Miele KM 3474 stove top lights but turns off after 30 seconds
I have the 5 burner stove top KM 3474 with a right super burner which shuts off after 30 seconds. The other 4 burners ignite and remain on w/o any problem.
I have tried the following w/o any success
1). Swap burner unit from the left working super burner. 2) Cleaned the thermocouple with fine steel wool. 3). Reseated the knob.
I suspect the issue is that the thermocouple unit is not sending the correct voltage to the igniter unit so the gas is automatically cut off.
Miele tech support charges $170 (+parts) to send a technician out. There also appears to be no one local willing to touch Miele stove tops.
Miele tech support emailed me a repair manual for the KM 342 which appears to be an older version. The bottom plate of my KM 3474 has a "KM 342" label so mechanically, at least, the service manual appears to apply.
Has anyone had any success repairing a Miele stove top and getting repair parts ?
Re: Miele KM 3474 stove top lights but turns off after 30...
Does the burner attempt to re-ignite after it goes out? If so, it's probably the therocouple. If not, it could be the burner valve. Be sure the caps and rings are correctly seated on the burners and be sure to firmly press the burner knob down to start the flame.
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One of the switches that turn on the spark when the burner is turned on has became stuck so even when the burner is turned off it still thinks its turned on. It very well could be the one for teh right front burner or any of the other 3 switches. Depending on your mechanical ability its not too hard to figure out which one it is. What ya need to do is remove the panel over the burner valves so ya can get to the switches which slip over the stem of the burner valves and remove them in the off position and use a meter set to measure continuity and check each of the 4 switches when in the off position and see which one has a circuit (continuity) when off..when you figure which one has continuity when off that will be the one that is causing the stove to spark when off. Be sure to check all 4 since more than 1 could be bad.
BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO THAT AND CHECK WHICH SWITCH IS BAD BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE POWER TO THE STOVE
Interesting, I'm looking for a solution to a similar issue. Our new (7 month old) 30'' Wolf Range has this issue. When both front burners are light, the back burner's electronic starter begins to click, but only when you put a pan on the front left burner. I believe the iron/steel in the pan is causing a magnetic field thats starting the rear burner to go off.. just don't know.. will report back after the repair person comes.
It seems like one of your burners is clogged. You made need to use some oen cleaner and a small toothbrush to clean the burner. If the problem occurs with all the burners, then you have a blockage in the gas supply line. you willm have to take it apart at the stove and clear it out. Check the main gas connection and at the burner(s) to spot the debris clogging. Make sure to shut your gas valve off behind the stove. Good luck... hope this helps.
Hello Leighvz, The rings around the burners should be cleaned periodically. Each one has a series of holes to let the gas come out and have to be set back perfectly or else you will continually have this problem. You can clean with regular dish soap an water and a sponge or rag. Also, If you put a pot or pan on the burner and it is too large it will cut off oxygen to the burner causing your clicking. The clicking only occurs when the oxygen supply is not enough. Hope this helps
It's the Switch Harness. Do not remove the stove and disconnect it from the gas. Turn the gas off under the stove. Take off the: knobs and the plate; burners; hxw screws. Pull burners out and disconnect igniter burners. Lift the top of the oven off. The Switch Harness is on the right, under where the knobs are located. Replace the Switch Harnes.
I had a similar problem and discovered that the control knob had fried itself, most likely due to liquid penetration down the shaft of the control knob and into the control knob electronics. Inside is a printed circuit board with resistor, diode and a rheostat.The surface of the board was charred beyond repair. To trouble shoot the problem, open the cook top and hook the burner in question to one of the known good control knobs.If it ignites, then it is the control knob electronics.If it doesn’t, then there is something wrong with the igniter. Note: The 2-zone Wok Burner had a different control knob that the other burners. To open the cook top, do NOT loosen any of the Phillips screws on the sides.Here are the instructions from the user manual: Disassembly Shut off gas supply, disconnect the manifold pipe, disconnect the electrical power. Remove pan supports, burner heads and burner rings. Remove control knobs. In the event that the hob is built in, undo the bracket clamps underneath the work surface. Lift the hob on to the work surface. Unscrew the venturis on the high-speed and super high-speed burners using a 20 mm wrench. Lift and remove the burner rings and burner base plates. Disconnect the wires from the ignition plugs. Keep the wire from dropping into the undertray by inserting it in one of the slots in the burner supports. Remove the three screws securing the dual ring wok burner. Remove the wok burner base plate. Lift the ceramic tray from the hob. Note: Each regulator shaft is equipped with a black ring. This ring may cling to the rubber seal in the ceramic tray. Check and remove the rings from the rubber seals. To order parts, call 1-800-245-8215, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST
lhs burner - problem is probably thermo-couple. this is a safety device which prevents gas escape if flame blows out.
rhs burner - you do not say if it can be lit by a match. if so then it is a problem with the electrode or the wire to it chaffed thro. if can't be lit by a match, then a problem with the gas valve which is unusual
not a diy fix unless you are experienced