. That way u have full control of the bass u need. Just remember to turn the amps down the subs are a little under rated. Done this myself and it is a great sous. There not a good pro sub but they will do the job in a mid size car
If your sub woofers are DVC 4OHM:
Connecting three together in Parallel/Parallel would make your amplifier run a 0.67OHM load or if connected Series/Parallel then you would have a 2.67OHM load.
If your sub woofers are DVC 2OHM:
Connecting three together in Parallel/Parallel would make your amplifier run a 0.36OHM load or if connected Seies/Parallel then you would have a 1.67OHM load and Series/Series a 12OHM load.
So if your sub woofers are really DVC, it would be impossible that your amp would be playing 4OHM. The numbers just don't add up.
There are amplifiers out there that can deal with 0.50OHM loads but expect them to be on the pricey side, but fairly so, because mostly higher end brands tend to manufacture them and are usually pretty good.
Remove 1 of the sub woofers.
If i knew what the subs where 4 or 2 OHM DVC and what amplifier you are using i would tell you how to connect them for the best possible result.
hope this helps
each amp has + and - and will go to one of the voice coils , for the other voice coil use - to + FROM THE OTHER AMP , SET GAINS TO FULL COUNTERCLOCKWISE SO U NCAN LEVEL MATCH AMPS TO HEAD UNIT . REASON ONE VC IS WIRED "OUT OF PHASE IS SO THE CONES PUSH AND PULL WITH EACHOTHER
check to make sure your box is securely sealed and that the box itself is not rattling. if not, most subs require a break in period where they can not be played full gain/full volume for the first 48 or so hours... did you break in your subs by paying it softly the first day and slowly turning your amps gain and receivers volume up the next couple of days. if not, it is likely blown
You need a stereo amp that can run 400amps continous, with an output of 4 ohms. These should not be too hard to find and they are getting smaller all of the time. Make a practice look on ebay. They give you pictures and you can check the dimentions first, so you know it can fit between your two deck lids.
The one sub that you described is gone, there should be no reistance at all when you push on them. It sounds like you got your gains set to high on that amp (maybe the amp is underated for your subs). When you turn up the gain to high your cause your amp to distort and it can get as bad as sending a pure DV current to the sub. That DV current will blow subs because of all the force directed in one direction.
If you think about it the amp takes a DC current and turns it into a AC current which creates the frequecy (rate at which it alternates) that alternating current pushes and then pulls on the sub keeping it within its boundries.